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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

2008 Ranger- Missing bad

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Old Apr 30, 2020 | 07:34 PM
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2008 Ranger- Missing bad

2.3l DOHC. I've replaced plugs, wires, coil, inline fuel filter, EGR valve ck'd, fuel pressure is 60psi idling, 55psi under load (and missing). I've got the intake plenum off looking for leaks. There is a lot of wet (coolant?) carbon in the plenum and inside the EGR tube. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
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Old May 2, 2020 | 12:24 PM
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Welcome to FTE.

45 reads but still no replies, so I'll see if I can get things started. Did the problem come about slowly over time, or suddenly after some event???

Scan for trouble code clues & post All code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.
Fuel pressure should be 64 +/- 8 psi, so is slightly below min specification when under load & should be checked out further, like checking B+ to the fuel pump while its running. We can do this using our multimeter on the 20VDC range at the in cabin inertia switch that's mounted on the passenger side foot well fire wall, just above the carpet line. Test B+ to a good clean unpainted, non rusty, or greasy chassis ground. I'd check on Both sides of the inertia switch & if you measure some voltage drop across it, try thumping it to cause it to trip (the little red post atop the switch will pop up), then push it back down to make a new connection position as there have been reports of some having voltage drop across the inertia switch internal contacts. If you do find voltage drop I'd replace that puppy as there was a recall on them in the late 90's but I don't remember the year range right now.

If all that checks out ok, test B+ to the fuel injectors at KOEO & KOER, to make sure it's ok & if not, check the battery SOC & if low, recharge the battery at a low overnight rate with your smart battery charger at 4 - 6 amps, so to get a more in depth charge..
I'd also check the alternator under load output. Turn on the head & fog lights, wind shield wiper, blower motor on High speed & push the cigar lighter in, while measuring B+ at idle & 2000 - 2500 rpm to see how the alternator output looks. Wimpy B+ to the fuel injectors, along with borderline low, just out of spec fuel pressure could cause a wimpy fuel injector squirt when you go at throttle up.

Were all those things you replaced faulty, or due for scheduled maintenance replacement, or were you just replacing them on a hunch???

A bunch of beginning trouble shooting thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
 
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