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How difficult is this to do for someone who’s never pulled any engine before? I’ve found a couple posts on here about it, but the ones I have they seem to be stripped totally down to the block before being pulled. Can I follow all the same step of pulling the front end off the truck and just pull the motor as a whole? The reason I’m needing to do this, is because my 6.0 has a cracked frame under the cab and the rear end of the frame on the drivers side is all rotten, but the engine and ZF6 only have 56k miles on them (previous owner was 85+ years old, never washed it, but did the drivetrain maintenance). So I’m buying a same body style and same year 6.0 truck out of South Carolina rust free, it just has no drivetrain in it. I just wanna swap my engine and transmission into this truck. I will also need to convert the new cab to fit the zf6 as it’s currently automatic. Can it be done without stripping the block down? I know I can pull it out the front, they were designed for this without removing the cab, I just again have only seen posts with guys stripping it to bare bones block basically.
You could look at the rebuild thread that the Smack Daddy just finished, it wont be too far down the list as there is still some activity. The process is explained. However since this is new to you, you might want to consider bringing it (them) to a diesel shop and have the cab pulled on both vehicles to do the swap. You will see smack daddy had/has some very nice equipment to do this this "out the front" procedure. I am sure if you bought this stuff, it would cost in the thousands. If you have fabrication capabilities you can build this your self.
People typically remove at least the turbo and up-pipes for more room and to fit a lift bracket where the turbo pedestal mounts. There is a $200+ bracket out there that will allow a motor to clear without pulling the front end apart, but I'd pull the front end off, it's not that hard. The biggest issue is handling the A/C system, get the freon captured, or let the intact system lay to the side.
Ford dealers have an adaptor that fits the front of the motor that allows them to remove the engine from the front, leaving the engine mostly together. That is how my dealer worked with the engine, but they still removed the up-pipes from the fully complete engine for more room.
Being able to tilt the engine forward while lifting and rolling out is the way to go. Turbo, intake, oil filter housing and y pipe/up pipes removed first to clear the engine bay. The AC will not have to be evacuated, look at my thread and you will see the compressor and cooler pulled to the side.
Being able to tilt the engine forward while lifting and rolling out is the way to go. Turbo, intake, oil filter housing and y pipe/up pipes removed first to clear the engine bay. The AC will not have to be evacuated, look at my thread and you will see the compressor and cooler pulled to the side.
thanks for the reply. I’m going to check out your thread after dinner. I have a shop to do this in, the engine hoist and tranny Jack, tools. I just don’t really have the means to pull 2 cabs and put at least one back on in the amount of space I have
A cab pull is not a necessity just a convenience. I have had this engine out on a stand twice in the last year and did it solo both times. Honestly, stabbing the flywheel to torque converter is the hardest part for me. Once you line them up and don’t force the 6 studs into the flywheel holes it’s pretty easy. I can have this engine out in about 8 hours or so if I worked straight through. The service manual is a great resource, it’s step by step excluding the specialty tools that are not all needed. Check my thread and HTM101 thread from about two years ago. I had a few guys on here to fall back on with questions and I will return the favor if you need my help.
A cab pull is not a necessity just a convenience. I have had this engine out on a stand twice in the last year and did it solo both times. Honestly, stabbing the flywheel to torque converter is the hardest part for me. Once you line them up and don’t force the 6 studs into the flywheel holes it’s pretty easy. I can have this engine out in about 8 hours or so if I worked straight through. The service manual is a great resource, it’s step by step excluding the specialty tools that are not all needed. Check my thread and HTM101 thread from about two years ago. I had a few guys on here to fall back on with questions and I will return the favor if you need my help.
thanks for the offer of help, I’m sure I’ll need it. I couldn’t find your thread on it? Maybe I’m blind lol. And you’re saying things about the torque converter during this, my truck is a ZF-6, will this make it any easier or no different really because the fly wheel still exists?