Crazy, I know. But I was just playing with Desktop Dyno, and even just a 50 HP shot of NOS sends the torque up to 700lb-ft at a low RPM. this sounds like a good way to get a 3/4 ton truck down the strip and quik.

I've got this vision of me in the 67 with a straw hat and some hay in the bed going to the strip on Friday nights to baffle the ricers :-)


What are the risks here? Other than destroying my transmission.

Anybody running NOS on an FE?

Edel makes a complete but simple kit for square bore carbs for about $350...cheap compared to what I got in the motor.

 

I would run it a couple times before deciding if you need more power Greg but from what you have I would say a little nitrous should not hurt the engine. You should be good for a 200HP plate shot if you set it up CORRECTLY. They won't let you keep hay in the back dude. Don't ask how I know. It would be funny though. You are going to need to have a C6 professionally built for you if you are going to turn that much. The stock input shaft can't handle it. You need anti - balooning plates in the torque converter or it will over swell.

 

Thanks for the tranny info. That's deifinitely something I have not researched much. I'll hav eto check around central Texas to see if anybody knows what to do. NOS is definitely not on the short lterm list. I have to get it all put together and broke in.


It just looks like a possibility later, if I want that extra boost if I go to the track. I never realized how much it does for te torque.

 

Well gtex I live in texas actually in Round Rock I plan on playing with NOS once I get my truck back together. HAve to let you now but it might be a while!1

 

Are you driving this thing yet Greg? Or is it still in the Test bed? You've gotta post some video on your site man.

 

Still in the test bed :-) I was going to do the body swap this weekend but I'm moving slow. Actually, I decided to finish this project my shop needed some help. I bought 2 big tool chests and an AC/Heat unit.

None of this helps me do the body swap, but I wanted to get my shop more organized. I may still go for the swap tomorrow if I can round up some help.

You can bet as soon as it's rolling and I feel that it is reasonably well tuned, I'll get a rear wheel dyno.

 

Gtex, you can, but be carefull with how much. If I remember your build correctly, you're going to have 550 Lbs-ft of torque without any helpers. Thats great. But when you get up to the 625-650 lbs-ft level of power, life expectancy of the engine goes down. The FE blocks we have now can live at just under 600 Hp almost forever. But when you start getting above that, the main caps start wiggling in their registers. Correctly installed studs help some. But the more power you add, the more the caps move, and the less long the engine will last. Wiggling maincaps are one of the reasons lots of FE builders (like me ) like to run plenty of clearance on the mains. If the caps move enough under the block that the main journal makes contact with the bearing........your engine is going to be in pieces. That is why Ford started using the crossbolts, back in......'63 ? IIRC. Aftermarket cross bolts are available, but most of us don't need them. Our friend 'Shoe' is working on a girdle that ties #2,3 and 4 together, I believe he has N2O experiments in mind. If you stay under the 600 mark, you should'nt need any fancy stuff, but as you have mentioned, N2O adds torque in huge amounts at low rpms. I have seen several pictures of FE blocks that were split open at any where from 700-850 Hp, they all held together for a few runs, then, BOOM ! I think you'll have more than enough power to thoroughly embarass the ricers without any boosters. I'm thinking traction might be your biggest concern. DF

 

If I were to do something, it would be very conservative. Like I said, in the 50 HP shot range. I was just surprised that it added 100+ lb-ft of torque even at low RPMs. It would just be to push the truck through the air a bit harder well after the launch....Maybe I need a big Aluminum Spoiler to add 100 HP and some downforce, some stickers as well (actually I have a huge collection of stickers from buying all of these peformance parts, I could probably cover half the truck:-)

I realize that traction will be difficult. I'm thinking I'll have aset of the biggest stickiest drag tire I can fit at the ready as well as a locker (probably ARB for accomodating the street). The tranny will probably be the first victim. What gives in a C6? Am I likely to tear up anytihing that can't be rebuilt in the tranny?

 

The stock input shaft isn't weak but it can be broken. I made the drum that the band wraps around explode in mine once. You can talk with jay at broaderperformance.com and he can help you out a lot. I would wait until the RPMS were above 3,500 before I hit the N2O. You will have no problems getting to the 60ft mark.

 

Hey there,

You will have traction problems! I haven't raced one of thes old fords, but my first truck was a 79 ch*v shortwide 2wd. I built a downright nasty 450 horse 350 (+ .060, forged crank, eagle rods, 11.5 trw pistons, comp solid cam, world products heads vic jr, 850 dbl pmpr) I blew the t400 up in a month and built it with 34 element sprag and full manual valve body/ 4000 stall. I also put a 61 ford semi float 4.10 power-lok in the rear w/slapper bars. This truck was the lightest it could be at 4000 pounds. I took the sadle tanks off and built a 25 gallon unit as far back in the framerails as it could sit and pulled as much weight off the front as I could. I found one of the biggest hp adders was disconnecting the power steering pump at the strip. Even with slicks on it first gear would never hook. with the turbo-action valve body hitting 2nd or 3rd above 7500 would kick me sideways. I replaced all the bushings in the suspension and put drag shocks on it. That helped alot. My best was a 13 flat @ 105. which would still slaughter any ricer on the street and take most 5.0 mustangs. I think you won't have enough traction without nitrous to even think about adding it. My friend built an identicle motor and he dynoed 460 @ 8100 and 430 ft/lbs @ 4000. With all that fe torque you'll have I'm guessing tirespin's gonna be a problem. I've always wanted to see someone put electromotive tech3 on an FE. I've got it on my mustang and it's amazing. The $3500 pricetag scares alot of people, but it tweaks every bit of power out of an engine, it has the best rev limiter and you can even add traction control to it.

 

Slap in a four speed Autos seem to get trashed too quick even with stock motors. Find one of the dana 70 rearends for your massive FE, and some way to strenghten the slip-yolk thing... It gets loose pretty fast under lots of stress. Get the larger diameter yolk+UJ's driveshaft, the little U-joints on the smaller ones are prone to getting loose. theres my o2

 

I can break my tires at 30MPH on 255/70 radials but it feels like I couldn't spin my slicks when they are hot if I had to. You must have had skinny or hard compound slicks on that thing. Econodrag used to dump his clutch at 5,000rpm and bring both front tires off the ground and never spin a tire. The Dana 60 should be fine in my opinion. They sell very high strength parts for it. A properly modified C6 is good for 900HP easy.

 

Here's what I plan to put on my FE. Truck is in progress and I can't wait to get it together.