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BRAIN DEAD AGAIN

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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 11:43 AM
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Unhappy BRAIN DEAD AGAIN

For the last several days I have been asking you kind people about hooking up the amp meter on my '50 with a 239, I had the gauges from the 6 volt system in my head,(along with a lot of empty space it seems), when indeed I have a VOLT meter on the 12V gauges. If my brains were dynamite it wouldn't be enough to blow my nose! What do I have to do to hook up the VOLT meter in respect to hooking up an amp meter?
I am embarrassed to ask this question but my dad always told me," make all the mistakes you want but learn from each one"
 
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 12:10 PM
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Is the truck 6 volt or 12 volt ?

A ammeter reads the current in series for all of the system (less the starter) going in and out of the battery, the voltmeter is wired in parallel, its just hooked up to the pos and neg terminals of the battery and reads the voltage.

The ammeter's where dangerous because of all of he current going through the circuit. The voltmeter just use enough current to move the gauge. A 12 voltmeter will not work on 6 volts.

It gets a little confusing and probably not applicable to you but some newer ammeters or charge indicators are not really ammeters, ... they are shunt voltmeters that are calibrated to read amps.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 01:11 PM
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I put an alternator onto the motor and went from 6v positive ground to 12 V negitive ground. Is there any difference in the wiring from an ameter to a voltmeter?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ynot321AB1
I put an alternator onto the motor and went from 6v positive ground to 12 V negitive ground. Is there any difference in the wiring from an ameter to a voltmeter?
Yes, it is connected differently.

Your alternator circuit does not need to run to the voltmeter at all. It can run directly to the battery side of the starter relay. (You can still run it through the post on the regulator, if you wish.) The voltmeter will need keyed power, and ground. Keyed, because it can eventually run your battery down if connected to constant power.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Old F1
, ... they are shunt voltmeters that are calibrated to read amps.
Huh? I'd like to know more about that.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2020 | 03:45 PM
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Here is my hasty and feeble attempt to explain the various meter iterations. Hope this will help ynot321AB1



 
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Old Apr 3, 2020 | 03:24 PM
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I wired the alternator directly to the starter relay and made sure that the volt meter had power when the switch is on and ground. Now the motor won't turn at all.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2020 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ynot321AB1
I wired the alternator directly to the starter relay and made sure that the volt meter had power when the switch is on and ground. Now the motor won't turn at all.
Did you wire the alternator lead to the battery side of the relay? That's where it should go. Did you forget to reconnect the battery? Don't see why it wouldn't crank if the relay and all connections are good, and the battery is charged.
Does the voltmeter work?
 
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Old Apr 4, 2020 | 12:56 PM
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I ran the wire to the battery side of the starter relay and battery is charged. I thought maybe the gauges were not grounded properly so ran a ground wire from the ground side of the gauges to ground without result. I took a volt meter and checked the battery and it is good. I checked from the battery to the starter relay and got a charge but nothing from there to the gauges regardless of the switch being off or on.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2020 | 09:03 AM
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If you still have the factory stock wiring there should be a wire that goes from the ignition switch to the 15 amp circuit breaker, or to the headlight switch.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2020 | 09:34 AM
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Off what post on the ignition switch does this wire come off of and where does it go from there?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2020 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ynot321AB1
Off what post on the ignition switch does this wire come off of and where does it go from there?
According to the factory wiring diagram top right post on switch to circuit breakers. Small yellow wire to big yellow wire. Or you can make a temporary jumper to the battery side of the starter relay.




 
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Old Apr 5, 2020 | 11:20 AM
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I wouldn't go by the picture. The terminals are labelled on the back of the switch.
GA = gauges or accessories
BAT or B = Battery
IGN = ignition

Do you have a workshop manual? All the wiring is shown in a fair amount of detail in there.

Are you using stock gauges? Have you got a voltage reducer for the gauges? There is no "ground side" of the gauges, there is power in and a wire to the sender for each gauge.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2020 | 01:07 PM
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WONDER OF WONDERS, I actually did something right!! I got it to crank and actually fired again for awhile. Now it appears that I have a fuel problem. I have fuel in the tank but it does not go through the inline filter. Oh well i guess that is why it is interesting to work on these things as it is always something. Thanks again for all the help.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2020 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ynot321AB1
WONDER OF WONDERS, I actually did something right!! I got it to crank and actually fired again for awhile. Now it appears that I have a fuel problem. I have fuel in the tank but it does not go through the inline filter. Oh well i guess that is why it is interesting to work on these things as it is always something. Thanks again for all the help.
I'm excited and happy for you. Please share what it was that you did right.
 
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