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How large/heavy of a cargo trailer would you pull with a '99 F150 long bed with camper shell, the xlt, 5.4LTriton V8 engine? I've been looking at some 6x12s and 7x14s but also saw a sweet 20-footer today.
It has a rather rusty hitch connector and receiver I'll probably replace. Any specific recommendations? I'd like to do something about the rust underneath in general.
}aWell there's a bit more to this than choosing trailer.
If you have not bought the truck yet or even if you did, look at the frame underneath for rust out in the spring shackle areas.
The Hitch bolts to those areas.
Next you need to offer info on what transmission and gear ratio the truck is equipped with.
You should have extra transmission cooling if an automatic.
Based on a 99 owner manual, the rated gross combined weight is 12700 pound for a truck in good condition.
To get the highest weight trailer you can pull legually tow, weigh the truck, then subtract it's weight from 12700.
That is the highest weight you should attempt to tow (fully loaded}, truck and all.
20 foot trailer, loaded will be a tougher pull for a 99.
Then you need mirroir extensions and a trailer brake controller..
Once you consider these items then make a trailer choice.
It's important.
. . . and look on your door sticker for the GCVWR. Then weigh your truck.
GCVWR minus your weight equals how much you can legally tow.
That having been said: Some questions etc.:
How many miles on this truck?
How many miles have you owned it?
Is it in a good state of repair?
How much of the truck's driving will be towing this trailer?
Are you towing far or near?
Are you towing in Kansas (or similar) or Colorado (or similar) ?
Frontal area of the trailer is a significant factor in your seat-of-the-pants feel of the truck when you're towing. If you can go narrower and less-tall then you'll drag less air all the time.
If it were me, I wouldn't max it out unless you are not going to be towing a lot. I'd keep it a couple thousand pounds below the GCVWR.
. . . and look on your door sticker for the GCVWR. Then weigh your truck.
GCVWR minus your weight equals how much you can legally tow.
That having been said: Some questions etc.:
How many miles on this truck?
How many miles have you owned it?
Is it in a good state of repair?
How much of the truck's driving will be towing this trailer?
Are you towing far or near?
Are you towing in Kansas (or similar) or Colorado (or similar) ?
Frontal area of the trailer is a significant factor in your seat-of-the-pants feel of the truck when you're towing. If you can go narrower and less-tall then you'll drag less air all the time.
If it were me, I wouldn't max it out unless you are not going to be towing a lot. I'd keep it a couple thousand pounds below the GCVWR.
The truck has 230k miles on it, in good repair. I was planning to convert the cargo trailer, may live in full time to be honest. It'll be in North Georgia, some hills but mostly small town and surrounding highway travel. Possibly Florida if I can manage 😄 The cargo trailers I was looking at are all tandem axle as I just noticed. Might be too heavy
When I had my 02 SCab 4x4 5.4 auto 3” BL with 3.55 on 35s with tow tune we used to pull an all steel stock trailer. I want to say it was 16 or 18’. With 1 horse or 2 jersey steers (about 5k total trailer weight) it was manageable. Throw in a second horse or 4 total jerseys (about 6k total trailer weight) and it wasn’t much fun to drive. That trailer had a rounded front like most BP stock trailers do. The truck was happy pulling 5k or less, but was definitely working when pulling more.
The lift and tires were definitely a factor in how mine felt both loaded and unloaded. If your truck has 3.73 rear end towing will probably be a little easier, though a camper in the back is going to dog it.
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