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I tried LED turn signals and brake lights without modding the wiring or flashers and my truck also has the E4OD and the torque converter would not lock up. Put regular bulbs back in and it worked. If you try LEDs you likely would have to add in line resistors to mimic a regular light bulb to keep things working like stock.
Same issue I experienced. I even tried LED bulbs in the third brake light and they prevented over drive from engaging. Went back to OEM incandescent bulbs and now my 95 F-150, 5.0 W/E4OD shifts like it's supposed to. I wanted to reduce the heat build up in the brake light sockets, especially the third brake light, as I've seen too many become deformed / melted on trucks in the junk yard. So what I ended up doing, went with the lower wattage smaller bulb bulb in the third brake light, the bulb used in the instrument cluster. They burn cooler and haven't had any determent on transmission shifting into overdrive. Ya, they burn dimmer, but they still illuminate when I hit the brake. I've been so conscious of the heat build up melting the brake bulb sockets, that I put the truck in neutral waiting for a red light.
LED bulbs in the rear of my '90 made the cruise-control inoperative Of course I didn't read about that here until after I bought and installed them. Now I'm back with the regular incandescent bulbs Since polishing my headlamps was so effective I'm gonna do my tails so the lenses will be like new.
Overall, I think the LED swap is a good idea. Just make sure the LED color matches the color of the lens it will be shining through i.e. red LED for red filter/lens, clear LED for clear filter/lens, green LED for green filter/lens, etc.
So, do the kits with the resistors make a difference? I'd love LEDs in the taillights but just put in the cruise and don't want to render it inop.
Haven't tried it personally, I just bought new lenses that look good for the rear and restored the fronts for better visibility. But in theory, if you get the resistance correct to what a regular bulb is, it should work.
So, do the kits with the resistors make a difference? I'd love LEDs in the taillights but just put in the cruise and don't want to render it inop.
I don't know for sure, however, I don't think so. With an incandescent bulb electricity can still flow through it but at a lower amount -- a trickle if you will -- that won't be enough to actually light the bulb. A LED is more like a switch, ON or OFF, and when OFF no electricity flows through it.
Hi,Well I guess I asked a good question,and after reading all your comments ,I think I will god with he new lights on rear and polish the fronts.Thanks for all the help, interesting to hear what everybody says.sounds like the lens will be the less troublesome,damn comuters.ty
In my ‘93 F250 E4OD, I put led’s in all sockets in the cluster, dashboard, interior light, door lights. No performance issues and a nice bright cluster and dash.
In my ‘93 F250 E4OD, I put led’s in all sockets in the cluster, dashboard, interior light, door lights. No performance issues and a nice bright cluster and dash.
[QUOTE=Wheelman55;19053215] if you figure out the resistance valve of one bulb you may be able to put in a resistor of the same value to compensate in the blinkers and taillights I am gonna swap over to LEDs I'll report back
the reverse light(3156) is 26,88 watts, and ohms law says resistance is 5.35 ohms, - I changed to LED no resistor did not effect trans shifting
the rear brake light (3157) is 27 watts, and ohms law says resistance is 5.33 ohms,
the 3rd brake light(921) is 17.92 watts, resistance is 8.05 ohms
ohms law- watts divided by volts = amps, then volts divided by amps = resistance
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Of course I didn't read about that here until after I bought and installed them. Now I'm back with the regular incandescent bulbs 
Since polishing my headlamps was so effective I'm gonna do my tails so the lenses will be like new.
