Truck has 60K miles. It has been driven very little since the late 90s. Gas is fresh. I'm an old points and condenser guy so I'm lost. I've changed plugs, wires , distributor cap and rotor. No engine light but Truck runs rough at idle and sputters really bad under acceleration especially when in gear. I have no idea where to go from here. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

 

Points and condenser? Not be critical but you should really move along into at least the 1980’s. I have a couple trucks that still have points but don’t use them as a daily driver.

Even though the check engine light is not on there could still be fault codes present. That is where I suggest you start. You could also check the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve on the fuel rail.

 

Thanks for your help. What I meant was that's about the last cars I wrenched on. I'm a 21st century guy. Buy new, carry to dealership and let someone else work on it. I inherited this truck though and I'd really like to get it straightened out
myself

 

Warm up the truck then do this to run the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) tests and Stored Code display: How To Run A Self Test

Or save yourself some anguish then purchase a code reader such as the Innova/Equus 3145. Usually can be found for ~$20 USD.

 

Thanks

thanks

 

I just realized that the page you linked to was from the Ryan McCormick's old site rla. Was "fordfuelinjection.com" until Ford asked him to change it. Also RJMinjectiontech.com.
Cool to see that old stuff. He put together some really good information, so definitely keep the link and use the other buttons on the right of that page to navigate around the old site.

But I've seen this a couple of times now. Some instructions have you jumper the #2 (SIG-RTN) and (edit: the separate connector) (Self Test-IN) pins to each other. While others, including this one have you ground them to the vehicle battery or body. Are they both correct?
Or is one completely wrong and only the other correct? If so, which one?
Thanks

By the way Highrollers, one other thing to check is that power to the PCM itself is sufficient. I've seen (and had) situations where the power relay to the computer was compromised and not getting full power to where it was supposed to be.
In my case it just would not start, but in another recent one the member was saying that the engine ran like crap and the power relay was corroded and not making good contact.

Not sure where ours are on the '93 (I have a '93 w/5.8) but it should be easy to find, test and, if needed, replace.

Good luck

Paul

 

Both methods are correct. Using Pin 2 simulates using a code reader. Going directly to ground/battery negative is electrically the same point.

 

Pin #6 is fuel pump and not Self Test-IN.

Attachment 281523

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Ahh, thanks. Didn't sound right having both work, but I guess it does.

Oops! You're right.
I knew what I meant, but didn't say it. Thanks.
I'll go correct my question even though it probably won't ever mess anybody up. You never know.

Paul

 

I once had a similar problem with a OBD1 truck that turned out to be the Baro sensor .