Beginner Gun Recommendation
I have an IR TS-5 compressor with 15cfm @ 90cfm, rated for continuous duty cycle. I have a non-oiled air leg that has a filter/regulator on it. I can install an in-line dryer if needed.
I'd say my budget is around $200...maybe $250. Being completely new to this, I have no idea where the tipping point of price/quality is. I do not mind spending on a good gun but do not plan on making a living painting automobiles.
As always, thanks for the help!
https://www.eastwood.com/devilbiss-3...xoC_jQQAvD_BwE
I have not used the primer gun, still use old school, but the paint guns I think are pretty good as I just got done painting my 82 F100 flare side.
I also replaced the metal cups with davillbiss D cup setup on all 3 guns. Nice easy clean up of just the gun head.
edit added picture of my truck.
I should tell you I have had training in body work (don't like it and never made a living doing it) and have painted a few cars in my time but I still think the guns are pretty good for what they are.
Start line is their bottom line, Finish line is the higher end guns.
single stage (no clear) and no "cutting & buffing" done in my garage 4 year cab off frame rebuild.
Dave ----
https://www.eastwood.com/devilbiss-a...ng-system.html
I have an IR TS-5 compressor with 15cfm @ 90cfm, rated for continuous duty cycle. I have a non-oiled air leg that has a filter/regulator on it. I can install an in-line dryer if needed.
I'd say my budget is around $200...maybe $250. Being completely new to this, I have no idea where the tipping point of price/quality is. I do not mind spending on a good gun but do not plan on making a living painting automobiles.
As always, thanks for the help!
https://www.eastwood.com/devilbiss-a...ng-system.html
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Same for the inside of the cab like the roof and back wall.
I also used it on the inside of the fenders and under side of the hood at different times and off the truck.
As I posted all 3 of my guns use the large cup and all are set up for the DeKups
http://www.eastwood.com/dekups-24-oz...iABEgJxJ_D_BwE
I like the large cup so I don't have to stop as much to refill but the smaller gun for doing smaller areas / panels or in tight areas like inside the cab.
Dave ----
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I used to run a large mtce/paint shop, there are a lot of brands out there, but Devilbiss was always the old tried and true stand by.
You can ask 10 different guys there opinion, and get 11 different answers. Kinda like asking a mechanic, what’s the better ratchet? Snap on or Mac? Or maybe craftsman? Or... etc etc etc.
Anyway, anytime we needed new convention guns, we just ordered devilbiss. They have a large range of options.
good luck with it, nothing like doing it yourself, and having the satisfaction of it after.
get another inline air/water/oil separator too. It’ll make life a lot easier on you, and don’t forget to drain the tank daily. Moisture builds up in them. If your concerned or run oil through your lines clean them with some alcohol. If you’ve ever used wd40 or something like that, anything with silicone, change the lines or use silicone remover to clean them out. Nothing else will remove silicone other than silicone remover.
Dust control will probably be your biggest challenge. And make sure you clean clean clean your gun when your done.
Check out places like Tractor Supply, Northern Tool (where I got my late set of filters IIRC), maybe Harbor Freight and where you get the paint for your project.
When done I clean the mask part of any paint that gets on it and then stick it in a plastic bag sealed tight till needed again. I just get new filters when painting again.
They do make a filter for dusty work like with Bondo but I use the cheap white throw away type.
As for dust / dirt control try and pick a day when the wind is low or better not at all.
Clean the area (garage) 3 or more times. I swept the floor then used a blow gun and air to blow off the rafters (open area in my garage) walls, workbench corners and floor.
I did this 3 or more times. I then took heavy mill plastic and lined the walls and covered stuff in 1 bay next to where I was painting as it could not be moved out.
On the other side of the plastic covering the "stuff" in that bay there is a car on the other side of it, 2 bay doors but 3+ bays wide inside as I had 1 car & 2 pick up trucks inside and had enough room to work on 1 of the trucks. I felt that area was far enough away not to worry about dirt from there and was right.
