I have a 1964 F350, I have been restoring, it seems every time I fix one issue I get a shoe to the pants and find 3 more, luckily so far they have all been minor.


I was driving the truck this afternoon (around the yard) and noticed a small brake fluid leak on the front driver side wheel, just started today.There are 3 large screws on the drum any tips on getting these out. I sprayed them and the lugs with heat and PB blaster. Letting is soak a but more before I try again.

The temp gauge does not read, if I ground the wire to the engine it goes to full hot. I tried 2 temp sensors from Napa no luck, tried a different gauge won't work with the sensor but when grounded. Metered the wire it was good and the fact that it reads when grounded tell me the wiring is good. Any other idea? I'm thinking although they claimed it is the proper sensor it must be wrong.

I had rims made using original centers where the machinist strived to make them as close to stock spacing as possible. The truck normally would have 235/80/17 on it but I was able to get a set of 245/70/17 for free so I could get it off blocks. The tire is rubbing when at full turn to the left and hit the part in the picture below, if I turn the opposite direction about 1/2 of the steering wheel I get about half an inch clearance. Any way to adjust this so it stops prior to rubbing. Anyone know the name of the part with the split pin the boot was bad to begin with and now it is toast.


Rubs tire at full left

I can't find this part online anyone know the name. The boot is no good and the rubbing made it worse.


clears at 1/2 turn of steering wheel

 

What size is the engine, 292?

The temp sender (C3TZ-10884-A 3/8" -18) threads into an adapter that either presses in (C3TZ-10911-A 29/32" I.D. x 1/2" long), or threads into the head (C3AZ-10911-A 1/8" internal pipe thread).

 

That part is the drag link. There is no adjustment there, except to take up wear in the ball and socket. Steering stops are located on the bolt on arms on the backside of the spindles, but if you can only turn the wheel half a turn before a tire hits... You have other issues.

I've never had a single wheel F350, so I may be off here; but most everything from this era the drums do not slide off the hub, generally for the front on a rear wheel drive vehicle you would bolt off the front wheel, pull the dust cap from the center of the hub, pick the cotter pin out and wind the spindle nut off. Pull the outer bearing cone then pull the drum/hub assembly.

 

If you have 3 screws in the face of the drum they are definitely removable . I would pull the hub assy. with the drum, that way you can get to the screw threads with the penetrating oil and you'll have an easier time removing the screws. And if you don't have a manual impact driver, get one, they work great on stuck screws. Then you can never-sieze them when you put them back in. This will also give you the opportunity to inspect, grease and adjust the wheel bearings.

 

Here is the wiring diagram for the gauges;
http://www.fordification.info/tech/i...ng/1964_10.jpg
The temp,oil pressure, and fuel gauge all get their power from the constant voltage regulator behind the instrument panel. Do the other 2 gauges work properly? If not it could be that regulator.

 

Yes 292, believe it or not the original engine

 

Yes the other gauges work fine.

 

Mid Fifties has the drag link boots Its listed in the 53-56 section. I`m not sure if the boot is the same for the 64 but it looks close.

 

It did have dually's at one time but the previous owner told me they got stolen Vin shows dually from factory. Finding a set of dual rims is like finding hens teeth. I may someday swap it out for duallys but for now SRW. I will try as you mentioned pull the dust cap it was late when I put her to bed.

I have attached a image of the screws.

 

Perhaps my explanation was poor, If it turn hard left it will rub, if I then turn the steering wheel 180 deg to the right (1/2 a turn of the steering wheel) I get 1/2 in clearance. It only rubs at hard left.

 

The VIN has no reference whether an F350 has DRW or not. VIN begins with F35 = decodes to F350 and that's it.

 

I use the BFS for removing those screws.

 

Heat the screw until red, then remove it.

 

On my vin plate it shows F350, according to my book F351 was SRW.

 

MODEL code F350 w/10,000 lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating // MODEL code F351 w/8,000 lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.

Parts catalog makes no reference to either inre to SRW or DRW