As I’m sitting around hoping my motor decides to un-seize, I’ve been trying to consider all options.

looking strictly from a value standpoint what is the best option as far as motor. Truck is a 302 c4 with 9” 3.50 gears.

Since I can’t get the motor to turn I have no way to verify all fuel, ignition, and driveline components so I have some fear throwing a bunch of Money into the motor and still having $1000-2000 more in repairs to get the rest of the truck in order.

All that to be said, what motor option would lend itself to getting the most value for money spent. Considering junkyard 302, 351(cheap but worth the risk of waisting time on getting a junk motor?), having the block rebuilt (do you jump up to a 347, heads, and cam as all that money would directly raise the value of the truck?), or run down a crate motor from ATK or blue print etc? Go for a factory setup for $3000 or jump to their mild builds which jump up to the $5000. Or do you spend $20k on a coyote swap? If your Hope was your 1 year old son could drive the truck in 15 years would that affect what motor option you chose.


while I have no intention of ever selling the truck, I do like to make somewhat sound financial decisions.

 

If you value your time an old car or truck is never a solid financial move. It is enjoyable though so finances are a very individual situation.

​​​​​​Coyote sways can be done for much cheaper than 20k but it is expensive and time consuming.

Turn key crates are a great way to avoid hassle and have a good running truck.

Cheapest alternative if buy a running donor. Get a vehicle with a running engine and take everything you need and part out the donor. A donor helps with all the small things that add up. The small stuff will cost you. I usually figure in 500-1000 in small stuff for any decent sizes project. A lot of people don't figure this in because they have the small stuff in there garage but it was purchased or removed from a vehicle (took time) at some point.
My 2 cents. Good luck.

 

I really like the 302. Seeing as the truck is set up for it stick with it. Upgrade to the 5.0 and a more modern automatic with overdrive. My 2 cents.

 

Should have added donor to the list. Since it needs a new bench seat, and tires even that may be the way to go. If I was trying to hunt down a donor, just locate the newest f150 with a 302/351 and call it good, or should I run down a 5th gen f100 to have additional parts? Just worry about replacing 50 year old parts with more 50 year old parts. But if I could pick up a few trim pieces etc that would be nice.


@Lrrr-RulerOfOmicronP - while I know this isn't a retirement plan truck and fortuneately my labor is extremely cheap. I'm more curious to if you spend $3000 a reconditioned stock crate motor with 200hp how close to $3000 does the value increase. In the same way if I jump up to a $5000 heads/cams/intake motor with 300hp would the value go up closer to $5k or worse?

 

I would try to find a 94 or newer donor with 351W (5.8L) then swap on a carb intake and vacuum distributor and swap all the accessories from your 302 onto it. It will even bolt up to your existing transmission (302 and 351 use the same bellhousing).

For extra power you could throw on a pair of GT40 heads and some 1.7 Ratio roller rockers and headers.
You should be able to do all of this without spending big money.

 

I have found money spend rarely nets a 1 to 1 return. The 300 hp will add more to the value than the 200 hp but I would be surprised if it was 2000 dollars. Now if you want the extra hp then go for it. Build the truck for yourself and enjoy it. Keep receipts if resale is important but remember buyers are usually sceptical. I bought a truck with a rebuild 390 and it started making glitter. The motor was rebuilt but still had some problems. Most buyers are considering this stuff.

It is like any used car. There is a range for it's value. If I was looking at a 1995 mustang that had a new motor I might value it on the high side of the Kelly blue book but if the owner wanted thousands more than the average value I would walk away.

If you do a newer roller from a donor and throw a cam and nice OEM heads 300 hp should not be a problem.

Even if I counted my labor at 5 dollars an hour I still would not be able to make a return on investment. I enjoy doing it though.
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I would get a later fuel injected 351 or 302 and swap everything over and get a new tank with provision for in tank pump. On the mid 90s trucks, the computer only runs the engine, so pretty simple.

Once you understand the EEC-IV and EEC-V, it is pretty straight forward. And much better than a carb and points.

My next engine will be a FI 460 from a 90s van, with trans. With my divorced transfer case, lots of options.

If you don’t care about keeping it Ford and want a Frankenstein project, a LS swap is about the least expensive. Say what you want about Chebby (I do...), but the LS is becoming as common as a small block Chebby.

 

Value is often tough to assign...depends a lot on the intended use. If the truck will be an occasional runner with freedom and desire to constantly tinker then a reman unit from someplace like Jasper Engines may be a good value. It'll run and comes with warranty but it will likely require constant attention and just won't be as satisfying as a correctly built engine. My experience with a basic reman unit was it ran warm (kinda hot), consumed oil, and ultimately died (threw a rod) after 5 years and 20,000 miles.

In my case, where I want a truck to zing up and down the interstate with some interstate travel and keep for many years, I now have a custom built engine. More upfront money for sure but less ongoing tinkering. My idea of optimum value is to find a fuel injected engine and have a professional builder go through it the right way and build it to your wants and desires. This includes torque plate hone, line hone, etc, with modern ring packs, dialed in compression, etc In other words, do it right and do it once if you're going to keep it many, many years.

