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Assuming F-100 or F-150, the frame is 1/8" whereas F-250 and 350s have thicker metal. 2X on measuring. You'll also want to make sure that the hole that accommodates the core (radiator) support is of the proper diameter and located correctly b/c this aligns everything on the front clip (hood, fenders, grille, etc.). Thus, it would be good to create a template from a frame in better condition.
I bought the set of washers. Are these washers to be welded flush or set upon the frame? Driver side radiator core support. It seems like someone welded a washer (spacer) onto the frame. Passenger side radiator core support. No washer installed yet.
Normally, it is flush since it is just a hole in the frame for the core support bushings. Making a template or taking measurements to properly locate the hole would definitely be a good idea. I wonder what the OP ended up doing since this is an old thread?
It came from the factory with just the hole in the frame. So anything that sits above it was added or is left behind rusted to frame hardware. Any height you add in one place may be necessary to add at all body mounting points in order to get the body panels to line up. I like to scribe the washer circumference on the frame or perch and use my die grinder to get the hole enlarged to my scribed circle. This gives me an idea of what's left of frame metal in order to determine whether a larger repair is needed by plating the frame.
My factory bushings had a stack of washers between frame and core support. Just check your body line looking down the dent or pull a string on the dent front to back and add or remove washers until aligned.
The frame rail is only 1/8" thick? Really?
Or are you talkikng about the cross member?
The frame section where the radiator core support attaches, it’s only 1/8” thickness. I bought flat metal stock that is exactly the same thickness. I need to just cut out the old, insert all new and insert new hole to take the new bushing. The cross member is farther back on the frame.
There is a chart that shows the thickness for models. I tried to find and looked but failed. Builders guide?
The following information came from a Highboy facts compilation somebody put together.
The following are listed below: Frame ID, height in inches of frame rail
just behind the cab, width of frame rail, thickness of rail, SM is
section modulus (one component of frame strength), WB is wheelbase,
years produced, model, and cab type (where CC is Crew Cab, RC is Regular
Cab, and SC is SuperCab):
*The information on these frames differs from that of the source, because
it is strongly suspected that the source was incorrect, suggesting these
Lowboy frames were identical to the Highboy frames. The dimensions and
section modulus has been changed to that of the later Lowboy.
1973-1979 Ford frame information above was obtained from the following
publication: Ford 1973/79 Truck Series 100-500 Master Parts and
Accessories Catalog, Section 50, p.2-4. Numerous other non-Highboy frame
dimensions were not included.
The Highboy Regular Cab frame is the strongest for its wheelbase, tying
with some F-350's at SM=5.58, though it breaks the tie because it has an
additional crossmember that is not taken into account, as it shouldn't be,
when calculating section modulus. The Highboy Regular Cab frame is 28.8%
stronger than the Lowboy Regular Cab frame, and the Highboy Crew Cab frame
is 9.8% stronger than the Lowboy Crew Cab frame. The Lowboy SuperCab is
the strongest F-250 frame, and the F-350 Crew Cab has the strongest frame.
### Chrysler/GM Comparisons
1975 Dodge W200, 131 WB, 3.88 SM
1979 Chevrolet K20, 3.92 SM
There are no 1973-1979 Ford F-250 frames, whether 4x2 or 4x4, that are as
weak as the 1975 Dodge W200 131-inch wheelbase, or the 1979 Chevrolet K20.
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