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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 01:27 PM
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Electric fuel pump issues

Any of you guys switched to electric fuel pumps and keep going through them like water?

I had a Holley pump on it, lasted quite a while before it quit pumping. I then bought a 95p mr gasket. It ended up doing the same in under a year. I swapped it on the side of the road for a $60 edelbrock they sell at oreilly,, it didn’t last 2 weeks so I took it back and got another. It didn’t last a week. 😡😡

these are all self regulated so no reg needed. There is no return line but I shouldn’t need one. When I check voltage it’s all great. Filters are clean ( one between tank/pump, one on pump, one at carb.

I’ll be driving along and truck will start sputtering until it dies or I jump out and smack pump a few times. I’m afraid to drive my truck anymore and I’m sick of it. If I can’t figure out what’s going on, I’ll just go back to mechanical. On that note, will a stock pump feed an 850 ed?

thoughts??
 
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 01:32 PM
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I've had good luck with the Carter pumps. The pump needs to set as low as possible and as close to the tank a you can. Also need to be sure it's not sucking air or clogging from rust. Same for the in tank screen/sock.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 01:44 PM
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I have it mounted in frame just in front of the fuel tank switch.

im wondering if the pickup in tank has something going on.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 04:41 PM
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Lack of fuel/heat is what usually kills an elec fuel pump. Also best to mount it as close to the fuel source as possible. Some say "Electric pumps push fuel much better than they can pull it". So yea looks like it is time to drop the tank and ck the condition of the pick up tube filter sock and see where the end of the tube is in relation to the bottom part of the tank. Might as well put a new sending unit in since you are right there. I am full of good ideas huh?

Great read here. Electric Fuel Pump: How to Do It Right
I like the way they wire it to a oil pressure switch, motor stope power to the pump stops. Is yours wired to 12V key power? Truck motor dies/ worse case crash...key still on, elec pump still pumping fuel. Next thing you know you are running around like Ricky Bobby all on fire. Stop, drop and roll Ricky Bobby.

 
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 05:14 PM
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I switched to back tank and nothing changed. 😑😑😑
 
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 07:39 PM
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To get my 77 F150 running when I first got it 4 years ago (factory mechanical pump was junk) I just went to Napa and picked up they’re standard electric pump to see if I could get the truck running. That Napa pump has been on the truck 4 years now. Yes same story I only drive it spring thru late fall. As soon as snow hits....truck is parked for the winter.

So I’m not driving these all the time per say but I haven’t had any issues.

Keep us posted as to what you find.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2020 | 09:23 AM
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Brian 1080,
Check the attached link you tube video, paying attention starting at 10 min and 40 seconds, you'll see how the individual fabricated a plate to mount fuel filters and electric pump in front of the fuel tank. Location appears to enable plenty of air flow to prevent the pump from getting too warm and it looks neat / organized.

 
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Old Feb 22, 2020 | 09:32 AM
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I know you want one pump to work both tanks but I think it is too far away and cavitating (drawing air).. As was mentioned they don't suck very well, If you get any air it will break suction.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2020 | 12:18 PM
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I just have one tank at a time hooked up. Switcher doesn’t work so it’s bypassed
 
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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 01:01 PM
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Brian 1080,
You might give some thought to installing a Derale Fluid Cooler P/N 13310 to help reduce the fuel temp and prolong the electric in-line fuel pump.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...QaApYpEALw_wcB
 
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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 04:56 PM
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Every one is not asking the real question?
Why are you not running the pump on the motor?
What motor you running that you need a 850 CFM carb!?
At what RPM you running this motor at?

If you want to run electric pumps, yes PUMPS, you need 1 for EACH tank mounted below fuel level so the pump inlets stay wet and NO filter between tank & pump only after electric pumps.
Electric pumps need a full 12 volts - read need to run thru a relay and large gauge wires and need to run thru safety switches so if motor is not running the pump(s) don't run.

With the motor mounted pump no filters between tanks & pump, again only after like the factory did.
Unless you are running a race motor turning over 7000 RPM would you need a better fuel pump and even then maybe not.
I know of a 401 CID running 12 sec in the 1/4 with a 750 CFM carb and a stock motor driven fuel pump with no issues.
Also know of a 304 tuning 6000 at the lights running the stock motor driven fuel pump with no issues.

Go back to stock motor driven pump and smaller carb, maybe 750 or even 650? and drive the truck.
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 08:57 PM
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I highly recommend the CarterP4600HP. It is internally regulated from 4.5 to 7 PSI so no regulator needed. 100GPM, it is very quiet for an external pump. It puts 5psi to my 460 with an 850 double pumper. It even pulls from the top of the tank. I've had it now for about 4 years. $85 on E-Bay. 64 Reviews on Summit 46 are 5 stars. This after back to back Holley pumps from summit failed, one after 14 months and the other after 4 months. This will solve your problem. I should add the 460 is a Ford Racing crate engine in my Cobra and not my truck, for those of you who may be scratching your head at my statement it pulls from the top of the tank.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4600hp
 
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 12:01 AM
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Engine is a bored out 460. Intake/carb/original electric pump were in one of my trucks which also had a Mallory ignition. That thing was junk so I went back to stock dist. Truck ran fine over a year with this setup before problems arose.

truck has dual tanks with a switch (factory) which uses only one at a time. I never got that working so only one tank is connected at a time.

I know the 850 is huge, but it was on it and hasn’t given me any issues other than mileage so no point in changing it

this engine hasn’t had a stock pump since I’ve owned it.

pump is run off of a relay mounted in cab, with a switch to kill it if I need. I do not have a rollover switch.

Pump is mounted inside frame rail at front of side fuel tank. Can’t get any lower or closer to tank.

pump has 12+v verified at pump

no filter before electric pump is not right. How will you keep junk from fuel tank out of pump with no filter. Also, these pumps have the filter built on the inlet side.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 09:05 AM
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I agree on the Carter pump and moving it close to the tank as you can. . When you start sucking air you loose the cooling effect of the fuel and burn the pump up. Mechanical fuel pumps on the engine have a hard time dealing with todays high volativity fuels. think Vapor lock on a street truck.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 09:34 AM
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I would never run a fuel pump without a regulator, pressure gauge, and return line. I have swapped to electric fuel pumps on two of my originally carbureted vehicles- one about 2 years ago and one about 6 years ago. both are still doing great and have a bunch of miles on them. Aeromotive fuel pumps on both.
 
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