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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Red Generator Light

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Old Mar 14, 2020 | 11:41 PM
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Red Generator Light

As I’m driving sometimes the the red generator light on my gauge cluster turns on and off, and sometimes it sort of just lingers. Love to get some info on why this is. Truck is a 1963 ford f-100 2wd.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2020 | 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by AidenG
As I’m driving sometimes the the red generator light on my gauge cluster turns on and off, and sometimes it sort of just lingers. Love to get some info on why this is. Truck is a 1963 ford f-100 2wd.
Try cleaning some of the electrical connections and grounds.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2020 | 03:13 AM
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Brushes are losing contact on the armature.
The springs holding the brushes to the armature could be weakening.
It is easy to swap over to a 3-wire GM alternator or to a Ford 3G alternator.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2020 | 11:34 AM
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Ditto comments above and also suggest check belt tension, test voltage regulator and connections??
 
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Old Mar 15, 2020 | 04:48 PM
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[QUOTE=instig8r63;19172043]Brushes are losing contact on the armature.
The springs holding the brushes to the armature could be weakening.
It is easy to swap over to a 3-wire GM alternator or to a Ford 3G alternator.[/QUOTE

there is a generator on the engine
 
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Old Mar 16, 2020 | 07:42 PM
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The generator in my '64 did the same. The brushes were very very worn. Replaced them and it works great.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2020 | 07:47 PM
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Red Generator Light

Originally Posted by john jamieson
The generator in my '64 did the same. The brushes were very very worn. Replaced them and it works great.
Did your 64 have an alternator or a generator?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2020 | 07:49 PM
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It's a generator.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2020 | 08:43 PM
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I am having an issue with my alt. Idiot light as well, but mines a 1966 with a 352. I know the belt tension is good, but I don’t know where to start at, as in start searching for a bad connection/ weak voltage. It did go off once when going over bumps, Which makes me think it’s a bad ground somewhere. But again don’t know where to start looking

Also, I think this may have something to do with it: I can turn the lights on without even having the key in. All that it needs is for the batter to be connected (don’t think this is correct)

where should I start searching?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2020 | 10:53 PM
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Corrosion is a usual culprit in electrical failure in older vehicles. Check and clean all connections and get rid of any wire nuts that might have been used. You can use a soda blaster for the hard to clean connectors.

And you the lights work without the key.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2020 | 05:49 AM
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Alternators replaced Generators for some very good reasons. Maintenance is just one of them. Nobody has to perform any preventive maintenance an alternator, not in practice anyway. However generators can be made to work absolutely fine, too. You want the Shop Manual, because it will tell you how it works, and how to check it, and how to isolate and troubleshoot it.

You want the '64 shop manual. Nod your head "yes".. Or have somebody copy it and email it to you.

It is normal for the red Generator light to flicker or illuminate now and then at very low RPM. When you turn the key to RUN, it should light up. This tells you the bulb is OK. It should go out after starting.

They use an external, mechanical point type regulator mounted on the fender apron with 3 relays - 1ea for cutout, voltage, and current. If taking the generator off, disassembling, cleaning, checking or replacing and sanding brushes isn't your idea of fun, then install an alternator. I kept it just because they are cool in their own way. But most people don't want to mess around with them. Do it once, do it right, or don't bother.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2020 | 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Christmas
Corrosion is a usual culprit in electrical failure in older vehicles. Check and clean all connections and get rid of any wire nuts that might have been used. You can use a soda blaster for the hard to clean connectors.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vuENNhOMQs

And you the lights work without the key.

thanks for that video I’ll for sure be making one and cleaning up little bits. So it’s normal to use lights without a key?
 
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Old Mar 21, 2020 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by instig8r63
Brushes are losing contact on the armature.
The springs holding the brushes to the armature could be weakening.
It is easy to swap over to a 3-wire GM alternator or to a Ford 3G alternator.
how do I go about swapping to an alternator? Do I need to get a different voltage regulator, which wires go where. Will it fit using my current generator mounts?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by AidenG
how do I go about swapping to an alternator? Do I need to get a different voltage regulator, which wires go where. Will it fit using my current generator mounts?
You do not use an external regulator.
You may have to modify your brackets. I used a 1994 Mustang 5.0 130A alternator and a Painless #30831 3G alternator harness in my 72 short bed.
My 63 Uni has a 3 wire GM alternator.
Here is the wiring diagram for the 3G..


 
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Old Apr 19, 2020 | 05:32 PM
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I had same problem with my 62 F100 Generator. Gen Light came on and stayed on. Batt not being charged. Took the gen off the truck, opened it up by following the shop manual an found a broken brush spring. Ordered two new ones from C G Ford Parts for $2.95 each and put hem back in. Shop manual is very clear on the directions and provided a few good tips. Reinstalled and works like a champ.
 
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