6.2l spark plug change
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6.2l spark plug change
I know the sevice manual says to change with engine warm but here is the situation the front end is currently removed grill rads etc .So I have easy access to do all the plugs now with a room temperature engine. Is the reasoning for the warm engine spark plug removal ?
Thanks
Bill
Thanks
Bill
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 643
Likes: 38
From: LA = Louisiana
I've never had a problem removing plugs on any engine except my prior 2006 F150 5.4L (yes the one with the special tool to get all the plugs that break ….. and all the many TSBs that are little help). I read every TSB, went over and above what the TSBs suggested in prep, and still broke 7 of 8. All came out with the Lisle removal tool …… but..... 1 plug required a little creative procedure to help the tool work on it. But it eventually worked. Absolute PITA. But these were special designed plugs/head on the 5.4L that finally changed in early 2007.
I'm at 70,000 and am planning to go ahead and do mine soon. Have had plugs a couple of months ...……. just need some motivation.
(also have the fuel pump in box to replace ...…. not looking forward to either project)
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 1,250
Likes: 192
From: Livingston Tx
I would say they same...………. but ………….. I'm would bet plenty are changed on an ambient or cool temperature. Especially if you try and do all 16 at once. I did see where someone did one side (8) ………. and ran engine a few minutes and did the other 8.
I've never had a problem removing plugs on any engine except my prior 2006 F150 5.4L (yes the one with the special tool to get all the plugs that break ….. and all the many TSBs that are little help). I read every TSB, went over and above what the TSBs suggested in prep, and still broke 7 of 8. All came out with the Lisle removal tool …… but..... 1 plug required a little creative procedure to help the tool work on it. But it eventually worked. Absolute PITA. But these were special designed plugs/head that finally changed in early 2007.
I'm at 70,000 and am planning to go ahead and do mine soon. Have had plugs a couple of months ...……. just need some motivation.
(also have the fuel pump in box to replace ...…. not looking forward to either project)
I've never had a problem removing plugs on any engine except my prior 2006 F150 5.4L (yes the one with the special tool to get all the plugs that break ….. and all the many TSBs that are little help). I read every TSB, went over and above what the TSBs suggested in prep, and still broke 7 of 8. All came out with the Lisle removal tool …… but..... 1 plug required a little creative procedure to help the tool work on it. But it eventually worked. Absolute PITA. But these were special designed plugs/head that finally changed in early 2007.
I'm at 70,000 and am planning to go ahead and do mine soon. Have had plugs a couple of months ...……. just need some motivation.
(also have the fuel pump in box to replace ...…. not looking forward to either project)
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 112
Likes: 10
From: Champlain Valley, VT
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the truck is a project in my garage unfortunately ive screwed up my shoulder so I haven't been able to do much hopefully ill have enough movement of my arm back shortly to continue
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5th Wheeling
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2016
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I just posted in another thread, but my two cents... I wouldn't put motocraft plugs back into my truck.. maybe I got a bad batch.. but I had 2 burn the stems out in 40k miles.
Pull the wheel covers on either side and pull the intake and then you should have no problem changing the plugs, The bottoms are best changed through the wheel wells.
Pull the wheel covers on either side and pull the intake and then you should have no problem changing the plugs, The bottoms are best changed through the wheel wells.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: College Station, Texas
5th Wheeling
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4wd Low
Joined: Sep 2012
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I believe the reason they say to warm the engine before changing plugs is to reduce the chance of galling the threads, which is more possible with an extremely hot or cold engine.
Secondly, to prevent galling when installing plugs, and making it easier the next time, you should always use never-sieze. In fact, ALL bolt threads on all bolts you reassemble should get never-sieze. I've been using it all my life on everything...it's worth it's weight in gold. And it DOES NOT throw off torque values. (Engine rebuilding manuals instruct to oil all bolt threads to get more accurate bolt torque. Dry bolts bind and you risk under-tightening)
Secondly, to prevent galling when installing plugs, and making it easier the next time, you should always use never-sieze. In fact, ALL bolt threads on all bolts you reassemble should get never-sieze. I've been using it all my life on everything...it's worth it's weight in gold. And it DOES NOT throw off torque values. (Engine rebuilding manuals instruct to oil all bolt threads to get more accurate bolt torque. Dry bolts bind and you risk under-tightening)