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Brake help needed

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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 06:55 PM
  #1  
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Brake help needed

Ok, heres the situation. 1996 Ford F250 7.3l; replaced rear drums/shoes, rotors/pads, master cylinder. MC was bench bled, and system has been bled from every wheel and proportioning valve. When truck is off, pedal is firm. When truck is started, pedal mushes all the way down. Im suspecting a defective MC. Your expertise is needed! Thank you!
 
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 07:46 PM
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IIRC, its most likely you booster, look at "Zero loss- brake booster" and find info on it.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 08:40 PM
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every thread i seem to read is either A, referencing the zero loss booster; B, problem solved without them understanding what fixed it; C, never get an answer on the fix.
When I try to find the zero loss brake booster part #F5TZ-2005-CA, it appears to be a discontinued part. At this point, I probably have nearly $900 into the brake system and need to get this fixed
 
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 09:00 PM
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Try gravity bleeding, worked for me after all other attempts.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965
Try gravity bleeding, worked for me after all other attempts.
I agree with this. Sounds like you still have air in there some where and it can be a pain to get out.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 09:01 AM
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I had a similar issue on my previous powerstroke. I did a gravity bleed and had good brakes afterwards. It takes a few hours but is really easy.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by z31freakify
IIRC, its most likely you booster, look at "Zero loss- brake booster" and find info on it.
Sorry to bother wasting a comment, but what in the world does "IIRC" stand for? I see that all over forums and have no idea what it is😂
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 09:41 AM
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How did you bench bleed it? MC has a bad seal or system is not bled correctly. Nothing else it could be unless a wheel cylinder is dumping fluid and you cannot see it.

There is no way you have $900 into a fully new brake system on one of these trucks.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Powerstroke.Alix
Sorry to bother wasting a comment, but what in the world does "IIRC" stand for? I see that all over forums and have no idea what it is😂
IIRC stands for “if I remember correctly. That is IIRC. lol
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 12:40 PM
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https://www.thedieselstop.com/thread...ly-why.226994/

good info there
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
How did you bench bleed it? MC has a bad seal or system is not bled correctly. Nothing else it could be unless a wheel cylinder is dumping fluid and you cannot see it.

There is no way you have $900 into a fully new brake system on one of these trucks.
Sorry, $650; still not a number i am thrilled with. Was expecting maybe $300 when I bought the truck
$300 for rear drums/shoes/wheel cylinders, rear ebrake cables + I had the shop do the rears with a flush for about $150
$200 for front rotors and pads
$15 parking brake switch
About $150 for new MC with shop install. I only agreed to it, bc they made it sound like this would fix the system, and I just wanted it done.

The shop said to bring it back tomorrow for them to try and figure it out. I pulled an abs module from the junkyard i might tell them to change and make sure to bleed the entire system properly. But before I left the shop the last time, I told the guy it sounded like a defective MC. Ive run across many a defective MC, as these things sit on shelves too long and dry out the seals. Ill let them work on it all day tomorrow at their expense, if they cant fix it, ill demand some sort of refund and figure it out myself.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 03:30 PM
  #12  
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Fixed! So apparently the truck needs to be running in order to properly bleed the ABS module. Shop said a ton of air came out of it when they had it running. Shocked I could not find info about this earlier. Also, I believe the proper sequence is RR LR ABS FR FL
 
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 01:06 PM
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good info on keep it running for bleeding
I bleed with power off on all past non ABS cars n trucks
Some ABS systems even need a programmer to bleed them.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 04:34 PM
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Hopefully they did it for free. You paid out the nose.

Make sure you have that updated switch on the MC with harness, Ford still does the recall free apparently...but for $20, you are better off ordering yourself to save time.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Hopefully they did it for free. You paid out the nose.

Make sure you have that updated switch on the MC with harness, Ford still does the recall free apparently...but for $20, you are better off ordering yourself to save time.
When my last truck caught fire the insurance guy looked at that harness first to see if it was there.
 
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