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Locating factory ground points

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Old Mar 21, 2020 | 05:16 PM
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Locating factory ground points

Hi,

i have a 2018 crew cab f150

​​​​I'm installing a 12V water pump in my box just behind the back seats. I was wondering if there is a convenient ground somewhere I could use?

Thanks
 
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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 07:58 AM
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Any reason you can't just go to the body?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2020 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by alloro
Any reason you can't just go to the body?
Use of the body for ground is a bad idea. For one the body itself is mounted to the frame with rubber isolation bushings. Its just not a good return path.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2020 | 11:41 AM
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Factory grounds do use the body, pull off the lower footwell plastic on the pass side and you will see.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2020 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by CR172
For one the body itself is mounted to the frame with rubber isolation bushings. Its just not a good return path.
FYI, there are ground bonds between the body, frame and battery negative, all of which make the return path very solid. But suit yourself.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2020 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by alloro
FYI, there are ground bonds between the body, frame and battery negative, all of which make the return path very solid. But suit yourself.
It has and always will be a bad idea to use the body as a ground. It has no direct path back to the source, the battery. Just ask any GOOD automotive audio shop. Not to mention aluminum is a lousy conductor.

But suit yourself.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2020 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by CR172
It has and always will be a bad idea to use the body as a ground. It has no direct path back to the source, the battery. Just ask any GOOD automotive audio shop. Not to mention aluminum is a lousy conductor.

But suit yourself.
Aluminum is actually a very good conductor. They used to make household wiring from aluminum, but discontinued it because there were issues getting connections to be stable. In the list of conductive metals, it is:
  1. Silver
  2. Copper
  3. Annealed Copper
  4. Gold
  5. Aluminum
Steel is way down at #11 with about 1/4 the conductivity of aluminum.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2020 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by GlueGuy
Aluminum is actually a very good conductor. They used to make household wiring from aluminum, but discontinued it because there were issues getting connections to be stable. In the list of conductive metals, it is:
  1. Silver
  2. Copper
  3. Annealed Copper
  4. Gold
  5. Aluminum
Steel is way down at #11 with about 1/4 the conductivity of aluminum.
Not getting into a pissing match on conductors or using the body as a ground. As was said previously. Suit yourself...
 
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Old Mar 25, 2020 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by CR172
Not getting into a pissing match on conductors or using the body as a ground. As was said previously. Suit yourself...
I did not mean to offend you or "start a pissing match". I was just pointing out that in the world of metals, aluminum is a far better conductor than steel. And I was actually wrong about steel being #11 on the list; #11 is plain iron. Carbon steel is much further down the list at #16. The full list can be seen here.

Here is a snapshot of the particulars:

 
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Old Mar 26, 2020 | 11:39 AM
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The problem with aluminum house wiring is that electrical current causes heats when it flows (even in copper) aluminum swells more than copper when heated. They tried using it because it is a much cheaper metal and at the time there was a shortage in raw copper. I had a house that was built in 1970 that had that stuff in it. If you started hearing a sizzling sound in an wall outlet or light fixture you had to re-tighten the wire connections. in the late 70's early 80's they came up with some copper pigtails with special wiring nuts and pukey (grease) to repair the ends and it ended the loose connection problem. Cost me about $300. To repair the wiring in that house just for parts, I did the labor myself.
TJ
 
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Old Mar 27, 2020 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by TJReams
The problem with aluminum house wiring is that electrical current causes heats when it flows (even in copper) aluminum swells more than copper when heated. They tried using it because it is a much cheaper metal and at the time there was a shortage in raw copper. I had a house that was built in 1970 that had that stuff in it. If you started hearing a sizzling sound in an wall outlet or light fixture you had to re-tighten the wire connections. in the late 70's early 80's they came up with some copper pigtails with special wiring nuts and pukey (grease) to repair the ends and it ended the loose connection problem. Cost me about $300. To repair the wiring in that house just for parts, I did the labor myself.
TJ
That was the problem I was talking about. After that problem was uncovered, they changed the connectors used. Newer connectors will be labeled if they are compatible with aluminum. If you are splicing copper to aluminum wires, you need to use an anti-oxidant, like NOALOX or equivalent.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2020 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by GlueGuy
If you are splicing copper to aluminum wires, you need to use an anti-oxidant, like NOALOX or equivalent.
I actually use that on battery cables every time I replace a battery. Never a speck of corrosion.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2020 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by GlueGuy
That was the problem I was talking about. After that problem was uncovered, they changed the connectors used. Newer connectors will be labeled if they are compatible with aluminum. If you are splicing copper to aluminum wires, you need to use an anti-oxidant, like NOALOX or equivalent.
That's the pukey I was talking about. The building we had our first Shop (1978) in was owned by a Master Electrician, We just leased some space and a small office in the back. He gave me a small bottle of it to use and I went to the Electrical Supply and bought a bigger bottle. All he ever called it was pukey and I know what to look for (if they redesign the bottle, I'm in trouble) I doubt I will ever need the stuff again. Do remember the connectors have to be marked CU-AL. I have slept a couple times since then. As far as Battery terminals go any type automotive grease will work as it seals the connection from air. We used plain old bearing grease in the Army huge 9 N batteries down in the belly. We cleaned and re-greased them once a year.
TJ
 
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Old Mar 29, 2020 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TJReams
That's the pukey I was talking about. The building we had our first Shop (1978) in was owned by a Master Electrician, We just leased some space and a small office in the back. He gave me a small bottle of it to use and I went to the Electrical Supply and bought a bigger bottle. All he ever called it was pukey and I know what to look for (if they redesign the bottle, I'm in trouble) I doubt I will ever need the stuff again. Do remember the connectors have to be marked CU-AL. I have slept a couple times since then. As far as Battery terminals go any type automotive grease will work as it seals the connection from air. We used plain old bearing grease in the Army huge 9 N batteries down in the belly. We cleaned and re-greased them once a year.
TJ
For protecting connections I use some stuff from Dow Corning called DC4. It will keep water out of the connection, but does not interfere with conductivity. We re-wired the connection from PG&E to our pump shed, and also changed the first 20' of the wiring going to our well pump. The wire going to the well pump is aught-gauge aluminum, and we made the intermediate connection with similar gauge copper. The electrician at the time called the goo "No-Ox" or something like that. That was over 22 years ago, and that connection is still good. At least our well pump works great still.
 
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