Parts
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 56
Likes: 3
Parts
Does anyone know if the wheel cylinder for the front drivers side is the same on the 350 as the 250? PN? I am putting in an order from LMC trucks but they only list for 100 and 250.
Second question is the line going from the oil pan to the pump is leaking at the fitting on the oil pump but only when I shut down, I have tightened it and it stops leaking for a few days then manages to start leaking again. Is there an o-ring or seal of some sort, I have been unable to find a parts diagram of mine anywhere.
I'm soon going to have to invest in a parts manual.
Second question is the line going from the oil pan to the pump is leaking at the fitting on the oil pump but only when I shut down, I have tightened it and it stops leaking for a few days then manages to start leaking again. Is there an o-ring or seal of some sort, I have been unable to find a parts diagram of mine anywhere.
I'm soon going to have to invest in a parts manual.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Welcome to FTE!
That sounds a lot like the external oil pump on 292 Y-Block. Yes, there is a rubber gasket. It looks a lot like a 1/2" or so chunk of black garden hose basically. It is crushed as the fitting is tightened and expands to form the seal. It has probably turned to stone by now. Overtightening the fitting won't help any, it's the rubber seal that does the work. A small amount of Permatex thread sealant will help keep any subtle air leaks from forming.
That sounds a lot like the external oil pump on 292 Y-Block. Yes, there is a rubber gasket. It looks a lot like a 1/2" or so chunk of black garden hose basically. It is crushed as the fitting is tightened and expands to form the seal. It has probably turned to stone by now. Overtightening the fitting won't help any, it's the rubber seal that does the work. A small amount of Permatex thread sealant will help keep any subtle air leaks from forming.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
Your "About Me" profile says 1964 F350, If this is what you're working on...
1961/64 F250 2WD: C1TT-2061-F Right & C1TT-2062-F Left .. Front Wheel Cylinders - 1 1/8" diameter / Obsolete
1961/64 F350: C1TT-2061-A Right & C1TT-2062-A Left .. Front Wheel Cylinders - 1 1/8" diameter.
Not the same, notice that the suffixes are different.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 58
To add to what Tedster said, over-tightening that nut will eventually crush the tube, at which point it will not stop leaking until the tube is repaired or the pickup is replaced.
There is a torque spec for that nut and it is far lower than it would be ordinarily for a thread that size. I don't recall the spec and I'm not going to guess and provide incorrect info. Look in your shop manual, if you have one. Get one if you don't. There's also not a very good way to torque it so best to know the spec so that you know what you are aiming for.
There is a torque spec for that nut and it is far lower than it would be ordinarily for a thread that size. I don't recall the spec and I'm not going to guess and provide incorrect info. Look in your shop manual, if you have one. Get one if you don't. There's also not a very good way to torque it so best to know the spec so that you know what you are aiming for.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 56
Likes: 3
I'm working on a 1964 F350,
Anyone have a part number for the oil pump seal? I tightened it twice as it seemed the first time it was lose, second time I was carful not to twist the line off but gave it about a 1/4 turn. I guess ill have to invest in some crows feet for my torque wrench.
I found wheel cylinders and some rebuilt kits at rock auto be here in a week or two.
I have been having trouble finding front shocks, anywhere that is affordable, I have been using rockauto and LMC because the shipping to Canada is not to bad, but nether list front shocks for a 350.
Anyone have a part number for the oil pump seal? I tightened it twice as it seemed the first time it was lose, second time I was carful not to twist the line off but gave it about a 1/4 turn. I guess ill have to invest in some crows feet for my torque wrench.
I found wheel cylinders and some rebuilt kits at rock auto be here in a week or two.
I have been having trouble finding front shocks, anywhere that is affordable, I have been using rockauto and LMC because the shipping to Canada is not to bad, but nether list front shocks for a 350.
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,067
Likes: 1,622
From: Seattle
I have been having good luck with the Autolite shock absorbers. Armed with the part numbers from the master parts catalog they are easy to search for. These are for the rear of my F250. F350 might be available, too. Of course, anyone might say old unused stock shocks are worthless, too.
Trending Topics
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
B4A-6698-A should get you started on the oil seal. Might be an updated # for that, I dunno.
Something about the metal insert, maybe @charliemccraney
can add to that. Thing is too some of the NOS might be dry rotted by now.
Something about the metal insert, maybe @charliemccraney
can add to that. Thing is too some of the NOS might be dry rotted by now.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 58
The Fel-Pro inlet tube seal uses metal sleeves, in addition to a rubber component. This design is more prone to failure right from the start and I've had one with defective inner sleeves, which prevented a seal. I've also used the Fel-Pro without any problems. As long as the sleeves are good and the tube is round, it should be fine but there are better options. Best Gasket, and others produce a rubber seal and that is the most fool proof. Do not use only the rubber seal of the Fel-Pro part as the inner diameter of that rubber part is a little smaller than the ID of a seal meant to go directly on the tube.
You will also need an oil pump gasket or oil pan gasket set. You will not be able to get the tube out with the pump or pan in place. One or the other has to be removed.
You will also need an oil pump gasket or oil pan gasket set. You will not be able to get the tube out with the pump or pan in place. One or the other has to be removed.
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,067
Likes: 1,622
From: Seattle
Sounds like one of the types of shocks used was same as the rear on earlier cars and some were same as some of the F500/700 trucks. You can get the details here. McDonald listed still shows the two in stock that they did then. You have to call to see if they still have them. Must not be a lot of aftermarket demand for shocks for a 50+ year old 1 ton+ Ford truck.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17849150
Hopefully they can help. Old shocks seem fine once you pump the air out of them which is simply done by actuating them a few times. As long as the seals haven't shrunk.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17849150
Hopefully they can help. Old shocks seem fine once you pump the air out of them which is simply done by actuating them a few times. As long as the seals haven't shrunk.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Chris-jack
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
9
Dec 18, 2005 10:01 PM
aerocolorado
General Automotive Discussion
7
Mar 22, 2005 07:13 PM