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Ok, heres the situation. 1996 Ford F250 7.3l; replaced rear drums/shoes, rotors/pads, master cylinder. MC was bench bled, and system has been bled from every wheel and proportioning valve. When truck is off, pedal is firm. When truck is started, pedal mushes all the way down. Im suspecting a defective MC. Your expertise is needed! Thank you!
every thread i seem to read is either A, referencing the zero loss booster; B, problem solved without them understanding what fixed it; C, never get an answer on the fix.
When I try to find the zero loss brake booster part #F5TZ-2005-CA, it appears to be a discontinued part. At this point, I probably have nearly $900 into the brake system and need to get this fixed
How did you bench bleed it? MC has a bad seal or system is not bled correctly. Nothing else it could be unless a wheel cylinder is dumping fluid and you cannot see it.
There is no way you have $900 into a fully new brake system on one of these trucks.
How did you bench bleed it? MC has a bad seal or system is not bled correctly. Nothing else it could be unless a wheel cylinder is dumping fluid and you cannot see it.
There is no way you have $900 into a fully new brake system on one of these trucks.
Sorry, $650; still not a number i am thrilled with. Was expecting maybe $300 when I bought the truck
$300 for rear drums/shoes/wheel cylinders, rear ebrake cables + I had the shop do the rears with a flush for about $150
$200 for front rotors and pads
$15 parking brake switch
About $150 for new MC with shop install. I only agreed to it, bc they made it sound like this would fix the system, and I just wanted it done.
The shop said to bring it back tomorrow for them to try and figure it out. I pulled an abs module from the junkyard i might tell them to change and make sure to bleed the entire system properly. But before I left the shop the last time, I told the guy it sounded like a defective MC. Ive run across many a defective MC, as these things sit on shelves too long and dry out the seals. Ill let them work on it all day tomorrow at their expense, if they cant fix it, ill demand some sort of refund and figure it out myself.
Fixed! So apparently the truck needs to be running in order to properly bleed the ABS module. Shop said a ton of air came out of it when they had it running. Shocked I could not find info about this earlier. Also, I believe the proper sequence is RR LR ABS FR FL
good info on keep it running for bleeding
I bleed with power off on all past non ABS cars n trucks
Some ABS systems even need a programmer to bleed them.
Hopefully they did it for free. You paid out the nose.
Make sure you have that updated switch on the MC with harness, Ford still does the recall free apparently...but for $20, you are better off ordering yourself to save time.
Hopefully they did it for free. You paid out the nose.
Make sure you have that updated switch on the MC with harness, Ford still does the recall free apparently...but for $20, you are better off ordering yourself to save time.
When my last truck caught fire the insurance guy looked at that harness first to see if it was there.