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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Radiator size question

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Old Feb 6, 2020 | 06:48 PM
  #16  
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If you are hauling, I would get a Heavy Duty 2 core 1" like this... https://www.jegs.com/i/Champion-Cool...AE433/10002/-1
It's barely more than the spectre and more than solid for anything in the future.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2020 | 07:10 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by ford390gashog
I gave you the link to a 3 core in post 2 that was below all those prices.
Post 11 is the same radiator with fans, shroud and controller for $90 more.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2020 | 09:54 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Christmas
Post 11 is the same radiator with fans, shroud and controller for $90 more.
That same radiator is covered in another thread. Those fans are not sufficient and the shroud is blocking a good majority of the core. You need to pull across the whole core and two fans flat with a flat shroud do nothing but hinder.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2020 | 09:58 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 3000gtman
I saw it but I'm still leaning towards the spectre one from summit. Single core. $156. 1 1/2 tube size. Built in trans cooler. Stock fan setup. I will buy a shroud. If I decide to get electric fans I'll upgrade radiators later.
So you would rather the terrible plastic tank radiator over welded? Seems counter productive here.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2020 | 10:28 PM
  #20  
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Some folks step over dollars to pick up nickels. Those plastic tanks rely on sealant. Kinda like using form a gasket to put the motor together. Not trying to be mean but you did ask for help.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2020 | 07:07 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ford390gashog
I would and I do use the 3 row welded aluminum radiators. The best kept secret in painting them is to actually use vinyl dye as it adheres perfectly and looks way better than paint. I use VHT black vinyl dye.

I bought this one and the seller accepted 145.00
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fit-1968-19...rd!94513!US!-1
VHT Black Vinyl Die? Does it apply thin?

I used a Griffin 2 Row 1-1/4 with twin Spal 12" 1722CFM Electric Fan Units. Would love to make it black and thought about anodize but worry about damage.

CStoyer
 
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Old Feb 8, 2020 | 12:20 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by cstoyer
VHT Black Vinyl Die? Does it apply thin?

I used a Griffin 2 Row 1-1/4 with twin Spal 12" 1722CFM Electric Fan Units. Would love to make it black and thought about anodize but worry about damage.

CStoyer
It applies super thin it doesn't look like paint. Its actually one of the better kept secrets used for bare cast iron and aluminum. The duplicolor black vinyl dye also is a very good substitute for the VHT. Test compatibility in a inconspicuous location first.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2020 | 06:26 AM
  #23  
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Very Cool and thank you ford390gashog. I may only do the fin area that is exposed through the core support first and see how that looks. That is one of the things I did not like about the aluminum radiator as it sticks on a black core support and messes with the look of the grille.

CStoyer
 
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 08:06 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 3000gtman
1968 f250 with the 390 and auto transmission. My rad has a leak inside.
TWO different radiators, TWO different radiator supports, TWO different fan shrouds!

Super Cooling radiator support has a larger opening radius. Measure the height & width of your current radiator.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2020 | 04:00 AM
  #25  
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I'll measure mine. It's missing the fan shroud tho. And I only suggested the spectre rad for its large tubes. Not about $$$ but I'm definitely not spending 300 plus. I saw the one on post 16. I'll probably pick that one. Once I get my measurements of course
 
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Old May 5, 2020 | 11:52 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Christmas
Maybe in 1980. I took mine into re-core and it was $700-800. I wound up with a 3 core welded with dual fans and shroud for $300. Cooling is all about surface area heat dissipation. Takes longer for a larger area to cool than a bunch of little ones.
It was 5 years ago. Although I probably said it wrong when I said re-cored.

The tranny connector had started leaking so he took it completely apart including unsoldering the core from the tanks. He then re-soldered everything back together. That's what he charged me $100 for. I didn't really purchase anything from the guy except his time. This guy is about 60 years old and runs a tiny little shop and all he does is radiators all day long.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2020 | 08:14 AM
  #27  
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Back again. Put this project on hold somewhat. But looking for radiators once again. I appreciate all the feed back but I'm not installing aftermarket fans. I'm not using a chrome rad. I'm keeping it stock. I would pull occasionally but not much. Just my small boat. The cheap one I was looking at is plastic/aluminum. But I would prefer full aluminum. I could get mine fixed but its extremely heavy and why not upgrade at same time. I did some measuring of the full radiator and I can't find anything to my size. Not the core size but the full radiator....I got 25.5 in tall...28in long and 3in thick. Automatic trans so I need the cooler built in the rad. Any suggestions?
 
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Old Nov 27, 2020 | 08:47 AM
  #28  
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My 1970 f250 has 360fe and c6 trans. It has separate small cooler in front of the radiator for the trans. I have never had any overheating issues. Also have 70 f350 with a seperate cooler for the tranny. I hear its better to separate the two but mine just happen to come that way I got them. The f250 I have had since 1996.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2020 | 09:04 AM
  #29  
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I don't have separate one. Just built into the rad. It's not a work horse so I'm not expecting much. If I want to upgrade I'll add separate one later. I've been researching my rad and it's probably best if I just recore. A new one would be ideal but I want my original look
 
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Old Nov 27, 2020 | 09:09 AM
  #30  
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I wont hurt to take it to a radiator shop and let them look at it. I will be taking my super cooling rad for my 72 highboy to the shop soon to get checked out and fixed if necessary.
 
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