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Noticed lately that my transmission will wind out a bit before shifting into second. Knowing that back then band adjustments were considered normal maintenance, can someone explain how (or point me in the right direction) to go about checking/adjusting them. Having a hard time finding a shop familiar with the cruise-o. Took it to my preferred shop and explained the situation. He told me he didn't notice a slip, but rather it seemed to be starting out in second gear. I told him to hop in so I could show him and he exclaimed :"Oh, you're supposed to drive it on the green spot?" He had test driven in second.
To be clear, trans will wind out a bit (at slow accel.) before shifting into 2nd. Only happens if trans cold at slow speed and disappears completely after a few minutes of driving. Just over 12k miles since rebuild. As with most things, I've found it's better to learn about what you don't know than rely on the "experts"
edit: some additional info. Have noticed that the shift points seem to be happening too early. Trans is in 3rd gear by 30mph. Wondering if this could bear any blame.
First thing to look at if everything was working correctly before is the modulator and the vacuum line running to it. Also make sure the kickdown linkage is adjusted correctly. At 12K miles the bands shouldn't need adjusting and if they were loose it would slip when it shifted.
Just pull the line off of the vacuum diaphragm at the transmission and check to see if it has fluid in it. If it does the diaphragm is leaking and you need to replace it. Those modulators can go bad for no apparent reason at all probably because they are made where English isn't their first language.
The C6 in my truck started sliding from 1st to 2nd, there was no fluid in the modulator but when I swapped it for the original Ford part that came out of it to begin with it went back to shifting the way it was supposed to.
First thing to look at if everything was working correctly before is the modulator and the vacuum line running to it. Also make sure the kickdown linkage is adjusted correctly.
Truck is at the shop so he can test drive it again today cold so I can't yet check the modulator. I do know the kickdown linkage is working as it should.
Originally Posted by Crop Duster
At 12K miles the bands shouldn't need adjusting and if they were loose it would slip when it shifted.
The C6 in my truck started sliding from 1st to 2nd, there was no fluid in the modulator but when I swapped it for the original Ford part that came out of it to begin with it went back to shifting the way it was supposed to.
What's the difference between slipping and sliding? I have what I would describe as a slipping between 1st & 2nd. Maybe I'm wrong in my splanation.
There’s almost always some old bastage around that knows the transmissions that today’s kids don’t know even existed. I’d start stopping in those repair shops that cater to hot-rodders and classic car owners, and go from there. When I had the yblock on my 59 done, I wanted a guy who worked on them frequently, and knew their idiosyncrasies, and a few easy mods.
If it does come to it the shop manual has some pretty good information on adjusting the bands. Most of the tools are just sockets and extensions that pass through the sockets to connect to other sockets or screwdriver bits for the bands.
Truck is at the shop so he can test drive it again today cold so I can't yet check the modulator. I do know the kickdown linkage is working as it should.
What's the difference between slipping and sliding? I have what I would describe as a slipping between 1st & 2nd. Maybe I'm wrong in my splanation.
Slipping would be when the transmission shifts normally but if you try to accelerate the engine revs up. Sliding is a slow abnormal shift when the transmission comes out of first then takes it's sweet time locking up in second it's not slipping so much as it is just between gears. There are a lot of interactions going on inside of an auto trans that control the line pressure and where it is going to. But that modulator is one of the easiest to rule out because it is easy to get to and cheap to replace. Also most of the new ones are adjustable, but you need a chassis manual for your specific transmission. The tag ID's are listed in the manual along with the pressure readings so you need a 300psi pressure gauge on the line pressure fitting before you start adjusting it.
But before you adjust on it pull the line off at the modulator and hook a vacuum gauge to it, start the engine and make sure it is getting full engine vacuum.
Picked up truck last night. They adjusted the modulator, but said he couldn't get the trans to replicate what I told him. Oddly, as soon as I drove it off, same thing as before. Have used this shop in the past and they are actually the one's that did the initial rebuild. I guess the problem is that the "old bastage" ain't around anymore and has left his son to run things. Well, that story's been told a thousand times over, and we all know how it ends. It's too bad. The old guy really knew his s**t.
Anyway, on the short drive home, it actually seems worse. Reinforces what cropduster suggests, so will focus on the modulator to start. Definitely should get a set of manuals as has been suggested a thousand times over.
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