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Old Apr 17, 2020 | 05:42 PM
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400 project

So my build started as a 400 full build... Molnar rods, Moldex crank, and Racetec pistons with iron heads.

Now it's turned into a whole other animal. TMI 444 stroker, aluminum heads, and a 6-71. The numbers are quite astounding that I'm estimating while only aiming for 7200 rpm. Wish me luck guys I've got 10k in it so far and I'm pretty sure I'm going to split the block when I lean on it hard. I'll post a few pics of my collected parts when I get home from work.

Just a slow little grudge build... Oh yeah 2 kits of giggle gas on top as well (real small maybe 75 shot each)
 
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Old Apr 17, 2020 | 06:01 PM
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Aaaand now shopping for a cam since I just remembered this thing won't like a 6-71... Recommendation? Heads are set up for flat tappet up to .580 but realistically more like .525-.550 intake side with boost
 
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Old Apr 17, 2020 | 06:13 PM
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Search under "blower cam". Lots changes under pressure.

Is this a race only motor?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2020 | 06:21 PM
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It "should" be a race only setup.... But I'll probably run it to work or something, Prosystems sent me a Venom VX set up for e85 with extra Jets and bleeds for e98 with I might get by the barrel.

Work is less than 2 miles. So it'll be out a bit for sure.

I'll probably need a pair of these carbs if I turn it up. Pulleys I have are 1:1, 20, 40, and 60% OD (58.3333%)
​​
 
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Old Apr 17, 2020 | 07:04 PM
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I think a 6-71 should probably be underdriven for a streetable engine.

What is your compression ratio?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2020 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 85e150
I think a 6-71 should probably be underdriven for a streetable engine.

What is your compression ratio?
It's not going to be street driven very much... TMI is estimating 13.61:1 and my numbers come out 13.862:1 (different gaskets) so it's pretty high. I'm looking at methanol as well but if I were to use the Lunati I have it'll bleed down considerably.
​​​​​
 
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Old Apr 17, 2020 | 07:56 PM
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You can't run an overdriven 6-71 on top of 13:1 + compression.

Where are you getting your engine building information?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2020 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 85e150
You can't run an overdriven 6-71 on top of 13:1 + compression.

Where are you getting your engine building information?
Who says you can't? I expect stuff to break when I lean on it hard but I won't know till I do it. I'm looking at some of the very very few facts I can find from TAD builders I run across that doesn't give their combinations away plus a couple nitro guys I have on FB if they ever post.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2020 | 08:02 PM
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Like I said... It's less than 2 miles to work so I might get a pull in while omw. It's not going to work every day but maybe once or twice a month if that.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2020 | 08:10 PM
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Good luck with your project!
 
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Old Apr 17, 2020 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 85e150
Good luck with your project!

I appreciate it buddy! Ill double check my numbers though but I think it'll hold. Also I'll look at a 10% underdrive pulley set as well. I'll probably need it when going to 10-71 and billet block.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2020 | 09:49 AM
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If I understand correctly your putting a big blower on top of 13:1 static compression. I don't think you'll make it to work the first time maybe not even through break in.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 09:32 PM
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LiquidCowboy,

I'm all about hotrodding the 400.... however....

I think "leaning on it hard" would actually include starting said engine. I'm going to go do some research and see how 13.5:1 looks in the forced induction world. Obviously you're on race gas or straight methanol. Are you going to run a fully filled block, 3/4 fill? Four bolt mains with a girdle?

i really think you would be happier in the long run to start at 9:1 compression and work up from there with pullies, nitrous, timing, etc.

Regardless, I wish you the best of luck!

 
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SDDL-UP
LiquidCowboy,

I'm all about hotrodding the 400.... however....

I think "leaning on it hard" would actually include starting said engine. I'm going to go do some research and see how 13.5:1 looks in the forced induction world. Obviously you're on race gas or straight methanol. Are you going to run a fully filled block, 3/4 fill? Four bolt mains with a girdle?

i really think you would be happier in the long run to start at 9:1 compression and work up from there with pullies, nitrous, timing, etc.

Regardless, I wish you the best of luck!
I have spare blocks. Starting with standard jackets and e98 with splayed 2,3,&4 with billet 1 & 5. I have a stud girdle as well but will have to mock it all up when rotating assembly arrives in a week or 3 to check for clearances. Im not planning on dropping spray on it until I get comfortable with most everything else.

I did do some shopping for blocks. First email was looking feel out if 5k would be near enough (eh maybe) for a billet sleeved unit. But I'll worry about that later.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 11:38 AM
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Honestly, I wouldn't be worried about the block per se, but about all of the other big money components that may get destroyed when something lets go. Forget losing a piston and a valve - consider the cost of losing the ENTIRE ENGINE when something goes... including the 6-71 supercharger.
 
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