Suspension Advice
Current measurements from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender opening:
Driver front - 23"
Passenger front - 23 1/4"
Driver rear - 23 7/8"
Passenger rear 23 9/16"
The camper (Salem 26DBLE) is a 31' with a dry weight of 5900 lbs. and factory hitch weight of 775 lbs. I run an Equilzer weight distributing hitch. The trips we take usually include hauling the generator and enough crap for our family of 4 to last 10 days, I'm guessing it loads out to 6500-6700 lbs.
I don't off-road this at all. I'm not looking to do any sort of suspension lift. I'm not looking to run larger tires. I'd like a comfortable ride but safety while towing is paramount. I may add a Thunder Struck (Ranch Hand-style) grille guard to it at some point, they weigh in the 100-125 lb. range.
Shocks: Is the KYB MonoMax the best for this set-up. 565098 and 565099 for front and rear, respectively.
Front Bump stops: The remaining bump stop has maybe 1" of clearance. Should I just go with a $16 replacement unit from Rockauto or is it worth it to spend $200 on the SumoSprings SSF-109-40 or Timbren FF350SD4?
Front springs: Since they are starting to invert, I'm guessing I should probably replace them at some point. Should I use a factory replacement or go with a V code spring? Or leave it and rely on the SumoSprings or Timbren?
Front sway bar: Any real benefit to upgrading to a Hellwig 7640? I'm not taking this out on the autocross track.
Rear springs: I'm leaning towards the Roadmaster Active Suspension versus the Timbren SES (FREXC4). I think this would suit me better than going to a B code rear spring.
Rear Sway Bar: If I add the Roadmaster Active Suspension, would adding a Hellwig 7643 be beneficial?
Steering stabilizer: I'm ignorant on this, I assume they wear out. The steering is a little sloppy due to what I believe is a worn gear box. Should I replace this thing?
I appreciate any insight you all may have.
Your measurements are almost stock height. Stock is 23" front, 24" rear. the inverted front springs are that way on purpose. If your desire is to keep the stock ride height, I'm not sure I'd change the springs out based on the measurements. I think generally 1" of sag is where you'd want to change them out. And if you were going to do that, I'd stay with the stock X springs. Should probably make sure your bump stops are in good working order. The stock spring configuration will yield the best "ride" when paired with a quality shock. I can't say enough about the KYB monomax in this situation. They're affordable and last a good long time. Steering stabilizer will wear out to, but I must admit that I'm not sure I'd be able to tell the difference with or without one (provided all other components are in good working order.
I'm on the fence as well with the rear sway bar, but a stock front should suffice for your stated goal. I don't run a rear bar, but I have procomp springs and a ride height of 27" all the way around. I don't feel that I need it at all.
Provided that your suspension parts are all in good working order, I can't imagine that you'd have any issues running your camper (provided you're using weight distribution and sway control). I can't see why you'd need the RAS (but then again I've never run it, and people swear by it). Other's will have ideas as well.
Current measurements from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender opening:
Driver front - 23"
Passenger front - 23 1/4"
Driver rear - 23 7/8"
Passenger rear 23 9/16"
The camper (Salem 26DBLE) is a 31' with a dry weight of 5900 lbs. and factory hitch weight of 775 lbs. I run an Equilzer weight distributing hitch. The trips we take usually include hauling the generator and enough crap for our family of 4 to last 10 days, I'm guessing it loads out to 6500-6700 lbs.
I don't off-road this at all. I'm not looking to do any sort of suspension lift. I'm not looking to run larger tires. I'd like a comfortable ride but safety while towing is paramount. I may add a Thunder Struck (Ranch Hand-style) grille guard to it at some point, they weigh in the 100-125 lb. range.
Shocks: Is the KYB MonoMax the best for this set-up. 565098 and 565099 for front and rear, respectively.
Front Bump stops: The remaining bump stop has maybe 1" of clearance. Should I just go with a $16 replacement unit from Rockauto or is it worth it to spend $200 on the SumoSprings SSF-109-40 or Timbren FF350SD4?
Front springs: Since they are starting to invert, I'm guessing I should probably replace them at some point. Should I use a factory replacement or go with a V code spring? Or leave it and rely on the SumoSprings or Timbren?
Front sway bar: Any real benefit to upgrading to a Hellwig 7640? I'm not taking this out on the autocross track.
Rear springs: I'm leaning towards the Roadmaster Active Suspension versus the Timbren SES (FREXC4). I think this would suit me better than going to a B code rear spring.
Rear Sway Bar: If I add the Roadmaster Active Suspension, would adding a Hellwig 7643 be beneficial?
Steering stabilizer: I'm ignorant on this, I assume they wear out. The steering is a little sloppy due to what I believe is a worn gear box. Should I replace this thing?
I appreciate any insight you all may have.
1. kyb monomax would be a great choice if your budget is limited. if you want “the best” then budget $200 per shock snd i can direct you to the people who will build you a shock tuned to meet your goals.
2. front bump stops. OEM ford are the best, dorman will do. sumo springs are fine but not really a bump stop as much as a secondary spring.
3. front springs. based on you measurements your springs are good snd do not need replacing. the slightly inverted is exactly how they are supposed to be.
4. front sway bar, I have yet to see an excursion that needs s larger front sway bar.
5 rear springs.
R.A.S. is a fancy add a leaf. given your stated payload snd hitch weight youshould not need a sdd a lear, you are well within the parameters gord designed into the rear suspension. should you desire a higher higher payload capacity then i strongly suggest going with sir bags snd not a add a leaf.
6. rear sway bar.
”sway bar” is a misnomer, it does nothing for trailer sway but in fact is a anti-roll bar, they are used to control or change body roll and under/over steer.
once again the RAS is a fancy add a leaf not a anti-roll bar. if you are having “sway” issues towing then i suggest you look into your trailer hitch setup and trailer weight bias. despite all the internet lore a sway bar does not prevent trailer sway. lots of people will tell you otherwise but i have yet to see trailer sway issue that was cured by a anti roll bar.
7. you should always replace any worn out steering or suspension parts including the steering damper. yes steering dampers wear out. rule of thumb, if it moves it wears out







