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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 10:21 PM
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Audio system ground question

I am upgrading my system and scrapping the ****ty B&O. The Zen A-B device is touchy with the ground and recommends grounding amp to battery. I am using a bus bar on my amp rack behind the seat, 0 gauge run to the battery, 4 gauge on the rack to amps. My question is: Is it better to add another 0 gauge ground to the body from the bus bar?
 

Last edited by robdog6942; Apr 11, 2020 at 10:48 PM. Reason: More appropriate title
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Old Apr 11, 2020 | 10:28 PM
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You should change the thread title, maybe that will help get the attention of those who can help answer the question.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2020 | 09:56 AM
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Is there a reason why nobody recommends going to the frame?
 
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Old Apr 12, 2020 | 10:05 AM
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From: Lost in the Ozone....
I would agree with going to the frame. On these truck to the body, no. If coming from the back seat area, G403 might be convenient.



 
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Old Apr 12, 2020 | 10:41 AM
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I came through the floor right by g403, that would be a pretty easy point to get to with the bus bar. Again is there an advantage to adding this ground from the frame to the bus bar that is already grounded at the battery?

Originally Posted by h20camper
I would agree with going to the frame. On these truck to the body, no. If coming from the back seat area, G403 might be convenient.

 
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Old Apr 13, 2020 | 08:48 PM
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Anyone know if there is an advantage to adding a different ground point besides the battery to the buss bar?
TIA

Originally Posted by robdog6942
I came through the floor right by g403, that would be a pretty easy point to get to with the bus bar. Again is there an advantage to adding this ground from the frame to the bus bar that is already grounded at the battery?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2020 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by robdog6942
I am upgrading my system and scrapping the ****ty B&O. The Zen A-B device is touchy with the ground and recommends grounding amp to battery. I am using a bus bar on my amp rack behind the seat, 0 gauge run to the battery, 4 gauge on the rack to amps. My question is: Is it better to add another 0 gauge ground to the body from the bus bar?
fwiw.... I tried using the chassis for a ground point for my aux tank fuel tank pump and it didn't work out so well. So I ran a dedicated ground from the battery to the pump. I think my lesson learned was that the chassis isn't such a great grounding point.

Not sure why you think you need to ground the bus bar to the chassis if it is already good ground. But most of this is over my head anyway. I hope everything works out well for your project.
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Old Apr 14, 2020 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by traveldawg
fwiw.... I tried using the chassis for a ground point for my aux tank fuel tank pump and it didn't work out so well. So I ran a dedicated ground from the battery to the pump. I think my lesson learned was that the chassis isn't such a great grounding point.

Not sure why you think you need to ground the bus bar to the chassis if it is already good ground. But most of this is over my head anyway. I hope everything works out well for your project.
I've always heard to keep amp grounds as short as possible. With the bus bar grounded to the battery, I'm just thinking maybe adding another "shorter" ground point may be advantageous for the amplifiers??
 
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Old Apr 14, 2020 | 01:15 PM
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For my 2 amps (300w + 600w), I used the official ground points (G301 and G302) on the rear cab wall. I only needed 4awg gound wires, but these have worked fine for my install. Both runs were 3ft or less.

 
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Old Apr 14, 2020 | 02:57 PM
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When I did my system, I ran both hot and ground from the battery all the way to behind the rear seat. If you're already running everything for the amp then what's one more wire?
 
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Old Apr 14, 2020 | 03:30 PM
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Thanks for the replies, a buddy at the stereo shop recommends adding an extra “shorter” ground to the bus bar, so that’s what I’m gonna do..
 
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