That don't make sense to me because it's inside that controls where the outside skin lays...

 

This doesn't add up to me. Should the side of the door not line up with the side of the B pillar. Looks like the door needs to be shimmed out at the front a bit on the bottom hinge. Or the top hinge needs to be shimmed out a bit to rotate the bottom in.

 

The edge of the door should be even with the b pillar on the inside . If your door skin lines up on the outside there is definitely a problem . What else was replaced ?

 

Here's another couple of views.. I adjusted the latch in more and closed it up some, but I'm up against the weatherstripping tightly now. This is the original solid firm w.s. and I bought some hollow stuff at the Grand Nats last year, so that is an option. I talked to my paint guy and asked about hinge adjust to close the gap and he said he'd have to look at it closely first. But he's self quarantined till all the corona crap is gone. I might just try removing the old w.s. and do the new stuff and see what happens with that. For sure when I remove the old, I'll check the door to b pillar fit... I'm hesitant to try the hinge changes without some expertise. I can't think backwards enough. Also just noticed that the w.s. has let go on the bottom middle, that might be part of the problem

anyway... time to go hide my easter eggs so I can look for them later

 

Any pictures of the back edge of the door and one of it closed to see how it fits with the cab..?

 

Yes I looked at mine yesterday and it's even all along the rocker with the rear of door flush with the b pillar on the inside . So if his sheet metal is good on the outside there is definitely something welded wrong .

 

Is this the best your door closes John..

 

Looks like it's only on the first catch . Just another thought , my doors were both springy even without weather strip and it was the heads on the door hinge bolts being too big and hitting the door . PS waiting for Abe lol

 

no John, like ebear said it's at first catch only... hear's is a better shot now.. the door is still a little proud off the cab but not like the first pic you posted... hmmm Ebear, gotta look at those hinge bolt heads too !

 

I have trouble like that on my panel with the shaved door handles, I've got 40 solenoids but if I adjust the doors so they are flush you can't get the doors to pop . Sorry I did the shaved handles but I do like the look. I think I'll have a lot of time to sort it out this summer sitting at home..

 

so, come through storms last night unscathed and this a.m I took another look at door situation. Thinking about suggestions and comments you gentlemen made I looked with different perspective. Ebear... wasn't the hinge bolts (thank you Lord) The door WAS springy so the only thing it could be was the w.strip. I had already bought the hollow strip but hadn't used it yet. I removed the old solid stuff and tried the door naked. It closed easier (of course) and the inner door skin lined up well with the b-pillar inner edge. I taped the new hollow stuff to the door and tried it again.. proudness pretty much disappeared and door sealed much better... the gap is all but gone and I can fix that bottom corner with a little finessing or a shim...




now a question for you experienced builders... it seems that gluing the strip to the door edge on the hinge side is gonna be problematic... with such limited access... got any secrets for doing that without removing the door. A long tube extension on the weather strip adhesive tube would help but ain't got none of those...




I'm sure I'll be back with more idiot questions

j

 

Good to hear . It sounds like you've got it to where its workable without some serious rebuilding . There have been different threads on here regarding the thickness and lack of compression on some of the weather striping .

 

now a question for you experienced builders... it seems that gluing the strip to the door edge on the hinge side is gonna be problematic... with such limited access... got any secrets for doing that without removing the door. A long tube extension on the weather strip adhesive tube would help but ain't got none of those..

I'm not an experienced builder.....but how about double sided tape ? In Mid-Fiftys catalog they suggest using the tape instead of the adhesive.
I used the weather strip adhesive on mine, but the doors were off.

 

glad to hear you got some resolve. I have no idea on the weatherstripping gluing idea but Mid-Fifty is a really good company to deal with so if they say tape, that is probably a good answer. Bet you take off the doors though.
Oh and the truck looks awesome.

 

I put my weatherstrip on my OT car with the doors on. It was even tighter then you have. I used a small paintbrush taped to a piece of rod and put the sealer on the paintbrush and put a nice thin layer on the door. Did it in about 1 foot sections at a time. That was the easy part. Trying to feed the weatherstrip in with the adhesive on it and not touch anything is tough. Once the two pieces touch, that is where it is gonna stay. Good luck. The good thing is that the adhesive comes off with wax and grease remover. Your truck looks fantastic!