Throttle Actuator?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,918
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
A thank you to everyone for the help. One thing I did before asking any of you for advise was tp modify the square shaft that comes off the bottom of the distributor. It was 1/4" to long for the new distributor so I shortened it so the distributor would seat correctly. The other concern is that I spent time finding TDC for #1 cylinder on the compression stroke so I could get the distributor orientated correctly according the the Haynes manual. The problem comes when I expect the timing marks to line up and they don't but yet I know I have TDC for the compression stroke. The truck ran poorly when I first brought it home, but it did run without missing. I don't know if the crankshaft pulley has been removed and put back on incorrectly. Is there a better way to assure the TDC on compression stroke? And if the timing marks don't align I'm going to remove the pulley and align it correctly. Unless someone can think of something for me to check first.
Timing marks line up to 0 twice, once on exhaust stroke and once again on the compression stroke. You want it lined up on the compression stroke. You could ball up a receipt or paper and lightly stuff it into the #1 plug hole. (don't drop it inside cylinder!)
Then bump the starter until it gets blown out by the compression. Now rotate the crank the final bit to line up to 0 TDC. If you take off the passenger valve cover while you do this, you can verify when the valves are closed--compression stroke.
Then bump the starter until it gets blown out by the compression. Now rotate the crank the final bit to line up to 0 TDC. If you take off the passenger valve cover while you do this, you can verify when the valves are closed--compression stroke.
You can also hold your thumb over the sparkplug hole and turn the engine by hand till it tries to blow your thumb off the hole, and then keep turning it till you hit the marks. Same theory as the paper.
P.S. If you are setting the timing with the computer control type distributor, you need to disconnect the spout connector to take control away from the computer. Then you set it according to the sticker on the radiator and then plug the spout connector back in place.
P.S. If you are setting the timing with the computer control type distributor, you need to disconnect the spout connector to take control away from the computer. Then you set it according to the sticker on the radiator and then plug the spout connector back in place.
Ok the balancer / pulley can only go on the crank 1 way and if the timing marks don't line up the outer ring has moved and the balancer needs to be replaced.
I would also like to know why you needed to make the oil pump drive shorter? Was it for a different motor and all you could get at the time?
Dave ----
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Deming, WA.
I replaced the old computer controlled distributor with a vacuum advance style. When I inserted it into the hole the collar would not meet the engine block. It was about 1/4" from seating. I pushed a little harder but it would not go in any farther. So I thought since it wasn't the same as the OEM distributor that it would have come with a shorter shaft.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,918
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
Did you match up the 2 dist. from the base to the end of pump drive to find the replacement was longer?
Just never hear of anyone needing to do this is all.
Good to hear it turned out good.
Dave ----
Just never hear of anyone needing to do this is all.
Good to hear it turned out good.
Dave ----
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
I replaced the old computer controlled distributor with a vacuum advance style. When I inserted it into the hole the collar would not meet the engine block. It was about 1/4" from seating. I pushed a little harder but it would not go in any farther. So I thought since it wasn't the same as the OEM distributor that it would have come with a shorter shaft.
The problem you had is very common. When you stab the distributor in place, it will engage the gears and twist around, but then the shaft for the oil pump will not be lined up and will not go in. What you do then is pull the dist out, move it a tooth one way or the other and try it again, till the oil pump shaft engages the oil pump. If you cut the oil pump drive part of the dist off, you may not be turning the oil pump anymore. I would pull it back out and compare it to your old distributor. And carefully check this out before you ruin your engine.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Deming, WA.
I have already cut off 1/4". I was thinking if it wasn't engaging the oil pump it would have stuck out further than 1/4". Are all the Ford distributors the same length? Are all the square oil pump shafts the same length?
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
Do you still have your old TFI distributor laying there? I am sure the new dist and the old dist should be the same. All six cylinder distributors would be the same I would think. Move forward very carefully to make sure you do not ruin your engine.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LARIAT 85
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
17
Feb 27, 2022 04:02 PM
hittman1422
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Jan 3, 2010 06:08 PM
d_stange
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Mar 29, 2006 10:24 AM
