When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi. I live in the UK. Have chance of buying a 2010 F350 with the 6.4 powerstroke in it with only 52,000 miles. I have heard of all the horror stories,is it still possible to buy out of the USA,the EGR modification and the DPF filter modification and if so,could anyone put me onto a company who would have all the modifications and and ship to the UK. Also what is everyones opinion,should I buy it?
I believe they are available. If not them, Sinister diesel.
Denny
We never stepped into the 6.4L market farther than intercooler boots, and specialize only in the 94-07 7.3L and 6.0L. Emissions deletes weren't ever something we looked into dealing with the older trucks, but I think Sinister has them.
I recently deleted the DPF and EGR on mine and was able to purchase the pipe (deleted the CAT/DPF), the tuner (I bought an H&S Mini Maxx), and the EGR delete kit all found on Ebay at good prices. Not sure if they ship overseas or not, so you'll have to look around some. There were also sellers who had SCT X4's with delete tunes on them that I found on Ebay, but I opted for the Mini Maxx since with the others you had to specify the tune you wanted from the options they had (you could get them with either 1 or multiple tunes on them) and I wasn't sure what I wanted so got a tuner that has multiple options pre-loaded.
Rudys in north carolina does a lot with 6.4's. when i had my 2010 thats where i got my EGR delete, spartan tuner, MBRP downpipe, flo pro DP back exhaust, and S&B intake. on Ebay, they used to have kits you could buy that had all this in it for one great price. not sure if they ship overseas but worse come worst give them a call or shoot them an email.
P. lifter problem resulting in fragmenting of the lifter filled by taking out the engine.
S. Replace lifters with new ones if you have the engine apart for other reasons. Else, include n rebuild.
P. Cam lobes that wear down.
s. Replace cam with a cam that has a wider base circle if you have the engine apart for other reasons. Else include in rebuild.
p. Rocker push rods that bend .
s. Replace push rods with stage 2 rods
s. Ensure if you shave your heads, that gaskets are used to keep push rod length geometry
p. Broken rockers, worn rockers, dropped rocker ***** ,rockers with no tips
s. Replace rockers as an assembly
p. vanishing coolant with oil level increase.
s. Probable water pump cavitation
s. Probable egr leak
p. Oil level always increase by qts
s. Probable oil / fuel contamination due to inefficient regens
s. Probable leak in fuel pump drive gear seal
s. Probable leak from metal fuel lines
p. Engine wrench symbol , engine does not start .
s. Probable secret Ford money maker....egt#3 defective. Big problem and ford should have recalled this.
s. Probable foiled injectors....pour half a bottle of injector cleaner into engine bay fuel filter ...attempt restart
s. Probable gel’ed fuel filters. .....replace filters and follow fuel system prime methods
s. Probable bad under chasis lift pump....check for fuse problem....possible bad pump
p. Loss of power...can’t pass an old lady pushing a baby carriage up a hill
s. Possible clogged intake manifold caused by caking of injected oil from oil vent system.
a couple more
p. Engine skips during start, if it runs..has loss of power...shortly after the problem begins ...engine seizes or undergoes other catastrophic failure.
s. Possible hole in piston cause by seized injectors which were clogged as a result of failed fuel pump.
s. Possible heat damage from running firmware tunes in an attempt to boost the power of the engine.
p. I’m spending too much time working on this thing
s. Trade it in, or sell it.
p. What should I keep in the truck
s. Cell phone and AAA membership. Tool box in case you have no reception.
Not to be a jerk, but Speakerfritz is right. His post explains it quite well. Truth is, you really can't make them "dependable". A delete may help, but the tuning that is used may increase the head pressure (advance the timing) too much. And if it doesn't, the factory Ford pistons have a design flaw that allows them to crack. Mine was rebuilt 17,000 miles ago and the valve train is quite noisy. To solve that will require pulling the motor again. I've replaced the front cover. 3 months later cracked 3 pistons. After the rebuild it now has an electrical gremlin that no one has been able to figure out, I think I know where it is though. The dash goes crazy, gauges quit working momentarily, including tach and speedometer, all the warning lights flash, but the truck keeps running. I have over $30,000.00 in a truck that I paid $12,000.00 for. With 283,000 miles on it, I doubt I could get $5,000.00 for it. Maybe $2,000.00 if the utility bed was removed. Asking to make a 6.4 reliable is like asking how to make your wife stop being a ****. You can't. You either drive it and pray it last till you get rid of it, or you get rid of it now. A cummins swap is an option, I wish I would've done that.
The EGR and DPF delete isn't a bad idea, but it's not the cure that it is with the 6.0.
Not to be a jerk, but Speakerfritz is right. His post explains it quite well. Truth is, you really can't make them "dependable". A delete may help, but the tuning that is used may increase the head pressure (advance the timing) too much. And if it doesn't, the factory Ford pistons have a design flaw that allows them to crack. Mine was rebuilt 17,000 miles ago and the valve train is quite noisy. To solve that will require pulling the motor again. I've replaced the front cover. 3 months later cracked 3 pistons. After the rebuild it now has an electrical gremlin that no one has been able to figure out, I think I know where it is though. The dash goes crazy, gauges quit working momentarily, including tach and speedometer, all the warning lights flash, but the truck keeps running. I have over $30,000.00 in a truck that I paid $12,000.00 for. With 283,000 miles on it, I doubt I could get $5,000.00 for it. Maybe $2,000.00 if the utility bed was removed. Asking to make a 6.4 reliable is like asking how to make your wife stop being a ****. You can't. You either drive it and pray it last till you get rid of it, or you get rid of it now. A cummins swap is an option, I wish I would've done that.
The EGR and DPF delete isn't a bad idea, but it's not the cure that it is with the 6.0.
Sounds like your truck could've used some love. Maybe mine is the exception but, I recently went over 300,000 miles. I bought it new in 2009. Mine has been relatively problem free. Nothing out of the ordinary, other than replacing the radiator, at about 130,000 miles. Short of that, it's been routine maintenance only.
I'm a Contractor so, I've certainly done my fair share of pulling, & loading. Was towing a dump trailer just today with it. Wasn't too heavy, I was towing roughly 9,000 lbs. I think the key to these trucks is regular maintenance, respecting them, & getting rid of the DPF's. I run a stock tune & deleted my DPF a couple hundred thousand miles ago.