When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello again, I have a 89 Clubwagon xl with a 302 auto. When I bought it it ran a little rough, and started a little hard. I have since changed plugs, wires, the entire distributor, the fuel pressure regulator and I also replaced the transmission lines and filter. Now it will not start! I have good spark and fuel pressure at the schrader valve ( about 40 psi) I back probed the injectors and no power at all not sure what’s next any help helps thanks
Upon further inspection I found a small amount of white crusty shmaltz on the bottom of the Ecm could this kill only the injectors? It will try to pop off with a little puff of starting fluid but I’m not a big fan of it. Any help helps thanks
Check your grounds. I think the ecm grounds through the mounting to the body so check that it isn't corroded. That '89 should have about 50 lbs. at key-on and 40 while idling. It should actually run with starting fluid for a couple seconds not just a little puff. Make sure your firing order isn't off.
So, the ground is a braided strap and it is like new. I am leaning towards the ecm as there is stuff growing out of it and it is visually swollen. I will recheck the firing order and see what’s what. Any help helps thanks.
Ok, firing order checked from the #1 marked post working ccw it is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 so I’m good there all of the fuel pumps kick on( one in each tank) and the hp pump on the frame rail, I have great spark, checked the coil and each plug, when I say a little puff I mean a millisecond from about a foot away like I said not a huge fan of the go juice.it wants it but the injectors have no power, key on, cranking,acc nothing I tried 6 of 8 injectors (2 and 3 are buried under the intake) both wires. I am so stumped
Could be you've lost the injector signal due a bad connection from the ECM to the injectors OR a relay or fuse has failed. I'm not familiar with that chassis and engine so don't know it's electrical layout so am totally guessing.
Its possible the burns on the just replaced ECM are related to the loss of electrical signal to the injectors---I would bet they're related.
In your first post you said you tuned it up as well as changed the distributor. Did it start and run after all of that work or did it quit starting during part of that work?
Have you tried pulling codes? Have you checked all of the fuses and relays? My van is a 1988 with a 5.0 and yours should be about the same. The injectors should have constant 12 volts when the ignition switch is in the run or start position and the ECM switches the grounds. Do you have 12 volts at the injectors with the ignition switch on?
You mentioned the braided ground strap for the ECM. Is the ECM support bracket that the ground strap fastens to in tact? Mine was broken on the bottom. The bracket works a clamp to ground the ECM.
The strap is in good shape,and the bracket is like new. I even took a piece of 120 grit sand paper and scuffed the ground strap connections. When I purchased the van it had already been worked on, also I pulled a rodent nest out from under the intake.(1-2-3-4 side) I found a vac line melted due to not being routed correctly I can only hope for a chewed or pinched wire any input is welcomed and I will keep updating until it runs.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.