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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 01:30 PM
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Tips on a intake job

Edit: Forgot to add the specs, 2001 F150 4.2 V6/ 5 Spd
So I threw in the towel and let a shop diagnose my Bank 1 and 2 codes. To those who told me to look at the intake gasket first, you were right and I should have listened sooner but was hoping for an easier fix. They've determined that its the mid-intake gasket that has failed. I am guessing they mean the lower intake gasket but I would replace both since I'm in there. Are there any other parts I should consider replacing along with the gaskets and isolator bolts? I've never changed an intake gasket before but the shop wanted $900 for the job and I am sure I can do it if I take my time. Any tips for a first timer attempting the job? Is there a particular brand of gaskets to avoid? I'll be aquiring the parts from Rockauto as they are very affordably priced.
I've replaced the following parts already:
PCV Valve on valve cover and grommet
PCV Valve under the IAC (though the replacement part looks entirely different internally)
A hose going from the vapor canister solenoid to near the throttle body
Fuel Filter
I have a PCV elbow but can't seem to find where it goes
I'll be ordering the needed parts in the next couple days and hopefully can get started this weekend. Thank you in advance!
 

Last edited by truckguy92; Jan 13, 2020 at 01:44 PM. Reason: Adding vehicle specs
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 01:34 PM
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What year and engine?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by z31freakify
What year and engine?
Oops forgot to mention that, 2001 F150 with the 4.2 V6. I will edit the original post to include that. Thank you for catching that.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by truckguy92
Edit: Forgot to add the specs, 2001 F150 4.2 V6/ 5 Spd
So I threw in the towel and let a shop diagnose my Bank 1 and 2 codes. To those who told me to look at the intake gasket first, you were right and I should have listened sooner but was hoping for an easier fix.
Heh. No problem. That’s life for you sometimes.

My scanner just popped a P0171/0174 on a chilly evening last week or so ago. I’m wondering if these suckers are only good for about 140,000 miles myself-mine just passed 274,000 miles and got done around 145,000. Not sure if anyone around has had an F150 around long enough with a 4.2 to do this more than once. Oh well, I’ll know when that pair of codes returns.

Anyway, if I’m remembering correctly, the PCV is heated by antifreeze with hoses running to it and is located by the throttle body. Not sure why so many different mentions there from you. This one with the hose taken off is your target. (Actually, can’t upload right now, you can google “f150 4.2 pcv valve location” and see for yourself). There is no elbow like the Tritons have behind the intake, either. I’m not driving the F150 today, but I’m sure the 4.2 hose doesn’t go that far back.

There’s not that much to disconnect. You can label matching hoses and nipples, but it’s not bad. Throttle body and cruise cable come off, but those are unique. Vacuum hose from intake to brake booster. No biggie there.

I would buy an IMRC now and replace it or at least replace the little plastic bushings while you can see behind the engine. You can’t reach there with the plastic upper intake. I know, I did this job last summer just to get mine inspected. One rod was hanging and the other had fallen out completely. Ran very doggish and that’s understanding that my other truck has a Hemi in it.

You need an inch-lbs torque wrench because those isolators torque to a smallish in-lbs number if I remember right.

There is a plug wire holder on the back of the intake. Just toss it and hack that stub that keeps it in place off. Makes it A LOT easier to loosen and tighten that SOB. Your plug wires will be fine. As will your sanity trying to cram a socket up against the firewall over that thing. There is a picture on the google site of a fedex box with the upper intake bolts showing two of these silly ones with points on them. Hack them both off.

The gasket itself lines up a certain way with a little notch lining up into the lower intake. Line it up or it never goes in right. It may be mentioned below.


Read:
https://sites.google.com/site/fordf1...P0171P0174-Fix

 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Paycheck
Heh. No problem. That’s life for you sometimes.

My scanner just popped a P0171/0174 on a chilly evening last week or so ago. I’m wondering if these suckers are only good for about 140,000 miles myself-mine just passed 274,000 miles and got done around 145,000. Not sure if anyone around has had an F150 around long enough with a 4.2 to do this more than once. Oh well, I’ll know when that pair of codes returns.

Anyway, if I’m remembering correctly, the PCV is heated by antifreeze with hoses running to it and is located by the throttle body. Not sure why so many different mentions there from you. This one with the hose taken off is your target. (Actually, can’t upload right now, you can google f150. 4.2 pcv valve location” and see for yourself.

There’s not that much to disconnect. You can label matching hoses and nipples, but it’s not bad. Throttle body and cruise cable come off, but those are unique. Vacuum hose from intake to brake booster. No biggie there.

I would buy an IMRC now and replace it or at least replace the little plastic bushings while you can see behind the engine. You can’t reach there with the plastic upper intake. I know, I did this job last summer just to get mine inspected. One rod was hanging and the other had fallen out completely.
So IMRC and the bushings, got it. As for the PCV Valves, there is two on my truck for some reason and both have coolant lines on them. It's the one that attaches near the IAC that I had trouble with, had to look under a 2002 F150 to get the replacement part. The first picture is the PCV on the passenger valve cover. The second and third pictures are of the one next to the IAC but as you can see look different. The one I picked up isn't a Motorcraft part though.



 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 03:48 PM
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I think my 03 uses the bottom version. Some tweaks between the range of years and from aluminum upper intake to the plastic one, I reckon.

You shouldn’t have two. Someone must have plopped one elsewhere because...they felt like it?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Paycheck
Heh. No problem. That’s life for you sometimes.