I also wet the floor down to help keep the dust down. You just have to be careful when moving the hose that you don't kick up water onto what you are painting.
The floor kept drying faster than I could keep it wet LOL.
Only dirt I got was the air hose started leaking at the end and had to throw it outside so I could fix it.
When I opened the garage door, electric opener, it was above the truck and dropped dirt on it. I also had 2 bugs get on it too.
My air system would put some shops to shame.
80 gallon 2 stage compressor and home made air dryer.
Close up of dryer. base board fin tube and a few fittings and valves it has 2 drip legs to catch water.
I put a box fan blowing across it when I painted.
The blue piping runs all the way around the garage with 5 air hose drops. 1 at the back of each bay (2), 1 between the 2 bays at front and 1 on each side wall. One wall has a work bench with the air drop.
Air hose drop with drop leg
Work bench with air hose and drip leg
I have never had issues with not enough air or water out any of the hoses.
Dave ----
Check out places like Tractor Supply, Northern Tool (where I got my late set of filters IIRC), maybe Harbor Freight and where you get the paint for your project.
When done I clean the mask part of any paint that gets on it and then stick it in a plastic bag sealed tight till needed again. I just get new filters when painting again.
They do make a filter for dusty work like with Bondo but I use the cheap white throw away type.
As for dust / dirt control try and pick a day when the wind is low or better not at all.
Clean the area (garage) 3 or more times. I swept the floor then used a blow gun and air to blow off the rafters (open area in my garage) walls, workbench corners and floor.
I did this 3 or more times. I then took heavy mill plastic and lined the walls and covered stuff in 1 bay next to where I was painting as it could not be moved out.
On the other side of the plastic covering the "stuff" in that bay there is a car on the other side of it, 2 bay doors but 3+ bays wide inside as I had 1 car & 2 pick up trucks inside and had enough room to work on 1 of the trucks. I felt that area was far enough away not to worry about dirt from there and was right.
I also wet the floor down to help keep the dust down. You just have to be careful when moving the hose that you don't kick up water onto what you are painting.
The floor kept drying faster than I could keep it wet LOL.
Only dirt I got was the air hose started leaking at the end and had to throw it outside so I could fix it.
When I opened the garage door, electric opener, it was above the truck and dropped dirt on it. I also had 2 bugs get on it too.
My air system would put some shops to shame.
80 gallon 2 stage compressor and home made air dryer.
Close up of dryer. base board fin tube and a few fittings and valves it has 2 drip legs to catch water.
I put a box fan blowing across it when I painted.
The blue piping runs all the way around the garage with 5 air hose drops. 1 at the back of each bay (2), 1 between the 2 bays at front and 1 on each side wall. One wall has a work bench with the air drop.
Air hose drop with drop leg
Work bench with air hose and drip leg
I have never had issues with not enough air or water out any of the hoses.
Dave ----
that’s a really nice set up Dave. You’re right, it would rival some of pro shops I’ve seen.
Im really impressed with the air cooler / air dryer system. Simple and effective. Do you get much water out of it? I’m assuming the water cools, condenses, and runs to the bottom to a drain? Looks like a quarter turn valve to drain? Very inventive.
cleaning for dust control is key.
Tough to get right now I would bet. I’d recommend your local auto body store, if you can go to one. If not, a 3m respirator on amazon will be your best bet. Reusable or disposable. The disposable ones are good enough for a one shot job. About the same price as cartridges for the reusable.
Im really impressed with the air cooler / air dryer system. Simple and effective. Do you get much water out of it? I’m assuming the water cools, condenses, and runs to the bottom to a drain? Looks like a quarter turn valve to drain? Very inventive.
cleaning for dust control is key.
Tough to get right now I would bet. I’d recommend your local auto body store, if you can go to one. If not, a 3m respirator on amazon will be your best bet. Reusable or disposable. The disposable ones are good enough for a one shot job. About the same price as cartridges for the reusable.
That dryer does work great, don't remember getting any water at any hose drop drip leg. I drain the tank before & after each time I use it and the dryer.
