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Well, I'm not rich but, it's all I could find and I wanted to stick to Ford specs. Now, the first tube was delivered smashed and the seller sent me another tube. So, for me, I paid $16 per tube. Let's see, you pay +/- $70,000 for a truck. But, $33 for a tube of grease that you'll only ever need 1 of is too much??? We all have our priorities I guess. And yes, $33 is ridiculous.
Well, I'm not rich but, it's all I could find and I wanted to stick to Ford specs. Now, the first tube was delivered smashed and the seller sent me another tube. So, for me, I paid $16 per tube. Let's see, you pay +/- $70,000 for a truck. But, $33 for a tube of grease that you'll only ever need 1 of is too much??? We all have our priorities I guess. And yes, $33 is ridiculous.
I can afford a $70,000 $44,000 truck because I didn't waste $28 on a tube of grease Nah...I'm just bustin' your chops! Like you said, we all have our own priorities. I just couldn't believe it was that much. A friend of mine is the worlds worst (or best?) when it comes to staying in spec with certain things. I poke fun at him sometimes, but I'll always go out of my way to help him track down what he wants, because I am the same way with certain other things in my life. I just know that a simple u-joint with steel rollers and a rubber seal isn't too picky with what grease it wants. Now something like trans fluid, coolant, or PS fluid, etc...yeah, I'll stick with what spec calls for. I bet the vast majority of SD owners don't even know you can grease them...at least we are!
Every chassis lube grease I've had in the past ends up separating to an extent, making a mess all over the grease gun and wherever it is stored. Even the small tubes take years to use up. Any suggestions on how to keep the grease from making an oily mess while stored, or are there some that don't separate while sitting over time?
Every chassis lube grease I've had in the past ends up separating to an extent, making a mess all over the grease gun and wherever it is stored. Even the small tubes take years to use up. Any suggestions on how to keep the grease from making an oily mess while stored, or are there some that don't separate while sitting over time?
That's a great question. The mess it makes is bad. I switched to Valvoline this time. Hopefully it doesn't separate.
ATC Crazy, I understand completely. I mean, the needle bearing is the same as those in a 68 F150 4WD, give or take. And in it we just used "grease". One grease everywhere. But, I'm a touch **** and leary of manufactures. I can see Ford looking at my truck when taken in for a warranty issue because maybe, I got a bad knuckle joint...maybe casted with a flaw, and they found the grease didn't look like the right color. They ask what I used, I tell them Lucas tacky, red. They say Sorry, warranty voided. Dealers (except my pot dealer) and manufactures I don't trust one quark.
(Oh, how's that Govenor working out for ya )
That's a great question. The mess it makes is bad. I switched to Valvoline this time. Hopefully it doesn't separate.
I agree, total mess. I responded so I can see what others have to say about a solution for for the mess. Keep the grease gun in the garage in TX, and the problem seems to be even worse.
Last edited by 12Farmer; Apr 18, 2020 at 09:18 AM.
Reason: Added a word.
The 450s have all the grease fittings... 250 and 350 only the 2 u joints discussed above.
I use the same high quality grease I use in everything from Harleys to New Holland back hoe.... NLGI 2. Either Valvoline/Lucas/even Amsoil... What ever is the best that Napa has in stock when I need a case or 2....
U joints should be done by hand so you hit them gently. You dont want to pump it in until its squirting out everywhere because youll damage the boot. I squeeze the gun gently until I hear or see the first hint of grease exiting. I grease them with every oil change. Only takes a little.
While were at it I intend to Replace everything greasable that wears out... with a greasable replacement.
I have some big electric motors that need grease. They really do need special grease. The additives that make the high pressure greases good for a chassis make it melt in the electric motor. The worst thing you can do is over grease these because it goes right into the motor.
Things like U joints... and sealed bearings have seals that you dont want to blow out with too much grease.
Things like pivots on machinery have bushings... these are not sealed... you pump them until clean grease shows.. if you pump up a U joint like that youll make a mess and damage the seal.
Interesting that the dealership someone mentioned... didnt know the U joints had fittings???? Sure makes me want to go there for service...
By the way... $29 for a tube of grease is a complete rip off... Fords not making it. They are re-branding one of the others... And Id bet its not the top of the line.
I just checked Amazon.. The highest priced Valvoline full synth NLGI 2 is $24 a tube. Most high quality grease is well under $10.
$11.87 is what I paid for my tube of Valvoline NLGI #2 GC-LB lithium complex EP grease. Oh, that was for TWO tubes! This is the same lube spec that my RV trailers hubs call for. Win-win.
I use Valvoline Ford-Lincoln-Mercury moly fortified multi-purpose grease. Have used it for years and will keep using it on the 19. Even though I store my grease gun on my drip pan, just in case it makes a mess, I have noticed that this grease does not have the leaking/drip mess like some of the others I have tried.
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