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Corroded brake line patch or replace?

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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 08:25 PM
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Corroded brake line patch or replace?

I was under the hood yesterday And I noticed a heavy spot of corrosion about an inch long on one of the lines that runs from the master cylinder to the ABS module on my O2 F250 5.4 4x4. After reading about 20 threads some of which were saying it’s a quarter inch line and some were saying 3/16 I went outside to measure and it seems to be 3/16 which surprised my I was expecting the 1/4” in that spot. So nevertheless I went and bought a double flaring tool and ordered some 3/16 nicopp line off amazon that should arrive tuesday. The line came with a dozen connectors. So now I’m wondering should I replace the whole line or should I just cut the corrosion out and put a small piece of nicopp in its place.
Also if anybody can tell me the bleeding procedure when the line is replaced I would appreciate it usually I would start at the farthest point and work my way forward. But I’ve never done a master cylinder/abs line before and I wasn’t sure if there’s an easier way that I could avoid having to bleed the whole system when I’m done


 
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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 09:11 PM
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Replace the entire8ne would be easier and safer .
Are you certain the line is rusted , the one next to it looks fine .
 
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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ashleyroachclip
Replace the entire8ne would be easier and safer .
Are you certain the line is rusted , the one next to it looks fine .
I’m not certain it appears to have some rust could be very light but u can see under the zip tie it’s all split up. Is that a rubber coating? Its deep cracks on the bend and seems to have corrosion in those cracks
 
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 03:52 AM
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I'd replace the whole line, then you'd have two connection points instead of the four points from a patched in section. And there may be some corrosion in/on that line that you can't see.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2020 | 06:47 AM
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Replace the entire line. Before you disconnect the old one place a board between the seat bottom and brake pedal so the pedal is depressed about two inches. This will prevent the master from bleeding out. When you are done with the line leave the line loose at the ABS, then have someone push the pedal half way down and let the board drop, and only half way. Tighten the connection at the ABS lightly, tell them to release the pedal. Loosen the line nut a little and tell them to push half way again and hold. Tighten the nut again, then they can release the pedal. Repeat this until you have a good flow of fluid out of the lower connection.

Doing it this way sometimes you can avoid getting air into the ABS which will be hell to bleed out.
 
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