My boyfriend is about to log on to my account and answer y’all questions cause he’s been the one help working on it

 

sorry your having such a rotten issue, with your truck! these guys can help and will help.

 

So we have changed motors. Computers twice. Wiring harness on motor. Distributor. Mass air flow sensor, ( has it instead of the map) fuel pump, twice. Fuel pressure regulator. Ignition module. Distributor. Coil. Plugs. Wiring harness behind the dash. And lastly injectors. And still same problem the motor will spin over and has compression don’t know for sure if the injectors are tiring but know that there is 40lbs or pressure at the fuel rail. Will try to start but will not start and run by itself.

 

Post#8 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19213969

 

we have looked at that website before none of that was explaining any reason as to why the truck still won’t run and what parts I put on the truck and from where shouldn’t be your concern you didn’t pay for them I’m here to figure out why my truck still WILL NOT run not be judged because of all the new parts it has🤷🏽‍♀️

 

having an attitude, towards questions, when you change a motor out because, it didnt start, is not helping your situation, and if you did not prove that the parts you replaced, was bad, or you didnt buy motorcraft, then the 'new part' becomes the issue, it has been documented here on several threads, that new non-motorcraft parts have been bad even when new. So start with simple question, Do you have spark at coil, when motor is turning over? The link shows how to test injectors, that you say you havent checked, but you say the article, doesnt explain
Part 1 -How to Test the Fuel Injectors (5.0L Engine, 5.8L Engine)
Part 1 -How to Troubleshoot a No Start (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L).
Part 1 -Ignition Coil Test -No Spark No Start Tests (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L)

this thread tells about wrong ICM/TFI module an why you buy motorcraft
Do you have the right ICM? gray vs black ('93-'96) - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

did you get the correct ICM, what is the part name and #, if it s good, check PIP signal, this is also covered in the
Part 1 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)



test #7 shows PIP test
Part 5 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)

 

I have been in your situation myself and I know how frustrating it can be. I understand why you are buying new parts, if everything is new it should start right?
I have done the same and I don't have the right to judge you for anything. Sometimes it's like looking for a certain rain drop in a puddle of water. I will do my best to help you, your girl friend and your precious baby. I'm a grandpa myself. Okay, I need to establish in my mind what the truck is doing as of today. I will make a guess and then you can tell me what I have wrong and what I have right. #1 The 302 cranks over with the key. #2 The 302 tries to start but it pop's and shakes while trying to start. I am looking at a wiring diagram for your truck right now and will tell you what I see. These are things we do know. 12 volts from the battery The key switch in the start position works. Fuse #11 20 amp is good. Park / Neutral switch works. Starter relay and starter solenoid works. The starter works. I don't see anything in the lighting circuit that would affect anything. Now let.s look at 302 Auto trans engine (Vin N) wiring diagram. I will only focus on the components that are required to start the engine. We have 40 psi to the fuel rail so we can eliminate the fuel delivery components. Now we will have to check voltages to components to verify the wiring. I will try to post the pinout for the PCM. On the PCM check pin #1 Yellow wire for 12 volts key off. You can use a stout needle and poke the wire anywhere to measure voltage. Check pins 57 and 37 Red wires to both for 12 volts with the (Key in Run Engine off) Same poke with a needle trick if you need to. I have special probes for this kind of checking but it,s the same process. Check the Red/Light green wire at the coil for 12 volts (Key in Run engine off)
I am going to do some studying of the wiring and post later today after I gather more info on expected voltages.

 

Torq, We are not here to be condesending to anyone. We are here to help a guy who is going through a frustrating issue with his girlfriends truck which has sentimental value to her. We have all been there. Think about what he is doing for her, he could just walk away from the truck at this point. He also has a one year old to take care of. I am trying to help him diagnose this issue in a methodical process. To use the coulda, shoulda, woulda mind set trying to help doe's not solve anything. Whatever is broken will be found and fixed. At one time or another we have all had an attitude when we were frustrated. I never mean to offend anyone and if I do I always apologize.

 

we are going back over all the wiring today after we try a different computer and wiring harness once we do that I will pay a update!!

 

No fuses are blown and what are have been replaced. Tested fuel pressure and compression. It has spark but still no communication between diagnostic machine and computer

 

if you can post your calibration code, our guru's can help assure they are giving you the correct PCM, it is located on your drivers side B pillar

 

Okay guys so they hooked a diagnostic tester to my truck and everything reads but my computer they think it may not be grounded enough to read BUT there is a wire somewhere in the wiring harness that has burnt two of the computers that were put in my truck! Can anyone help with a idea of which it could possibly be

 

On your PCM the connector pins 40 and 60 are the ground pins. The wires are black with a white stripe coming out of the connector. Pin 60 will be one of the Black/White wires on one of the very outside corners of the connector. If you can find it you can splice into it and use a wire crimp eyelet to screw to any metal spot on the fender or find an existing screw or bolt and wrap the wire around it for a temporary ground. On the wiring diagram I have there are a few pins that could be causing the PCM's to short out. I will continue to think this through.

I have a thread on this page explaining that I will try to fix PCM's for free if you pay shipping. If I had one of your PCM's I should be able to find the circuit on the board along with the corresponding pin that caused the PCM to short out. I would put the link to my thread here but I don't know how yet.

 

The small black wire with a white stripe is the ground wire for the Computer located at the body ground G101 in the image below.
This wire at G101 goes to pin #40 & #60 in the computer plug,
Attachment 277906



Case ground G104 below:
Attachment 277905
/

 

Are there still different ground pin configurations between computers for vehicles with automatic transmissions vs those with manuals?
In the old Mustang swaps we used to do, we either had to have the right computer for the right transmission, or swap some wires around. Our MAF harness for Mustang engines actually has a pair of jumper wires so you can configure the harness for either computer no matter what it came from originally.

Just bringing this up on the off chance that they're getting new computers and trying them even though they might be for the wrong combination.

Paul