Engine install
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 29
Likes: 2
From: Vancouver BC
Engine install
Hello all,
I'd like to hear your opinions on the sequence of my engine install. I am working on a 1967 F250 4x4 4spd/NP435 with the transmission currently mounted on the frame less the bolt on bell housing.
Which is the best way to continue installing the engine:
1. Bolt the bell housing onto the transmission then install engine or (assuming the flywheel/pressure plate and clutch are mounted on the engine already).
2. Bolt the bell housing onto the engine then install (assuming the flywheel/pressure plate and clutch are mounted on the engine already).
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
I'd like to hear your opinions on the sequence of my engine install. I am working on a 1967 F250 4x4 4spd/NP435 with the transmission currently mounted on the frame less the bolt on bell housing.
Which is the best way to continue installing the engine:
1. Bolt the bell housing onto the transmission then install engine or (assuming the flywheel/pressure plate and clutch are mounted on the engine already).
2. Bolt the bell housing onto the engine then install (assuming the flywheel/pressure plate and clutch are mounted on the engine already).
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
I've left the bellhousing on the transmission before(when just doing a motor swap). Not sure if it is better or not. It might give you a bigger target for alignment? You still have to stab the input into the clutch disc, so make sure that is centered properly.
I think it is kinda 50/50.
I think it is kinda 50/50.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,235
Likes: 297
From: Kenner,La.
Engine install
To me I always liked having the bell housing on the transmission. If it is an FE style engine I used to just hang the pressure plate on the pilot shaft with the disc on the splines then tighten the pressure plate to the flywheel after every thing is bolted together.
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 960
Likes: 10
From: Victoria (North Saanich)
One thing I found with my F100 installation - to get the top right engine to bell housing bolt into place (that is looking at the firewall) we had to do it with the engine side mounts removed to get the engine and bell housing low enough. Otherwise the back of the firewall/front of the transmission tunnel interfered with the bolt.
We then pulled the engine up as high as we could and got the mounts on the block.
We then pulled the engine up as high as we could and got the mounts on the block.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 29
Likes: 2
From: Vancouver BC
Thanks guys, all great advice. Sorry I forgot to mention the engine is a FE 352 as Kenny nunez did question.
Thank you all for your input. Always nice to have other opinions.
I'm getting close to a running truck which has been way too long in the reassembly. I will post pictures in a few months
when I hopefully turn the key for start up.
Thank you all for your input. Always nice to have other opinions.
I'm getting close to a running truck which has been way too long in the reassembly. I will post pictures in a few months
when I hopefully turn the key for start up.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,252
Likes: 113
From: Mandan, ND
I just pulled mine (1967 352 in F-250 4 wheel) for various reasons. I have always found it easier to leave the bellhousing on the engine, when possible. That is how I did the latest pull. Trans will be easier to install onto bellhousing, is my thought.
We will see...
We will see...
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Having a 4x4 makes it some what easier getting the input shaft into the clutch dics just by leaving the trans in a forward gear.
Then grab and turn the output shaft an turn it as your pulling the engine inward. I also use 4" long tranny bolts with the heads cut off as guide studs .
Once you've got the motor lined up with clutch splines screw in a 4'' stud in the an lower only to keep it inline as working the to together.
unscrew as needed.. .
Then grab and turn the output shaft an turn it as your pulling the engine inward. I also use 4" long tranny bolts with the heads cut off as guide studs .
Once you've got the motor lined up with clutch splines screw in a 4'' stud in the an lower only to keep it inline as working the to together.
unscrew as needed.. .
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