4x4 conversion
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2003
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4x4 conversion
Hey i was wondering what would be the bast way to covert a 53-56 to a 4x4. Wuld you have to do a frame swap or couldnt you just hang the front axle on replacing the stock suppension. Would it be that difficult to mount the t-case. I know about napco, but those parts are just to hard to come by. The driveline would probally come from a 67-79 ford for the conversion
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Re: 4x4 conversion
My personal opinion is that you should keep the truck 2wd. There are lots of 4wd applications out there that would serve the purpose without butchering a good 53-56 to make one. If you really want a 4wd, find one that is already 4wd and update that. Changing a 2wd to a 4wd would also be a time consuming and expensive proposition that would decrease the value of the 2wd truck...just my opinion. 
I know beauty is in the eyes of the beholder, but I've never seen a 4wd truck that I thought looked as good as a 2wd.
I know beauty is in the eyes of the beholder, but I've never seen a 4wd truck that I thought looked as good as a 2wd.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,495
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From: Northwest Fl
If you’ve made up my mind to go with four-wheel drive, I think it would be a lot easier to do the frame swap instead of modifying your existing frame. Since you are considering going with a 70’s driveline, I would also consider using that frame as well. All your engine and transmission mounts would be correct. I have my ‘55 sitting on a 4X2 ‘69 frame, cut down to a shortened wheelbase.
I’m like Vern though; I don’t think these old trucks should be jacked up and abused (an assumption) as many older 4X4’s are. I have kept my original frame and drive line intact (for guilt reasons) just in case I ever want to go back original.
I’m like Vern though; I don’t think these old trucks should be jacked up and abused (an assumption) as many older 4X4’s are. I have kept my original frame and drive line intact (for guilt reasons) just in case I ever want to go back original.
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Well the reason i would make it a 4x4 is that I live in Fairbanks Alaska and it is praticly imposible to get to my house in the very long winter w/o 4wd. So i am just a guy who wants a nice old truck, but still wants it to be semi pratical. As a matter of fact there is an origanal napco studebaker truck, but the problem with that is that it is still with it's origanal owner and i dout that he will part with it after 45 years.
And how is making it a 4x4 butchering it? I just still see these old things as what they are, TRUCKS. I don't mean to affend anyone who wants so slam and chop it, but they are still trucks and they are made to work first and play second
And how is making it a 4x4 butchering it? I just still see these old things as what they are, TRUCKS. I don't mean to affend anyone who wants so slam and chop it, but they are still trucks and they are made to work first and play second
Last edited by csimmons; Oct 17, 2003 at 12:55 AM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
I don't live in Alaska, but I do live in New Hampshire and we get plenty of snow and ice here during the winter. Perhaps "butchered" was a little strong, but that's the way I see converting one of these old trucks to 4wd...regardless of where you live. I love my old F-3, but it will NEVER see a snowy or icy road. It's one of the things you have to give up if you live in the cold country. I can enjoy my old truck about 6-8 months of the year, but I have to park it and put my Cherokee out in the ice and snow during the winter...
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
"And how is making it a 4x4 butchering it? I just still see these old things as what they are, TRUCKS. I don't mean to affend anyone who wants so slam and chop it, but they are still trucks and they are made to work first and play second"
Csimmons
If you put the truck on a newer chassis, it has to be extremely well thought out or you end up doing a lot of irreversible cutting and fabricating. It seems like a simple conversion on the surface but it won't turn out that way in the end. Some of us have seen some very poorly done 4x4s. If you go in knowing you will spend lot's of time and money to do it professionally, it doesn't have to be a hack job. A 4x4 conversion is certainly no more of a butcher than many of the other rodded trucks on this forum. (including mine)
For many of us here, the truck has entered it's second life as a pleasure vehicle first, work optional. We use our 10-15 year old F150s-250s and such for the real work.
Csimmons
If you put the truck on a newer chassis, it has to be extremely well thought out or you end up doing a lot of irreversible cutting and fabricating. It seems like a simple conversion on the surface but it won't turn out that way in the end. Some of us have seen some very poorly done 4x4s. If you go in knowing you will spend lot's of time and money to do it professionally, it doesn't have to be a hack job. A 4x4 conversion is certainly no more of a butcher than many of the other rodded trucks on this forum. (including mine)
For many of us here, the truck has entered it's second life as a pleasure vehicle first, work optional. We use our 10-15 year old F150s-250s and such for the real work.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Saskatoon SK Canada
Well if you found a '59 to '64 front 4x4 axle you probally could just bolt it to the stock front springs. You probally would have to get them rearched or new ones since it would raise the front of the truck. You would still have to figure out the transfer case.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: chicopee us
Does it really have to be lifted way up just because he said 4x4? I think it would be cool to keep it more stock height but have 4x4 to get through the heavy snow (the best of both worlds). In this case I would think transplanting the transfer case and front axle would be a good option.
