I've got a gooloo that I've used quite a few times. Twice for me. Once for my mom, twice for strangers in parking lots . They do work. Bought a much bigger one or the truck.

 

What type of fastener would you use to secure a toolbox like this one to the bed?

This is an old 5th wheel-compatible tool box I got for free from a Dodge truck we were selling for a friend. Using a ratchet strap temporarily to see if I like it. I don't have a key for it, but with the tailgate closed, it blocks the T-handle, which is a pop-out and turn mechanism. Too bad the tailgate is no longer lockable with the camera install. I'd like to find a replacement lock for the toolbox at some point.




I was thinking of putting either pre-bulbed rivet nuts or standard rivet nuts in the bed at the four corners of the toolbox, and bolt the box in place on the rubber bedmat with 1/4"-20 bolts. Easy to remove by unbolting when I want to carry something that needs the space.




Interested in your thoughts here.

 

Have you wanted a track system in the bed so you can position anchors where you need them but found E-track too bulky? Then try L-track. It is similar to what is used in aircraft cabins to bolt seats down to. An L-track rail is also narrow enough to fit into the “valleys” of the somewhat corrugated bed. Many accessories are made to go with L-track, which is why I bring it up. One of these accessories is a stud that sticks up out of the track for you to bolt stuff down onto the track.


There many profiles too.



Stud attachment


Tie-down loop


The only downside is you need to keep the track covered when not in use or it fills with crud quickly.

 

@FordTruckNoob

Have you encountered any L track that has a radiused edge (see "surface mount" in your photo) on one side, and a straight edge (see "heavy duty") or flanged edge (see "recessed mount") on the other side of the same stick of L track?

Most that are straight don't have a kinky side (radiused or recessed)... but I want to mount some L track around the perimeter of a flat bed, and want the ramp benefit of the radius on the outboard edge, while abutting a lining material (such as PT marine plywood, or composite equivalent) on the inboard side.

I contacted one supplier, who said no. Then I got busy prototyping other parts for the bed, and your post reminded me that I still have this problem to solve.

There is not enough material to machine a radiused edge into a straight edge, nor cut a straight edge out of a radiused edge, without compromising the holding power of the track.

Surely I cannot be the only person who wants to use L track as a perimeter border to a rubber mat, plywood, or other liner material on a loading platform.

Have you seen what I'm looking for?

 

@Y2KW57 I can visualize what you are talking about but have not seen such a product in all my research on L-track. My first suggestion was to tell you to mill the flange down on one side of the recessed L-track profile but I see you have already considered that. You may have to resort to using a surface mount L-track profile and then fill the gap between the track and the deck with a T cross section trim strip. Or go with the heavy-duty profile and add a 1/4 circle dowel on the outside perhaps?

 

Both of your suggestions are excellent. You sure know how to make lemonade.

I still haven't decided on the material for the impact protection, the thickness of which would dictate the L track selection to border it with.

And I am still of half a mind to eliminate both altogether.

On another aspect of the same truck, I designed a Part A, and a Part B that supported Part A. Because Part B supported Part A, I had to design Part B in conjunction with Part A in order to establish how the two parts would interface in general.

Then I had to decide which Part to commit to first (I chose Part A), build one and install it, to establish with certainty a physical reference to finalize how Part B should be built to meet Part A.

But when I installed Part A, and tested it through the range of motion, including the positions where it would need the most support from Part B, I discovered that I overdesigned Part A, and the darn thing didn't need any support from Part B. So I eliminated Part B. But not before a tortuous trip through a couple of dozen design iterations of Part B, and even going so far as buying all the materials to build a couple of Part Bs.

I only share this because I think you understand this pain.

 

I do indeed. Such is the fate of inventors I’m afraid. At least it fell into the overbuilt side of things which is better than the catastrophic failure side of things methinks.

 

Depending on the weight you're putting in there, not sure of do only 4x1/4 bolts. Be a bad thing to have that floating around.

It is a damn cool box though. I may look into one.

 

Thank you for the L-track recommendation - while I don't think I will use it for this application, it's filed away for a future project. Definitely like the range of attachments to choose from.

Good point on 1/4" bolts - might be too light duty. The aluminum box itself is pretty light, but I need to remember the weight of gear that will go into it. I was thinking of using that size remembering the tailgate shock rivet nut I had installed, and that I could use the same installation tool. Let's go larger.