 

Get it up and running asap., i.e. used, good running, replacement 302ci motor.
Then you can contemplate everything else while you have a running, driving truck.

 

Just my 2 cent worth. First step is to forget about financial value and don't let that drive what you do with the truck. If you are looking to build something for your son to drive in 15 years its going to be more about sentimental value than financial value.

If you want to fix it now and last 15 years, avoid the junkyard motor, go with something new and fresh.

Your truck is already setup for a Windsor engine. A 302 or 351 based engine will bolt right in place of whats there now and use all the same accessories. As far as you are aware your fuel, ignition, and driveline components are all perfectly fine. Most of the fuel system and ignition components are common replacement or wear items anyway.

If I were in your boat I'd probably go with something 351 based. I'd also plan to so some other upgrades over the next 15 years. Maybe a newer transmission, fuel injection system, etc...

 

First off, sometimes the 302 accessory brackets won't fit a 351W. If the bracket also mounts to the head. The 351's longer stroke gave it a taller deck height. Which raises the head farther from the water pump.
If it were me, I would rebuild a donor vehicle's 351w. 2X 65ford. This way you get brackets and all the small stuff. Plus cubic inches. I would keep it carburetor for now. There are some good EFI conversions out there. But they might be obsolete 15 years from now. And there is bound to be better ones in the future.

 

I agree with the others. Not only won't your truck's value increase by the amount you paid for it, but if you keep it for 15, 20 or 40 years, that money's almost gone completely except for the enjoyment it gave you.

The 302 is a fine engine, but I've always been partial to using the larger 351 in any full-size truck. Just seems more appropriately sized and torque rated for the application to me. You can build a 302 to be double the power of the original, but I still like cubic inches for the starting point.
For my Broncos, I avoid the 351's and build the 302's to suit. More than enough engine for me. But for the trucks, the 5.8/351 is my choice.

For the basic old accessories, we sell these two adapter brackets on the left of this page: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/catego...rd=351+bracket to adapt some stuff to the taller 351W engine.
For the ultimate (in my opinion) front stuff though, you buy your Ford Explorer 4wd or AWD from the junkyard just for the engine and trans, and if you're going to use a 302, just use the 5.0 out of that and grab all the front accessory drive stuff for the best setup Ford had.
The brackets mount to the head only, so fit 351's with just a belt change. The water pump is very efficient and can be changed without removing anything else but the belt (should you ever have to do that again that is), the alternator is an excellent side-mounted 130a 4G and the fan is kick-*** strong for air flow. Either the plastic version of the metal one, they rock.
And for some vehicles the extra room between the front of the engine and the radiator is a key reason for the Explorer front dress. For these full-size rigs lack of space up front is not an issue. But the fan is still kick-***!
Now that I think about it, you might have to modify the fan shroud to push it outward towards the engine to get the fan in proper position. But that might not be too bad of a trade-off.

If you decide not to go that route, the Explorer accessory drive is worth about $250 to Bronco owners all by itself. The engine, if in decent shape is probably $400-$500 or more in some areas. The trans is several hundred too, so you just got back your investment and then some on the $500 Explorer!
I'm running the full Explorer setup from EFI right down to the distributorless ignition and the 4R70W overdrive automatic trans. I'm lovin' life right now, but can totally understand too, those that don't want to go EFI just yet. Carburetors work well on the engine, but you then have to get those "added cost options" that were mentioned. A new carb and intake alone will get you half-way into Lrr's cost tally.

All that said, as someone mentioned a quick call to an engine factory like Blueprint Engines gets you back on the road with a strong engine and a warranty for probably less than it costs you to rebuild it yourself and in good time so you can just get out there and drive it.
They have a good truck engine package that lots of the Bronco guys are happy with so far.

Good luck whichever road you go down.

Paul

 

Gees I'd do this and I'd that !
Bottom line what is the basic plans you want to use the truck for?. Once you really figure that out an stick with it then figure out if you need 300hp to drive 35mph in a speed zone.
With all the push in today world of electric vehicle, I myself wonder about the usable fuels in the jn next 5-10 yrs to come or say in15 yrs. Today with this virus c-19 scare I have not seen fuel drop as low as it in 40 yrs for a short time of $2.37 here in ca. about 12 yrs ago gas was $545 a month+ this was regular 87 not many classic can run on that unless you know your to dee-tune the motor. And Yes later model motors can run the 87 octane as long as you have an 02 sensor to read the hot exh gases. And if you want to go with an OD tranny most likely you'll have change the rear end gearing to make the OD useful plus tire size plays into that to.
Just in today world keep it KISS
Orich

 

I would say your best bet is a 96-97 Ford Explorer engine. It has GT40 heads and you can sell the intake to a mustang guy. The advantage to the 302 is aftermarket parts are cheap and plentiful. They are easily upgraded to fuel injection as well. As far as resale value goes, forget that. You'll never get your time and money out of it.

 

Why not just pull the motor, put it on a stand and take it apart to see why it's frozen, first?