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First off, the headline is a bit misleading. But I had to get you guys here and that means that I couldn't put "HEI Distributor Wiring" in the title. I know how some people get about putting Chebby stuff on Fords. But now that you're here...
I am planning the distributor wiring for my DUI HEI distributor. I am hoping to use two of the factory wires. I believe the white wire going into the Duraspark module is the "Start" wire. It gives power to the module during cranking. I think the red wire gives power to the module during "Run". That being the case, could I use those wires together as the wires that activate the "one-wire" on the HEI distributor? What's the simplest route?
I am trying to avoid hacking up the wiring harness, and it appears I can get the replacement DS2 pigtail and use that. That way I can revert back to DS2 as a plug and play affair. I think using those together would give power the distributor in run and in start. Does anyone foresee any issues doing it that way?
I am assuming you have a 300 six? The diagram is below. You need to have the brown/pink and the white/lightblue together. You can see the factory had them together with splice S305. When I stripped my wiring out, I lost this splice and I had to take the two wires above and twist them together to feed the ignition.
I apologize, I usually put my vehicle specs in my post!
It's a 1983 F-100 with a 300 Six. I currently have DS2. That diagram looks like it is for the later EEC. My diagram would be more akin to this:
I have circled the two wires I would have going into the Duraspark 2 module. One is White and essentially connects to the 12v that activates the starter relay. The other is Red and connects to a key-on "Run" wire. I am trying to make sure that I have spark while cranking AND while running. If I connect to just the Red wire, I don't think I would be getting spark while cranking. It may still work, when I let of the key, the spinning engine may fire, but it definitely wouldn't be as quick.
Unfortunately, that presents a problem. I didn't realize that the White wire was shared with the ignition relay until I went and looked at this diagram. Meaning if I just connect the Red and White together and run them to the distributor, when the Red wire gets voltage in the "Run" position, I think it would keep the starter relay activated.
Thoughts on this? Any clue if there's a wire that is hot while cranking and in the Run position already in there somewhere?
You are correct, forget the red/lightblue wire. You could take the original red/lightgreen wire going to the original coil, and the white/lightblue wire going to the original module and twist them together. Just using the single white/lightblue might work, but you would get a reduced voltage during cranking through the resistor wire, which probably would not be good for starting in cold weather.
After some thought, I have decided to kick this can down the road for a little while. I know for sure that the DS2 system works, since it is on the truck and running. I'll at least use it for initial startup for now. I'll play with the HEI later once it's up and running well and revisit this thread.
Yes, twist the white and red together, Thats the way I have it on my mud truck. did away with the key switch and went to toggle and push button.
That is exactly what I don't want to do
Want to keep factory wiring where possible and add my own that way it can be reverted if need be... and simpler to deal with in the future.
My 1995 Mustang has wiring all hacked up from the previous owner and I haven't made it any easier on myself installing the Holley Sniper. My Sniper and fuel pump are triggered off toggle switches in the dash. Wiring colors don' match. It's just easier to deal with if I retain more of the stock wiring to a point.
After some thought, I have decided to kick this can down the road for a little while. I know for sure that the DS2 system works, since it is on the truck and running. I'll at least use it for initial startup for now. I'll play with the HEI later once it's up and running well and revisit this thread.
I can't remember what engine you have and what your situation is, I thought you had a computer controlled engine and wanted to swap in the HEI. If you have the standard DS2 system and it's working properly, there is really no reason to swap it out.
I can't remember what engine you have and what your situation is, I thought you had a computer controlled engine and wanted to swap in the HEI. If you have the standard DS2 system and it's working properly, there is really no reason to swap it out.
Couple of reasons for getting it.
1. Easier to setup timing control with Holley Sniper and HEI Distributor.
2. Easier to lock out
3. Until I get the Sniper, easier to recurve for use with the carb.
4. Modules are at every parts store in the nation.
5. Removes a lot of wires, plus the box on the fender for cleaner install.
Stock timing curve should do ok for now tho. It’ll get me up and running at the least.
1. Easier to setup timing control with Holley Sniper and HEI Distributor.
2. Easier to lock out
3. Until I get the Sniper, easier to recurve for use with the carb.
4. Modules are at every parts store in the nation.
5. Removes a lot of wires, plus the box on the fender for cleaner install.
Stock timing curve should do ok for now tho. It’ll get me up and running at the least.
I would just leave the GM HEI conversion till you do the Sniper as you just be rewiring it again. And if you are going Sniper you can use a TFI dist and then there is no locking anything out.
I would just leave the GM HEI conversion till you do the Sniper as you just be rewiring it again. And if you are going Sniper you can use a TFI dist and then there is no locking anything out.
I think one of the issues using the TFI dist is the shutter wheel has a different size on the #1? It has to be modified to use with the Sniper. That's more effort than using the $10 HEI lockout or even just making a small lockout plate with some scrap sheet metal. Plus, with the HEI, I can use an adjustable vacuum lockout to adjust the phasing.
I think one of the issues using the TFI dist is the shutter wheel has a different size on the #1? It has to be modified to use with the Sniper. That's more effort than using the $10 HEI lockout or even just making a small lockout plate with some scrap sheet metal. Plus, with the HEI, I can use an adjustable vacuum lockout to adjust the phasing.
Either way, I have the HEI now anyway.
IIRC the sniper fires on the leading edge ( when voltage is generated) and not the trialling edge of the hall sensor, check with the manufacturer but pretty sure that is when it triggers. Then the odd size vane for does not matter The TFI system triggers on the leading edge and not the trailing edge also, That odd one is for cylinder location for injector firing timing..
According to Danny Cabral on the Sniper forums, it has to be cut down to match the others... I don't actually know, as I've never tried. It was something I investigated at one point, as the 85 engine I bought to have rebuilt had a TFI distributor on it already.
If you go with the HEI it has to powered with 12 volts and at least a #12 gage wire. Probably the easiest way is to power it up through a 30 amp relay, and with the Ford solenoid “I” terminal for the bypass starting feed.
Someone on this site was trying to power the HEI through the pink resistor wire, the truck would run but would start losing power after a short drive.
If you go with the HEI it has to powered with 12 volts and at least a #12 gage wire. Probably the easiest way is to power it up through a 30 amp relay, and with the Ford solenoid “I” terminal for the bypass starting feed.
Someone on this site was trying to power the HEI through the pink resistor wire, the truck would run but would start losing power after a short drive.
You are correct, the HEI does need a full 12v, a resistance wire will not work. But the Fords do have a full 12v wire, and the TFI systems did run a full 12v.
I used to say also that you need to run a heavy wire for the HEI, and even a relay would work also. But I read that somewhere and just started repeating what I read. Since then I have been involved with a couple of conversions, and have converted a Ford myself over to a HEI module. I used a combination of the white/lightblue wire and the brown/pink wire together to get a full 12v in start and run, and it works beautifully, using the original Ford wires. So I am not so sure a 12 gauge wire is necessary.
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