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I just went through this and after some research this is kind of where I'm at. I wanted to regalvanize them but after talking to several companies that were willing to help me we decided it cannot be done, the heat would ruin them most likely. what they need is a zinc coating and the only place I could find to do a part this big refused to do it , they said it wasn't worth the risk of contamination for them. maybe it can be done I don't know. so what I did was use Rustoleum Hammerite silver paint. no, it's not a prefect match but I think it's closer than most and it's very durable. I did use some Eastwood's zinc coating paint lightly over sprayed to tone it down a bit. it looks decent enough I think I can live with it.
Painting over galvanization is a crap shoot. If you get it super clean, well scuffed and wipe it down with laquer thinner, it may last a while. Problem is, the galvinization process impregnates oil into the coating, which makes it difficult for paint to adhere to.
I've painted a bunch of galvanized things with mixed results. Impeccable surface prep is key. My best results has been using (don't laugh, looks great) industriaal grade oil based Rust-Oleum. I wasn't going for looks this time around, just general corrosion control. I cleaned it well, rustoleum oil based primer, scuffed with green scuff pad, then baled several heavy coats of semi gloss black. Turned out way better than I expected. It's been on there for over a year, and it hasn't chipped, peeled or lifted, and it been through hell. I'm guessing the oil based paint/primer cooperates with the oily zinc/galvanized substrate a little better than conventional automotive paint.
To all the others, do you think it devalues the truck to have them 'painted'? How about a lite sandblast then clear coat ? I've used a clear POR 15 with good results.
To all the others, do you think it devalues the truck to have them 'painted'? How about a lite sandblast then clear coat ? I've used a clear POR 15 with good results.
I'm not sure. There are a few guys on here that went with the 100 point concours restoration route with date coded inner fenders and complete day one factory appearing underhood showmanship ang God bless those guys for thier patience as we have a point of reference for serious restorations. However, although these trucks are rapidly appreciating classics, they are still far and away from hemi cuda / early Vette nit picky "that's not factory!" judgemental BS if your inner fenders are painted different than factory. Most people in the market for these trucks are just happy to find them not rotten or butchered.
I used 4 coats of Rust-Oleum, Metallic Paint and Primer in One, "Flat Soft Iron" spray cans. It's darker than the factory color. For the underside I used Rust-Oleum, Semi Gloss Black.
I used 4 coats of Rust-Oleum, Metallic Paint and Primer in One, "Flat Soft Iron" spray cans. It's darker than the factory color. For the underside I used Rust-Oleum, Semi Gloss Black.
If I was going to refinish my truck's engine bay, I'd paint it with a self-etching, rust-inhibiting primer followed by several nice, even coats of Krylon satin black. That color is a perfect match for Ford passenger car engine bays (such as my '72 Mustang convertible show car). The black engine bay is a classic look, which always looks "right" and only an expert would know that it didn't come that way. Plus, the Krylon paint costs next to nothing, goes on easily, is very durable, and is easy to touch up.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
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