When I painted my truck and was worried about water at the hose I set up a 20" box fan blowing across the fins and that did the trick as I forgot to add a water filter at the gun.
I had more of an issue sweating and dripping on my paint job than water from the air hose LOL
I had that compressor & dryer in a small 1 car garage before I moved and it was at the back with no air flow around the fins and I was using a water hose to power my air tools, NOT GOOD!
I went back to find what it was not working and between the compressor throwing off heat and no air flow the dryer could not work. That was when I set up a box fan to move the air and it worked once I got the water out of the air hose. In my garage now I also have the blue air piping in loop around the garage and that also works to cool the air but again don't remember any water at the hose drop drip legs.
I have also heard of guys dropping the air hose or a coil of copper in a 5 gal. bucket filled with water & ice to cool the air and running the air into a holding tank used as a large drip leg to catch the water and hooking the air hose to the tank. Just make sure the air going in and air going out are 90* from each other. Say air in the said of the tank, water drops out of the air and you take the air off the top of the tank at the other end.
Some also run a long pipe on an angle down the wall of the garage. Before the move I did not have the room and why the fin tube dryer.
You really need a way to cool the air and a place to collect the water so if a 20 foot pipe is enough then good.
Others have used old AC condensers, small radiator, with a fan to cool the air.
A Google search comes up with a lot of DIY dryers but I found the fin tube to work the best for me.
On the mask the little white dust / paint mask does not work to good, at least for me and why I have a good one that I can replace the cartages on.
I also have other projects I plan on painting but like the air compressor once you use a good make you will not go back LOL.
Dave ----
That dryer does work great, don't remember getting any water at any hose drop drip leg. I drain the tank before & after each time I use it and the dryer.
When I painted my truck and was worried about water at the hose I set up a 20" box fan blowing across the fins and that did the trick as I forgot to add a water filter at the gun.
I had more of an issue sweating and dripping on my paint job than water from the air hose LOL
I had that compressor & dryer in a small 1 car garage before I moved and it was at the back with no air flow around the fins and I was using a water hose to power my air tools, NOT GOOD!
I went back to find what it was not working and between the compressor throwing off heat and no air flow the dryer could not work. That was when I set up a box fan to move the air and it worked once I got the water out of the air hose. In my garage now I also have the blue air piping in loop around the garage and that also works to cool the air but again don't remember any water at the hose drop drip legs.
I have also heard of guys dropping the air hose or a coil of copper in a 5 gal. bucket filled with water & ice to cool the air and running the air into a holding tank used as a large drip leg to catch the water and hooking the air hose to the tank. Just make sure the air going in and air going out are 90* from each other. Say air in the said of the tank, water drops out of the air and you take the air off the top of the tank at the other end.
Some also run a long pipe on an angle down the wall of the garage. Before the move I did not have the room and why the fin tube dryer.
You really need a way to cool the air and a place to collect the water so if a 20 foot pipe is enough then good.
Others have used old AC condensers, small radiator, with a fan to cool the air.
A Google search comes up with a lot of DIY dryers but I found the fin tube to work the best for me.
On the mask the little white dust / paint mask does not work to good, at least for me and why I have a good one that I can replace the cartages on.
I also have other projects I plan on painting but like the air compressor once you use a good make you will not go back LOL.
Dave ----
Yes, I like that set up. Very nice. We used big dryers, basically refrigerators. They were electronically controlled, I wouldn’t say problematic, but I wouldn’t say they were without their issues either. I love your system for the simplicity.
Very nice set up. And I think I’m going to have to copy your little invention! I’ll make sure I give credit when people ask!
Note to the OP:
I should clarify on the masks. By disposable, I mean the 3m disposable respirators. They look the same as a typical respirator mask, but the filter cartridges are not changeable, the whole mask is discarded. Don’t ask me why. But anyway, the whole mask is roughly the same price as a set of cartridges. Just an option for you. Make sure it fits well.
Don’t use dust masks to spray! Depending on what your spraying, read up on isocyanates. Amongst other bad stuff in paint.











