When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Truck is cold blooded. Unless the engine has been ran and is warm, It’s hard to start year round. New motor craft glow plugs. New high torque starter. Still doesn’t like to be started.
12.5 volts on constant post. 10 volts on the output post of the GPR. is 10 volts normal?
If the relay don't work buy a shim kit for the injector armature should help cure most if not all of your injector problems.
Here's the kit I've used many times in many injectors and works great. https://www.ebay.com/itm/94-03-7-3L-...oAAOSwZuFdjt5p
I got a new GPR (Napa (I know you guys are going to shame me but I just decided to try it)
output voltage is equal to input now. About 10.75 , “wait to start light” actually comes on and stays on for about 5 seconds max, starts about the same. Maybe a little better.
I guess I should OHM the glow plug wires and check resilience make sure there’s no messed up connections ?
If the relay don't work buy a shim kit for the injector armature should help cure most if not all of your injector problems.
Here's the kit I've used many times in many injectors and works great. https://www.ebay.com/itm/94-03-7-3L-...oAAOSwZuFdjt5p
I think the WTS light illumination time is set via oil temperature. In temps under 40F and when I forget to plug into my timer, I wait for the light to extinguish then watch 10 seconds click off on my wristwatch, then crank. When into the 20s, I wait 30 seconds. The Stancore is bigger than the standard size GPR, but I would rather have a working any brand unit than none. You can always do the Stancore later, keep the stocker for a spare. I did.
Output voltage with engine off glowing seems low, but I have no idea. They pull quite a bit of *** to preheat. A basic $4 Harbor Freight test light can give you a quickie idea if all your GPs are working.
Installing the armature shims is not too hard, helped cold starts for me. The instructions are quite poor, check my thread for details.
I think the WTS light illumination time is set via oil temperature. In temps under 40F and when I forget to plug into my timer, I wait for the light to extinguish then watch 10 seconds click off on my wristwatch, then crank. When into the 20s, I wait 30 seconds. The Stancore is bigger than the standard size GPR, but I would rather have a working any brand unit than none. You can always do the Stancore later, keep the stocker for a spare. I did.
Output voltage with engine off glowing seems low, but I have no idea. They pull quite a bit of *** to preheat. A basic $4 Harbor Freight test light can give you a quickie idea if all your GPs are working.
Installing the armature shims is not too hard, helped cold starts for me. The instructions are quite poor, check my thread for details.
oh ok. I thought you had to ohm the glow plugs. I have a test light too I’ll check in on how to do the test with it.
yeah I had my batteries checked a month ago. All seemed well but I thought that was low voltage too
oh ok. I thought you had to ohm the glow plugs. I have a test light too I’ll check in on how to do the test with it.
yeah I had my batteries checked a month ago. All seemed well but I thought that was low voltage too
I just had a less than 3 yr old battery on passenger side go south. Voltage showed 12.5 but when I put a load test on it, it went into red 0 volts. = bad battery. something to check. Do them separate.