I am very picky about how much play is in my steering wheel. My 2012 f150 has basically 0 movement before the wheels react. Perfect, just the way I like it. My f350 had over 2", not acceptable to me. After a 1100 mile trip feeling like I was driving a worn out oilfield semi I did what I have been doing for almost 30 years. Adjust the lash in the steering gearbox. First I checked the adaptive steering unit that most blame for the slop. O play nothing, nada, so that is a bunch of BS as I expected. Everything is tight under the truck as I would hope for a vehicle under 3k miles. The only thing left is the box. I have adjusted SD's and excursions from 2000 or so and 1/2 turn is usually perfect. In my case I only went between 1/4 and 3/8, hard to tell because it is a bear to get to. I had to remove the wheel well liner. 22mm nut and the inner adjusting bolt i used a 1/4 Allen, it was loose but worked. Now I have about 1/2" of wheel movement before the tires turn. Acceptable to me and drives MUCH better. If you try this leave the liner out because if you go to far the truck will exhibit memory steer like when a ball joint is bad and seizing up, it will not self correct when you turn and you will have to back the adjuster off a bit. If you have limited mechanical abilities have someone help you. It is no different than lashing a rear end except instead of shims you have a lash adjustment bolt. If you are doing it by feel the wheels MUST be pointing straight ahead as the boxes are set up with much more lash when the wheels are off center. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. It does work but if you don't know what you are doing find someone to help that does. Like 17oaks said this isn't too hard to fix it is just a truck. Don't listen do a dealer that says it is normal because it is just a BS excuse for loose steering. Do i think this contributes to DW yes to some extent. The next thing will be shocks to help with the chatter when you hit a bump. The Rancho 9000 were suggested by 17 Oaks and I will give them a try because of that. Sorry for the long post but just wanted to share what works. Cj

 

what year truck are you speaking of...or just a general statement?

 

mine is a 2020 but I have done this all the way back to.2000 superdutys and older trucks that i have owned.

 

some pics would be great

 

Adjusting the lash on a brand new steering box sounds like bad advice.

I’ve done exactly how you describe on several old trucks, so I’m not saying your procedure is wrong.


But bench adjusting the lash with a torque wrench is much more reliable. These boxes come from the factory dialed in. If you decrease the lash by applying twice the torque as was specked this will, in time, cause additional wear and you’ll be looser than you were before.

 

well here is my thoughts, the box is adjusted by torque wrench for the bearing preload. Just like a rear/front diff and the lash is measured. Lash is put into a differential so it does not get too tight and overheat then fail. Not a issue with a steering box. Are these boxes set up to a loose side of spec, was the assembler having a bad day? Lots of possibilities. If you are too tight on the lash the only issue you will have is memory steer like I stated. Unless somebody gets just plain stupid with the adjustment screw. These boxes "should" come dialed in but in my experience in over 30+ years of building and fixing stuff that statement is VERY subjective. My power feed for my upfitter switches should have been connected also, but it wasn't. So take this info for what you will but like I stated if something can be better I am not afraid to try and fix it and I was stating from experience what works and did work on my truck. Cj

 

I am terrible about that, sorry. And to be honest 1/2 the time I try to post them it doesn't work.. i understand mechanical things. They almost always do the same thing every time. Computers? Not so much. The steering box is bolted to the frame on the left side of the truck. You will find a 22mm nut with a stud sticking out of it. That is your lash adjustment. The stud has a Allen hex in the center to do this with. If you have a diesel you will have a rough time even seeing it! Cj

 

and as far as additional wear? Again you are NOT applying additional torque to anything, all you are doing is removing the excess lash out of gear mesh. If your steering is tight then leave it alone. Mine was not so I applied what I have done many times in the past. My 01 got adjusted at 10k miles and was fine last year when I sold it. It is tighter than this new truck was and it plowed its whole life. If anything would have worn a box out plowing would be it. Cj

 

When talking about lash we are talking about single digit inch pounds. That’s finger loose compared to finger loose. I don’t believe the Ford OEM assembly operation has someone doing this at random torque.


Again, I’ve done what you describe for years on old trucks. I’m just raising the question whether it’s a good idea on a new truck to make sure anyone who does this has thought it through. Certainly the first time I adjusted a steering box I read a paragraph and jumped right in without thinking of any consequences.

 

Doesn't the steering box shadetree adjustment, and all the other modifications, changes, work, disassembly, additional equipment, aftermarket parts, etc. that we do to our trucks, all fall under the above warning that is actually just run-of-the-mill common sense?

 

I've done this on many older vehicles over the past 40+ years of driving wandering W200 and W250 Rams. I always would lift the front wheels off the ground first, before making adjustments. This would allow me to turn the steering lock to lock to make sure that there was no binding going on after I snugged it up.

 

lash and torque are 2 different things. Let's go back.to differential set up. When you set the.preload on the pinion you add or remove shims (sometimes done by crush sleeve)to you get to 100 in lbs (guessing)of preload for the bearings. THEN you set the backlash for the ring and pinion gear. Lets say. 009-.015 range. THAT is what you are reducing in the steering by this adjustment. It has nothing to do with input torque in the gearbox, if you increase torque by this adjustment you are way too tight! The only reason for backlash in a diff is for heat expansion. A steering box has little to none and if it did things are moving so slow no damage will be done. You just get memory steer. Cj

 

yep. That.is how I figured out about having a bunch more lash when the steering wheel is off center. That would be a good idea for someone not familiar with steering boxes. The first one I tore apart 30 years ago was scary but they are actually fairly simple. Again why would anyone mess with it if their steering was tight. Cj

 

🤣🤣 what is common sense, where did that go!!??? Yes most definitely but I just didn't want anyone that doesn't know what a Allen wrench is to start monkeying with a steering box. Heck if you have a diesel it.is a royal pain to get to anyway. Cj

 

Unless Ford Changed Internals to the Steering Box the Adjustment on the Top Plate is for Steering Preload on the Shaft inside the Steering Box. It is Measured with a rotational movement and a Inch Pounds Torque Wrench. Can't Remember the Old Spec. If over adjusted (to tight) it can effect Steering Wheel Returing to Center after a Turn. It can also Obviously effect Steering Effort if over adjusted. When I worked in a Dealer it was rare to have to adjust this, but on a few occasions it was needed. Just a Heads Up. Hope this Info Helps.