Question(s) for the EFI guys...
76 F150 460 Edelbrock ProFlo4

I have everything tied in. No sensor errors on the Edelbrock. No start, cant even get the starter to bump over.

I pulled the starter to make sure that it was wired correctly and it bench started just fine. I have plenty of ground straps (4 total).
What am I missing??? Is there something that you had to do when removing all of the Ford factory wring that I may have missed?? I'm curious about the coil wire from the starter solenoid, so ill make a jumper today to see if that is the issue.

Also; Where do the oil pressure sensor wire and coolant temp wire come thru the cab?? I know that they are wht/red and red/wht but cant find them coming thru the cab into the engine bay.

 

The FB guys found problem #1... I wired the dadgum starter based on the diagram and not the actual description...its deceptive since its 180 off...

 

Okay... starter rewired. It will turn over when bridging the starter solenoid but not with the key.

 

Why did you need to remove any of the factory wiring?
AFAIK you are just adding the pro flow wiring on top of the factory wiring and that should be only for power & ground nothing else.

So it looks like you are not running the stock Ford starter but a after market one?
You could have moved the starter battery cable from the out put of the stock solenoid to the other side, the same side the battery cable is on and the other end to the large lug on that new starter.
Then run a 10 gauge wire from the out put side of the solenoid to the "S" lug on the new starter. All other factory wiring would stay the same.

Can you take a picture of the factory solenoid if still in place and how it is wired?
I am guessing you removed the cab power feed fuse link, any dash lights with key on?
What do you have going to the "S" lug on the factory solenoid? The factory wire should only be hot when the key is turned to start and cold all other times.
Dave ----

 

I got rid of all the ford systems... distributor, brain, egr... so there was no need for most of it. I'm sure that theres a piece of this pie missing somewhere.
The corrected bridge on the starter now goes from the large lug to the S lug. I'll post a pic of the solenoid in a sec.

 

 

What is this?? It clicks when I turn the key.

 

Okay... the NSS was the culprit....
Now it turns over great but it's not firing over.... back to the think box.

 

It ran for about 10 seconds!!! Just have to work out the timing issues....

Thank yall for letting me talk thru it!!

 

Congrats! Hope it's all smooth sailing from now on.

A couple of comments (now that the NSS is off the table) would be that even though Ford laid their ignition coils on their sides, I would not do that with modern aftermarket coils. In fact I'm pretty sure MSD says never to do that in their instructions. Too much chance of there being not enough cooling oil inside and the coil overheating.
Recommend standing it vertical and, if needed, moving it to some place with more clearance for that.

The second is I can't see into the back dark corner on the passenger side, but are you running a PCV valve? That is not just "smog crap" and needs to be retained. Always keep your PCV system functioning. It'll stretch out the life of your engine for many more years than without it.

Good luck! Oh, and post a video of it running with the new system too!

Paul

 

Where is it located? It's a relay, and is obviously working with the key ON only, but it looks like the horn relay, with maybe a difference in connector orientation.
In the pic of your starter relay/solenoid you can see what should be the horn relay just to the rear/right of your starter relay.

But it should not click when you turn the key because horns get power even with the key OFF.

Paul

 

Updates.... it has been a couple of disappointing days with some scary moments!!!! I had a friend come over on tuesday night to help me get her started and broke-in. We tried and tried, trouble shoot after trouble shoot, after an hour or so we FINALLY got her to hold a high idle but the timing was still not right... then it started knocking like crazy!!! We are checking everything and nothing makes sense so I snap a quick video to send to the builder and we shut it down. We agreed that the experience was more than enough for the night and walk away. Well, I couldnt sleep (obvoiusly) so I went out and starting checking anything obvious that the noise could have been.... after about an hour I found it. The rocker arm for #5 intake was completely loose and sitting sideways.... it was banging against the valve cover!!! The pushrod was straight, bolt wasnt broken so all I can figure is that it wasnt tightened appropriately or not placed correctly. The following morning I go out to the shop hoping the problem was solved and it would fire right off.... nope!!! It sounds WAAAYYYY better now that its hitting on all 8 but I still cant get the timing set.

So, I've called in the big guns. I'm done messing with it until after it gets broke-in correctly!! I have 2 pros coming out to finish up the timing and brake-in.

 

So your wife and mother-in-law are ASE mechanics?

 

Man I wish!!! Wouldn't that be nice!!

 

Well... SHES ALIVE!!!!!!!!!! I finally called Edelbrock to see if it was a programming issue; and it was!!! I had to upload the current version of the App, then download the correct mapping code, load the mapping code then she fired right off. It wasn't quite that easy but I was able to get her to hold a decent idle then break her in correctly. I got up this morning and changed the break-in oil (no metal flakes or debris in the catch filter), worked on a trans cooler line leak and now she's going to get the first bath in over 9 months when she pulled into the shop.