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If you watch the youtube video around the 1:02 mark, you see that he has the Dee Zee rack and what looks like a Bakflip tonneau. I know it isn't the Magnum rack from the OP, but the Dee Zee and Magnum look similar with that wide tubing with t-slot tracks, so the dimensions are likely to be very close.
How sturdy would it be if you just use the stake pocket mounts? I see you also used screws through the bed rail or is that the stake pocket bracket bolt.
How sturdy would it be if you just use the stake pocket mounts? I see you also used screws through the bed rail or is that the stake pocket bracket bolt.
There is a custom aluminum block that goes down into the stake pocket. That gets bolted from the inside with a bolt. Then the rack goes on and bolts down to the top of that aluminum block.
Same concept as my “backrack” brand backrack but instead of a bolt it was threads exposed and a nut holds the rack on. But same bolt through the bed to hold a piece Inside the pocket.
My Magnum I believe is for the earlier Fords,(pre-17's) so it sticks out beyond the cab a bit. Its also the High Pro.
I have a Backflip on mine that would not fold all 3 pcs as its tucked under the rack to seal on the fwd end of the bed.
I also had to cut 2 little tabs to get it jammed in there. The Backflip was for a '17 I picked up used.
In looking at the Magnum site they are the same width so I don't think the OP would be able to fold it as he wants.
I'll try & get a picture up later of how its tucked in there.
How sturdy would it be if you just use the stake pocket mounts? I see you also used screws through the bed rail or is that the stake pocket bracket bolt.
I only used my supplied pocket blocks. Didn't want to drill holes in my side rails. It's very sturdy. I've had a fridges strapped to it with no problems.
As a note on the topic of rigidity with supplied mounting blocks, NO, it is not the sturdiest mounting system out there. Slight rock forward and back seems par for the course. I was not pleased with this on my old truck or new one (kept the Magnum from my '06 and stuck it on my '17) so I remedied the problem by bolting it to the top rail rearward of the factory bolt. I actually used aluminum hardware so there would be no dissimilar metals. Though it required about 4' if socket extensions the rack is very sturdy now, one could actually use it for hauling materials.
As a note on the topic of rigidity with supplied mounting blocks, NO, it is not the sturdiest mounting system out there. Slight rock forward and back seems par for the course. I was not pleased with this on my old truck or new one (kept the Magnum from my '06 and stuck it on my '17) so I remedied the problem by bolting it to the top rail rearward of the factory bolt. I actually used aluminum hardware so there would be no dissimilar metals. Though it required about 4' if socket extensions the rack is very sturdy now, one could actually use it for hauling materials.
Good to know, material hauling would be one of the main reasons I would even consider one. Not a fan of drilling into the bed rail though. I thought I recalled reading on thier site, or some install, that a screw down through the bed rail could be used to increase its strength. I also thought they already had an additional hole in the base plate for that.
Why the 4' of extension? It looks like theres plenty of room to add a faster towards the rear of the base plate.
I only used my supplied pocket blocks. Didn't want to drill holes in my side rails. It's very sturdy. I've had a fridges strapped to it with no problems.
I wouldn’t worry as mentioned above using the right hardware is key. The bedrail caps are cheap to pop on and cover the holes if you remove it.
I would be more worried about damaging the bed by not spreading the weight.
I am a little disappointed with the “strobe” option. For 64$ you get two strobes for the center lights. But they don’t strobe. All these do it flash and for an emergency situation, kind of a waste.
I am going to switch them out to real strobes with some type of flash pattern.