Well now that I think about it I think there would be clearance problems for the front drive shaft if the truck was kept too low. I think the transfer case would end up almost under the bed or right about at the cab to bed intersection.
CS, if I were you I would also be looking for away to get the FULL enjoyment out of my toy.
My 53 was a work truck it's entire life and my friends think I'm crazy when I tell them I will continue to use it to tow my construction trailer and to haul stuff around. This doesn't mean I will abuse it but I want alot of seat time in it.
I have to admit that I have seen some effies that are 4x4 and though I like them lower I can still appreciate the work and craftsmenship that goes into ANY well crafted project.
Well now that I think about it I think there would be clearance problems for the front drive shaft if the truck was kept too low. I think the transfer case would end up almost under the bed or right about at the cab to bed intersection.
CS, if I were you I would also be looking for away to get the FULL enjoyment out of my toy.
My 53 was a work truck it's entire life and my friends think I'm crazy when I tell them I will continue to use it to tow my construction trailer and to haul stuff around. This doesn't mean I will abuse it but I want alot of seat time in it.
I have to admit that I have seen some effies that are 4x4 and though I like them lower I can still appreciate the work and craftsmenship that goes into ANY well crafted project.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
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From: Iowa
"Does it really have to be lifted way up just because he said 4x4?"
Probably not, but you have to find a late model donor with the correct wheelbase, to be willing to spend the time to adjust the wheelbase. Most of the bad conversions I have seen have an incorrect wheel centering. Then up up she goes so they could steer without sheet metal interference. To steal Carl's phrase, next thing you know you're "Redneck High"
It doesn't have to be that way, but you better have a good plan and lots of time.
Probably not, but you have to find a late model donor with the correct wheelbase, to be willing to spend the time to adjust the wheelbase. Most of the bad conversions I have seen have an incorrect wheel centering. Then up up she goes so they could steer without sheet metal interference. To steal Carl's phrase, next thing you know you're "Redneck High"
It doesn't have to be that way, but you better have a good plan and lots of time.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
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From: Iowa
CSimmons
Sorry if we were hard on your idea. Is this the truck you are referring to? It appears to be well done if the picture represents the truck accurately.
http://dealsonwheels.com/search/deta...-200303-000009
This next link is what we are used to seeing. See the custom trim job on the front fenders because he didn't bother to correct the donor wheelbase? He is also crowding the rear fenders. Looks like he just split the difference. No style points at all for this trick. It looks "rigged" IMO.
http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/w...tem=2437663536
Sorry if we were hard on your idea. Is this the truck you are referring to? It appears to be well done if the picture represents the truck accurately.
http://dealsonwheels.com/search/deta...-200303-000009
This next link is what we are used to seeing. See the custom trim job on the front fenders because he didn't bother to correct the donor wheelbase? He is also crowding the rear fenders. Looks like he just split the difference. No style points at all for this trick. It looks "rigged" IMO.
http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/w...tem=2437663536
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 251
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From: Kentucky
Heck, I'd love to get my hands on a decent original Marmon-Herrington truck and fix it up with the original equipment!! Marmon-Herrington is still in business, but they have specialized in multiple wheel drive for LARGE trucks for years, so I don't know if they still carry parts for the old M-H Fords of years gone by.
If I were converting Grover to 4x4 (which I'm not), I'd look for parts from late '50s to mid '60s that will essentially bolt right up to the frame. I pretty much like my truck as it is, and feel no real need to update it beyond 12 volt conversion and a semi decent stereo.
Welllll..... Maybe I need to include the Dana 60 rear end I want, because I really DO like going faster than 50 mph.
If I were converting Grover to 4x4 (which I'm not), I'd look for parts from late '50s to mid '60s that will essentially bolt right up to the frame. I pretty much like my truck as it is, and feel no real need to update it beyond 12 volt conversion and a semi decent stereo.
Welllll..... Maybe I need to include the Dana 60 rear end I want, because I really DO like going faster than 50 mph.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 954
Likes: 2
From: 15 miles west of Venus
If I were going to do this, I would run the original frame. I would get some measurements from a early Bronco D44, or better yet, a pre-'73 F250. The pre-'73 front end should have the same spring spacing as the effie. An early Bronco front might be closer to the correct track width. Cut the mounts off and ad spring perches. Then ad a married NP205 and C6 or NP435 combo. I would upgrade the steering sector to possibly a '78/79 F250 4x4 box. Keep the tires in the 30" range and you should not have problem.
All of this should require minimal alteration to original parts.
All of this should require minimal alteration to original parts.
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I truck that i do have acess to is a 68 f-250. The frame is bent but the 4wd is all good. And is has the old style t-case were its connected to the tranny by a small driveshaft. Now how much would i have to do to bolt this up. Would a small body lift a new crossmember work?