Just replaced all GPs and plugs to them. Trying to upgrade my GPR to the stancor but not 100% on the wiring for it. My PSD was easy because of all the write-ups online. The idi GPR is different because of the pedestal and bus bar on it. Anyone have a pic they can post of how they wired theirs and how it’s mounted. Thanks

 

I just mounted mine next to the starter Relay on my 93... I use manual control, I don't even have the OEM controller installed anymore.

 

IF you are trying to use it with the controller then you will find it easier to remove the controller first and then do mods to make the Stancor bolt to the controller and you will have to bend the Shunt Bar as required.



this shows OEM wiring and modded for manual control.

 

at this point I was aiming to just continue using controller. I didn’t use that shunt when I originally hooked it up and now I’m afraid I screwed something up.
when I first changed out all the plugs I turned the key to see how long wts light came on for. It was on for at least 10 seconds so I was excited. It originally would only come on for maybe 5 seconds. 2 of the wires were actually severed.
so before actually starting I decided to hook up the stancor. I compared it to my PSD and also another write up I found online of a psd. Thought I had it right. Went to try and start and WTS light came on for 3 seconds. Thought ****, might as well see if she starts. No go. So I hooked factory one back up and now I don’t even get a WTS light. Great. I spent hours changing out plugs and wires on this damn van only to possibly mess something up at the end. I never used that bus bar to connect back to that stud on the plastic pedestal so maybe I burnt something up?

 

the buss bar has to be there for the controller to function it is for current sensing for the controller... if current is not sensed between the Green and yellow wires the controller will not function properly.

it's been at least 20 years since I have repaired any of these controllers But IF I remember right .... what generally happens when the Grn and Yellow wire are disconnected is that the controller fires the relay and when current is not detected it disables the relay.. this happens real fast, and also the correct plugs must be installed because they are used as a PTC sensor for After Glow and if the resistance in the GP Circuit is incorrect you get stupid stuff like constant cycling of the Relay.... The Controller also has Thermal sensor inside of it too... one day I'll dig up my old schematics from where I Reversed engineered these controllers and maybe post a schematic, because I don't think there are any floating around the Internet.

So to answer the question... it's possible the controller could be damaged by not being connected correctly ... try hook it up as it should be.... also I'm not sure what the coil Resistance is on the OEM relay and if the Stancor which is 21 Ohm is compatible with the Controller ..... this is why I went the Manual route when I did mine and that was at least 15 years ago.

 

I tried to subvert the bus bar by hooking green/yellow/brown to one stud together. I also mounted the GPR to the stud coming out of controller that the bus bar was attached to. At the time I didn’t think that stud had any value to it so at this point I’m assuming I fried it. Awesome

 

So I bought new motorcraft GPR/controller...$130. And still same symptoms. No WTS light and no start. Could I have possibly ruined all my brand new plugs? I just don’t see that as likely. Before I start testing all the plugs, is there anywhere obvious I should be looking? I’m assuming there’s no fuse that could be responsible.

 

GP system troubleshoot guide......Maybe the Light bulb is bad ?

 

Nice guide. I’ll tackle it tomorrow. I don’t have a test light but may get one . I was reading on other threads that test lights are a better indicator than resistance readings?

also I measured voltage on the GPR terminals. The only terminal that’s reading is the one that the hot lead is tied to. All other ones don’t read anything regardless if the key is turned or not. I would think that’s a bad GPR/controller but how can both new and old be doing exact same thing. Maybe plugs are shot and telling controller not to give any power to other terminals? Regardless I’m going to test all my plugs first chance I get

 

so I failed pinpoint test A5 which is telling me the solution is either charge the batteries, which that isn’t the problem, service wiring (which I guess I can trace the two red wires back to wherever they go, or check fusable link. The fusable link sounds most likely but where is that link? I didn’t think they had any fuses related to it

 

figure 17 from the run switch terminal... it passes thru the firewall connector to the engine harness


I've seen the wires fry at that Engine connector a few times in the past.

 

here is another schematic of the system ...



now IF this is on your 1984 IDI that is in your profile then it's hard to say how someone Wired your truck

 

Ok I see. So the link I’m looking for should be under the dash before it passes thru firewall? Hopefully it’s the same set up as a truck but it’s a van I’m working on. Also it’s a 94 not 84, but maybe that’s what you meant

 

no I saw 1984 F150 in your profile..... But OK you have cleared up we are working on a 94

Fuse link C and D are on the starter Relay Battery terminal... I don't think that is your problem as you have Fire on the Glow Plug Relay Large terminal... the problem seems to be from the Ignition switch the Red/LtGRN wires that go to the small Rectangle Engine connector ... I know the Van wiring is a bit different... but not so much for the GP system.

 

oh shoot I forgot about that truck . Got rid of her like 10 years ago 😅