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Old Jan 27, 2020 | 06:47 PM
  #1  
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Hard start

Truck is cold blooded. Unless the engine has been ran and is warm, It’s hard to start year round. New motor craft glow plugs. New high torque starter. Still doesn’t like to be started.

12.5 volts on constant post. 10 volts on the output post of the GPR. is 10 volts normal?
 
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Old Jan 27, 2020 | 08:13 PM
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From: Sault St.Marie
They should both be the same.
Try jumping it with a screw driver for 30sec.
Mine needs working glow plugs below 65 deg.
Good luck.
Bob
 
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Old Jan 28, 2020 | 09:17 AM
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Wouldn’t surprise me if motor is just wore out. But hoping for something simple
 
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Old Jan 28, 2020 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobcatbob
They should both be the same.
Try jumping it with a screw driver for 30sec.
Mine needs working glow plugs below 65 deg.
Good luck.
Bob
i just was wondering if the input voltage vs output being lower voltage was any sign of the GPR being bad?
 
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Old Jan 28, 2020 | 12:09 PM
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yes GPR is bad. should have same volts on both terminals

get a stancor

Stancor relay 586-902


 
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Old Jan 29, 2020 | 09:29 PM
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If the relay don't work buy a shim kit for the injector armature should help cure most if not all of your injector problems.
Here's the kit I've used many times in many injectors and works great.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/94-03-7-3L-...oAAOSwZuFdjt5p
 
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Old Jan 30, 2020 | 09:26 PM
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I got a new GPR (Napa (I know you guys are going to shame me but I just decided to try it)

output voltage is equal to input now. About 10.75 , “wait to start light” actually comes on and stays on for about 5 seconds max, starts about the same. Maybe a little better.

I guess I should OHM the glow plug wires and check resilience make sure there’s no messed up connections ?
 
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Old Jan 30, 2020 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by z31freakify
If the relay don't work buy a shim kit for the injector armature should help cure most if not all of your injector problems.
Here's the kit I've used many times in many injectors and works great.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/94-03-7-3L-...oAAOSwZuFdjt5p
do you have to pull the injectors out to use it?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 07:35 AM
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No you can do it with the injectors in place.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 08:02 AM
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10.75 v ? Have you checked your batteries? Separate and do a draw down test. If you are only getting 10.75 from battery, that sounds low to me.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 10:13 AM
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I think the WTS light illumination time is set via oil temperature. In temps under 40F and when I forget to plug into my timer, I wait for the light to extinguish then watch 10 seconds click off on my wristwatch, then crank. When into the 20s, I wait 30 seconds. The Stancore is bigger than the standard size GPR, but I would rather have a working any brand unit than none. You can always do the Stancore later, keep the stocker for a spare. I did.

Output voltage with engine off glowing seems low, but I have no idea. They pull quite a bit of *** to preheat. A basic $4 Harbor Freight test light can give you a quickie idea if all your GPs are working.

Installing the armature shims is not too hard, helped cold starts for me. The instructions are quite poor, check my thread for details.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
I think the WTS light illumination time is set via oil temperature. In temps under 40F and when I forget to plug into my timer, I wait for the light to extinguish then watch 10 seconds click off on my wristwatch, then crank. When into the 20s, I wait 30 seconds. The Stancore is bigger than the standard size GPR, but I would rather have a working any brand unit than none. You can always do the Stancore later, keep the stocker for a spare. I did.

Output voltage with engine off glowing seems low, but I have no idea. They pull quite a bit of *** to preheat. A basic $4 Harbor Freight test light can give you a quickie idea if all your GPs are working.

Installing the armature shims is not too hard, helped cold starts for me. The instructions are quite poor, check my thread for details.
oh ok. I thought you had to ohm the glow plugs. I have a test light too I’ll check in on how to do the test with it.

yeah I had my batteries checked a month ago. All seemed well but I thought that was low voltage too
 
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 10:50 AM
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Ohm test better and more precise.

Test light is just a quick test for open circuit.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by DanielT28
oh ok. I thought you had to ohm the glow plugs. I have a test light too I’ll check in on how to do the test with it.

yeah I had my batteries checked a month ago. All seemed well but I thought that was low voltage too
I just had a less than 3 yr old battery on passenger side go south. Voltage showed 12.5 but when I put a load test on it, it went into red 0 volts. = bad battery. something to check. Do them separate.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Ohm test better and more precise.

Test light is just a quick test for open circuit.
bunch of oil in valve cover harness connections, where is it coming from?
I tried to ohm it only getting .1 on passenger side


Oil inside passenger VCH connection

 
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