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Background: Been driving it about once a week since all the covid fun. Took it out to pickup some furniture, was about a mile from home noticed the IC was going in/out. IC seemed to have power, the digital display was working and trouble light on, all needle gauges at 0. Opened up Torque Pro the alternator voltage was high, I don't recall the exact #. Turned it off then restarted, the alternator voltage was normal (IC still out). Got it home and turned the truck off and noticed that IC and my gauges weren't powering down with the key out. The IC was displaying the battery, fault, and TBC error.
Used Forscan to pull codes grabbed the following:
B1352-20 (I've had this since I got the truck, heard it's usually nothing)
U1900-20 (can bus)
U2013-20 (compass module, though it seems to be working, I reset and it displays cal(ibrating) on dash)
B1360-20 (Ignition, why the IC isn't turning off?)
U2023-20 (instrument cluster)
I do have a SCT tune on for about 4 months. Did a fuel pressure gauge recently that's been on about 2 months.
Tested the batteries, spot checked the fuses (but I need to do a more thorough check). I also need to do a more thorough check under the dash and in the engine bay to look for frayed wiring etc.
I was thinking just a dead Instrument Cluster but does that explain the ignition issue with B1360? any suggestions on what/where to check are welcome.
I think I'm going to replace it with a LN, I guess the high voltage could have damaged the IC even with fuses? My concern right now if it's just the IC that's dead, or something is wrong with the ignition too. Other possible electrical problems too.
Why not test it first before throwing parts at it? I’d also check batteries or have them load tested and look at the battery cables and ALL connections,
Why not test it first before throwing parts at it? I’d also check batteries or have them load tested and look at the battery cables and ALL connections,
I was planning on doing the alternator anyways. I tested the batteries already, they are fine. I will double check the cables.
I was planning on doing the alternator anyways. I tested the batteries already, they are fine. I will double check the cables.
I am bad about that too. I’d rather buy new everything and have peace of mind. I have the L-N and love it. The first one went bad after about 30k and L-N replaced it even though it was out of warranty. Upgrade cables, you can look up what Jack (toomanytoys) has written up on them.
I also ran the ForScan IC self test with no errors.Going to test the connectors on the IC but need to get a back probe. The ignition/tumbler looks okay but I have no experience with it. Open to suggestions...
Tested the alternator on truck and took it to advanced auto, it's dead. I assume if the regulator on the alt is blown it wouldn't be able to ground the IC control signal, and you would get a battery light?
going to order the LN and I had the IC repaired already. Still getting codes for the compass, ignition, and trailer brake control message on IC.
Curious if it burned those out or the IC isn't fixed completely.
Well at least you eventually tested the alternator!
I wouldn't spend any more money until you got a functional alternator installed.
Totally agree, I probably should have done the alt first.
The IC was definitely broken though. Needle gauges worked when I turned it on yesterday with repaired IC (didn't work previously).
Now I need to do some searching about installing a pulley on the LN and look at @TooManyToys. vids.
I also wanted to get some copies of the wiring diagrams. I found a couple on google but I want to get the whole set of service manual/wiring diagrams for my 2006. Is https://www.factory-manuals.com/ any good?
You can go either way with the pulleys, stock, or overdrive. Depending on the battery and temperature of the day situation, the interplay with the GPCM changes. The initial cold startup with the 230a and stock pulley gets an output of about 180a. Probably on a hot morning fist start a little lower, and that could calm the interaction.
Totally agree, I probably should have done the alt first.
The IC was definitely broken though. Needle gauges worked when I turned it on yesterday with repaired IC (didn't work previously).
Now I need to do some searching about installing a pulley on the LN and look at @TooManyToys. vids.
I also wanted to get some copies of the wiring diagrams. I found a couple on google but I want to get the whole set of service manual/wiring diagrams for my 2006. Is https://www.factory-manuals.com/ any good?
I was just looking for service manuals and came across this site:
There are other manuals to choose from and I cannot attest to the quality of the info but might be worth looking at.
So I just downloaded it and it was made for a service technician. Not step by step, with high def pictures...but a shade tree mechanic can muddle through it and will give you the "right" way of going about things. The work around is you have to change your computer clock to 2005 before mounting the ISO in order for it to run otherwise it craps out saying the contents have expired.
I wouldn't normally download something like this blindly but I was comfortable downloading it from the public google drive (zero threats found after scan) so take that for what its worth. But it works. And if you have 20 other Ford models in your garage you're in luck!
Thanks for the info @dbb1porter, I downloaded it. Probably will open it in a Virtual Machine or some other sandbox just to be safe.
I got my new alternator and installed it. Cleared the codes and they appear to be gone. The one thing that still comes up is the battery light on the IC.
Tested the batteries, one needed to be charged but shouldn't be low enough to trigger battery light. I hooked up my charger and will retest.
Haven't turned the engine on yet, kind of want to figure out the battery light. Time to take a look at IC wiring diagram again I guess...
The battery light tells if there is balance in voltage output from the alternator compared to the batteries post. If the engine is not running, the light will be on. The “battery light” is not really there to tell you if you have bad batteries, under voltage batteries, fully charged or undercharged. It only tells when there is an alternator output issue, which of course there is if the engine is not running.
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