Rebuilding C6?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
Rebuilding C6?
For someone that never rebuilt an automatic transmission before, how hard would rebuilding a C6 be?
I ask as I am contemplating rebuilding mine as a cheaper alternative than buying a built one. Just never done a rebuild on an automatic before and wondering if its something I should attempt or just get one that is already built like I was looking at.
I ask as I am contemplating rebuilding mine as a cheaper alternative than buying a built one. Just never done a rebuild on an automatic before and wondering if its something I should attempt or just get one that is already built like I was looking at.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
Very easy as long as you have a quality manual, very clean surface, layout everything in order of removal and take an insane amount of pictures. Use quality parts and take your time, only special tool is a spring compressor. Here is one of the best manuals available.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,958
Likes: 105
From: Houston
Very easy as long as you have a quality manual, very clean surface, layout everything in order of removal and take an insane amount of pictures. Use quality parts and take your time, only special tool is a spring compressor. Here is one of the best manuals available.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
Well elaborate on your build and requirements, I have built hundreds of C6 transmissions. A 5500 rpm WOT shift isn't that hard to do but I hope you have the power curve to pull it otherwise its a wasted effort.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
I know I want to run the wide ratio planetary gear set, hear those gear sets are just stock E4OD planetary gear set. I also want to run Kevlar bands, I am looking at a shift kit of some kind something like a tow/rv kit. Might buy the valve body from Broader Performance if I did the work myself. The broader performance transmission I was looking at uses a F servo that I may or may not use I don't know.
I also know I will be running a hughes converter, I believe it is the XTM was the one recommended to me by Hughes after I talked with them about the specs of my engine and the future axle ratio change. I honestly believe my engine will be capable of pulling to 5,500 rpm considering the camshaft is 1,400 - 5,400 rpm and the intake manifold is idle to 5,500 rpm which might be a little higher since I am using a spacer plate to set the carb to OE height for use with my OE C6 kick down rod and my OE throttle cable and bracket.
As far as the power curve goes, the engine is a 306 build I am working on with the following specs.
Compression : 9.5:1 is what I am shooting for but could be as low as 9.2:1 and as high as 9.75:1
Camshaft : Crane Roller - 216*/224* duration @ 0.050, 112* LSA, 107* intake CL, 0.520"/0.542" Lift (1,400 - 5,400 rpm / 6,000 rpm redline / 2,400 - 3,000 rpm cruise)
Heads : AFR Renegade 165cc with upgraded valve springs and 7/16" rocker studs
Lifters : Ford Racing high performance roller lifters (ones with the refined valving making them stable to 6,500 rpm which should help to eliminate lifter issues up to redline not that I will take the engine to 6,000)
Rockers : Scorpion Racing 1.6:1 roller rockers
Intake : Performer (idle - 5,500 rpm)
Carb : Summit 600cfm 4V carb (also bought divided phenolic spacer in 1" thickness)
exhaust : Hedman street headers 2 1/2" OE ball collector with OE sized 2 1/2" Y pipe to a 2 1/4" OE sized Magnaflow XL 3 Chamber 6" round muffler with a OE sized 2 1/4" tail pipe
Specs of my build for the engine are very close to the Blueprint 306 crate engine rated at 385hp only difference is I am running a Crane roller truck cam that is a little smaller than the cam blueprint runs and the heads are AFR CNC machined heads compared to blueprints house brand heads that are not CNC machined. I figure I should make similar power, I should without a doubt make 300hp which was my goal, possibly as high as 350hp.
The rear axle ratio will change also currently its 2.75:1 with 31x10.50-15 KO2`s. If I can get this transmission around 3% to 5% slip like so many has told me a rebuilt C6 will have I will be running a 3.25:1 axle ratio out back. if its more then I will be switching to a 3.00:1 which will put me just under 2.75:1 ratio with tire size correction. 3.25:1 would put me around 2.90:1. The decision for this is to tailor my highway speed of 65 to 75 mph to be with in the 2,400 - 3,000 rpm cruise range. with 3.25:1 I should be turning around 2,750 rpm at 75 mph if I am lucky.
I know the last time I drove the truck before the balancer broke, if I was on the highway doing 65 mph and I nail the throttle to pass I would shift down into second gear rpm will go up to almost 4,000 instantly and slowly struggle to pull to 4,500 rpm before shifting. That is with a OE smog 135hp 302.
There is only one thing that I keep flipping back and forth on. I got all the fuel system for my truck, but I keep looking at going aftermarket Fuel Injection. Was looking at the Edelbrock ProFlo 4 multi port fuel injection but no ford kick down. Holley has their Terminator Stealth that looks like a holley 4150 double pumper and it has a ford kick down to maintain the OE kick down rod. Just not sure I want to spend $2,200 for the efi. Id still have to buy a fuel pump, a 85-86 short bed 16 gallon fuel tank and a 85 sending unit to maintain OE fuel gauge, Id also have to get a inline filter and hose and fittings. Going to be close to $3,000 for EFI in this fashion. The sniper is a lot cheaper at $1000 but no ford kick down.
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