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IIRC, it is over $150 if you really want a good one instead of something looking like a beer can with steel wool. My only concern is whether I want the oily stain on the driveway which makes diagnosis of a leak much harder. As to other people bitching and moaning, well, I'm reminded of the story of The Old Man, The Boy and the Donkey.
Have you looked looked up the provent? Its made by Mann Hummel and regarded as one of the best on the market.
It dont look like a beer can nor is it filled with utter **** that dont work. https://www.amazon.com.au/6257511-Pr...98373084&psc=1
Have you looked looked up the provent? Its made by Mann Hummel and regarded as one of the best on the market.
It dont look like a beer can nor is it filled with utter **** that dont work. https://www.amazon.com.au/6257511-Pr...98373084&psc=1
I have looked at them. Like I was trying to say, if you get a cheap $20 one, you are basically getting a beer can with steel wool. The Mann Hummel one is something I would definitely want if I was trying to clean up the CCV before it went back into the intake. It is just a lot of money and takes some time to install properly. So if it is for a reason I would appreciate like having for diagnosis, I definitely would be for it. But if it were solely just to please someone who doesn't like the smell, that is a different story.
Why do the 7.3's have so much more blow-by that others? Such as the 5.9 & 6.7 cummins,6.6 duramax etc,
blow by is the air that leaks past the rings on the piston and is caused by wear or damage.
venting a engine block is not so much for blow by but to give the volume of air that gets pumped by the under side of the piston somewhere to go without building up pressure like happens on the top side of the piston.
a 7.3 moves more air on the bottom side of the pistons then a 6.7 simply because it has .6 more displacement. .
blow by is the air that leaks past the rings on the piston and is caused by wear or damage.
venting a engine block is not so much for blow by but to give the volume of air that gets pumped by the under side of the piston somewhere to go without building up pressure like happens on the top side of the piston.
a 7.3 moves more air on the bottom side of the pistons then a 6.7 simply because it has .6 more displacement. .
Is 0.6L making that much of a difference? If it is moving air, that is one thing but it does move a lot of fumes so I can't be sure if it is evaporated oil mostly or some combustion that slipped past the rings.
blow by is the air that leaks past the rings on the piston and is caused by wear or damage.
venting a engine block is not so much for blow by but to give the volume of air that gets pumped by the under side of the piston somewhere to go without building up pressure like happens on the top side of the piston.
a 7.3 moves more air on the bottom side of the pistons then a 6.7 simply because it has .6 more displacement. .
I understand what it is and where it comes from, i was just curious if there was simple explanation for the 7.3 powerstroke, and even the 6.9/7.3 idi's having so much more than the 5.9 and 6.7 cummins,. Ive owned multiple versions of all of those and the difference is pretty large. Looser ring packs? bbut how does that work when they make similar compression. Seems like international designed their medium duty engines with looser tolerences? Because the 6.6 dmax and ford 6.7 seem to be tighter? Heck most 7.3's have as much blowby as the 700k mile 12.7 detroit i had for awhile
FWIW, I ran my CCV to my exhaust for over 100k miles without issue. Sure, there were cries from ErnieGene and others about how the exhaust would send corrosive elements backwards through the hose to the valve cover, but those were unfounded. There was zero discoloration or corrosion in the dog house and valve cover areas, and I could see the fumes/mist exiting the tailpipe. It'd still be like that today if CA didn't change the smog laws on me 13 years into my truck ownership.
FWIW, I ran my CCV to my exhaust for over 100k miles without issue. Sure, there were cries from ErnieGene and others about how the exhaust would send corrosive elements backwards through the hose to the valve cover, but those were unfounded. There was zero discoloration or corrosion in the dog house and valve cover areas, and I could see the fumes/mist exiting the tailpipe. It'd still be like that today if CA didn't change the smog laws on me 13 years into my truck ownership.
X2 Mine has been routed in my exhaust for the last 30K miles no problems.
First, WHY would you want to deviate from stock CCV plumbing?
There is nothing wrong with that at all. I’ve taken trucks apart that had MASSIVE blow-by from dead cylinders, etc and the most oil I’ve gotten out of a CAC barely makes a mess on the floor.
Crawl under the next T444 engine you see and tell me what it looks like from the draft tube back.
Some trucks/engines smoke and stink worse than others. All draft tubes will condense and drip the oil vapor they are handling.
The folks who didn’t like the smoke and stink often routed their CCV to the back of the truck. It was common to use heater hose for this because it’s readily available, inexpensive and the right size. In cold climates, moisture condenses and collects in low points of the hose and freezes - blocking the hose, creating crankcase pressure and blowing out seals.
IMHO, stock is best here and there is no ‘upgrade’.
There is nothing wrong with that at all. I’ve taken trucks apart that had MASSIVE blow-by from dead cylinders, etc and the most oil I’ve gotten out of a CAC barely makes a mess on the floor.
The folks who didn’t like the smoke and stink often routed their CCV to the back of the truck. It was common to use heater hose for this because it’s readily available, inexpensive and the right size. In cold climates, moisture condenses and collects in low points of the hose and freezes - blocking the hose, creating crankcase pressure and blowing out seals.
IMHO, stock is best here and there is no ‘upgrade’.
So how do you account for all the oil drips on the floor over the years?
If you don't have a dip where you can have condensate freeze, isn't that good?
Besides the oil drips, International is venting to atmosphere and it does not harm anything so it may be an upgrade if all you want is to not have the oily smoke in the intake but don't mind it on the floor.
So how do you account for all the oil drips on the floor over the years?
If you don't have a dip where you can have condensate freeze, isn't that good?
Besides the oil drips, International is venting to atmosphere and it does not harm anything so it may be an upgrade if all you want is to not have the oily smoke in the intake but don't mind it on the floor.
Stock does not drip and is what I recommend.
There is is nothing wrong with CCV to atmosphere -aka ‘draft tube’ if you don’t mind the smoke, stink and mess (including drips).
There is nothing wrong with catch cans, etc either as long as they do not create obstruction. (Maintenance diligence is required).
Besides the oil drips, International is venting to atmosphere and it does not harm anything.
It makes a MESS. Have you spent much time under a big truck? That oil vapor goes all over everything downwind of the draft tube. It gets coated with road grime and is the kind of dirty it’s hard to wash off...
The same vapor has absolutely no downsides going in the intake. Maybe the CAC boots get a little dirty on the outside?? That just means it’s time to clean the engine!!
Do you feel feel like your truck drips oil because CCV is factory?
The truck drips oil because while most of the CCV has gone into the atmosphere, there is condensate on the walls of the hose which drips off. I guess my question is this. What exactly happens to the oil that is deposited in the pipes and reports of oil having soaked through the hoses? Could it deteriorate, and thus compromise the integrity of the hose?
If so, 2 options remain. Put up with the oil drips or get a catch can.