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I am upgrading my system and scrapping the ****ty B&O. The Zen A-B device is touchy with the ground and recommends grounding amp to battery. I am using a bus bar on my amp rack behind the seat, 0 gauge run to the battery, 4 gauge on the rack to amps. My question is: Is it better to add another 0 gauge ground to the body from the bus bar?
Last edited by robdog6942; Apr 11, 2020 at 10:48 PM.
Reason: More appropriate title
I came through the floor right by g403, that would be a pretty easy point to get to with the bus bar. Again is there an advantage to adding this ground from the frame to the bus bar that is already grounded at the battery?
Originally Posted by h20camper
I would agree with going to the frame. On these truck to the body, no. If coming from the back seat area, G403 might be convenient.
Anyone know if there is an advantage to adding a different ground point besides the battery to the buss bar?
TIA
Originally Posted by robdog6942
I came through the floor right by g403, that would be a pretty easy point to get to with the bus bar. Again is there an advantage to adding this ground from the frame to the bus bar that is already grounded at the battery?
I am upgrading my system and scrapping the ****ty B&O. The Zen A-B device is touchy with the ground and recommends grounding amp to battery. I am using a bus bar on my amp rack behind the seat, 0 gauge run to the battery, 4 gauge on the rack to amps. My question is: Is it better to add another 0 gauge ground to the body from the bus bar?
fwiw.... I tried using the chassis for a ground point for my aux tank fuel tank pump and it didn't work out so well. So I ran a dedicated ground from the battery to the pump. I think my lesson learned was that the chassis isn't such a great grounding point.
Not sure why you think you need to ground the bus bar to the chassis if it is already good ground. But most of this is over my head anyway. I hope everything works out well for your project.
fwiw.... I tried using the chassis for a ground point for my aux tank fuel tank pump and it didn't work out so well. So I ran a dedicated ground from the battery to the pump. I think my lesson learned was that the chassis isn't such a great grounding point.
Not sure why you think you need to ground the bus bar to the chassis if it is already good ground. But most of this is over my head anyway. I hope everything works out well for your project.
I've always heard to keep amp grounds as short as possible. With the bus bar grounded to the battery, I'm just thinking maybe adding another "shorter" ground point may be advantageous for the amplifiers??
For my 2 amps (300w + 600w), I used the official ground points (G301 and G302) on the rear cab wall. I only needed 4awg gound wires, but these have worked fine for my install. Both runs were 3ft or less.
When I did my system, I ran both hot and ground from the battery all the way to behind the rear seat. If you're already running everything for the amp then what's one more wire?