My scanner just popped a P0171/0174 on a chilly evening last week or so ago. I’m wondering if these suckers are only good for about 140,000 miles myself-mine just passed 274,000 miles and got done around 145,000. Not sure if anyone around has had an F150 around long enough with a 4.2 to do this more than once. Oh well, I’ll know when that pair of codes returns.

Anyway, if I’m remembering correctly, the PCV is heated by antifreeze with hoses running to it and is located by the throttle body. Not sure why so many different mentions there from you. This one with the hose taken off is your target. (Actually, can’t upload right now, you can google “f150 4.2 pcv valve location” and see for yourself). There is no elbow like the Tritons have behind the intake, either. I’m not driving the F150 today, but I’m sure the 4.2 hose doesn’t go that far back.

There’s not that much to disconnect. You can label matching hoses and nipples, but it’s not bad. Throttle body and cruise cable come off, but those are unique. Vacuum hose from intake to brake booster. No biggie there.

I would buy an IMRC now and replace it or at least replace the little plastic bushings while you can see behind the engine. You can’t reach there with the plastic upper intake. I know, I did this job last summer just to get mine inspected. One rod was hanging and the other had fallen out completely. Ran very doggish and that’s understanding that my other truck has a Hemi in it.

You need an inch-lbs torque wrench because those isolators torque to a smallish in-lbs number if I remember right.

There is a plug wire holder on the back of the intake. Just toss it and hack that stub that keeps it in place off. Makes it A LOT easier to loosen and tighten that SOB. Your plug wires will be fine. As will your sanity trying to cram a socket up against the firewall over that thing. There is a picture on the google site of a fedex box with the upper intake bolts showing two of these silly ones with points on them. Hack them both off.

The gasket itself lines up a certain way with a little notch lining up into the lower intake. Line it up or it never goes in right. It may be mentioned below.


Read:
https://sites.google.com/site/fordf1...P0171P0174-Fix
My computer is acting weird today, didn't show the rest of your message until I replied earlier. That site you linked for me is a goldmine of information and pictures! That notch would have had me frustrated to no end if I didn't learn about it now. It is a lot less intimidating than I thought it would be. Still a day or two of work I'm guessing but beats paying $900. I am also guessing that when I complete the repair, that would be a good time for a coolant flush and oil change?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Paycheck
I think my 03 uses the bottom version. Some tweaks between the range of years and from aluminum upper intake to the plastic one, I reckon.

You shouldn’t have two. Someone must have plopped one elsewhere because...they felt like it?
Hmm maybe I should put the original back on after cleaning it? Some gut instinct told me not to throw it out just yet.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 03:56 PM
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It’s not that bad.

Get a good night’s rest, start early and if you have all your parts, you could be done well before dark. I was lucky enough that I didn’t have all that port sludge to clean like the guy on the website did. I think I sprayed mine last year for kicks.

I had had to wait on parts when I did mine initially back in 2010. My truck was out of commish a few days while I waited on the isolators. Last summer, it was Houston August heat trying to do the IMRC. I just started fresh with a new one and new bushings. Nothing like my face crammed up against that fiberglass padding and reaching for the IMRC screws in the dark! Just do that all in one shot!
 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by truckguy92
Hmm maybe I should put the original back on after cleaning it? Some gut instinct told me not to throw it out just yet.
Yeah, I’d hang on. I also edited to add a lot, so don’t chunk your computer yet.

Yeah, an oil change and coolant flush is okay. I’d definitely not wait for the radiator to turn to rust and sludge like a coworker’s did. He was out a radiator and water pump for his effort.

 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 05:07 PM
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Yea I noticed we were playing tag haha. I bought the truck with 25k miles on it about three months ago. The one owner carfax report shows the water pump was replaced in April of 2011 so I am assuming the coolant is at least that old and doesn't look green. I also noticed some nasty crud in the passage pipe for the PCV valves. Hopefully with such low miles there won't be too much to clean up. I'm definitely going to wait until I have the parts on hand and as I live on the SE part of Houston, soon before summer! I don't think any harm will come with driving it gently for now since I know I am not looking at a head gasket. Its an old truck and thus far everything I'm fixing is age related except for the odometer blackout issue.

Boy they are proud of that IMRC!
 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 05:25 PM
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Yeah, they are. Mine was pretty dirty looking plus I was missing one rod, so I started from scratch. You’ll make it as long as the idle doesn’t get too rough.

I’m gonna have to do the odometer eventually as well. It only acts up on really chilly days. Even then, I can tap at it and it comes back. It is what it is.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 05:56 PM
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Fortunately it doesn't idle rough but could always change. I'll definitely be ordering the parts in the next couple of days to make sure I get everything in one order.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 08:45 PM
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Oddly enough im doing an entire engine reseal on a truck I just bought with the same engine. Im actually cleaning everything on it but Im also removing engine as I have to reseal the oil pan and install new freeze plugs.
i would recom3end cleaning the bottom intake part that thing is filthy including the egr ports on the intake runners, mine were plugged solid. Puple power and a good spray bottle helps alot more so if you have a pressure washer. Im going the extra step by removing the throttle plates on the plennum and cleaning them good and installing new O rings on them. Ill post some pics if you would like to be added to your thread.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 10:10 PM
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so my 01 5.4 is leaking coolant into the spark plugs....really really slowly. is this the same basic seal job? where the intake manifold cracks and lets coolant out?
 
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