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Ok. Started yesterday, backed out of my driveway and all at once got check engine light and REALLY running rough. Milked it back into the garage. Found one pigtail to the UVCH melted pretty bad. (See Pic). The male pins look ok, I didn’t pull the valve cover. Pulled the #9 maxi-fuse and I got a new pigtail spliced in today. Started it up and it set the CEL and rough again for about 15 seconds then smoothed out. Drove it around for a while and it stumbled and set the light a couple more times, but ALOT better than before. Sooo, I’m pretty sure the inside of the harness is toasted as well. I’m going to order new gaskets, my question is, what brand is recommended?
I did stop by O’Reily’s to see if they could read any stored codes, but they’re reader couldn’t. Let me know what brand you guys have had success with.
1994.5 F250 7.3
i just bought the standard motor products one. I did some reading and it seems to be a quality product. Granted this will be my first time using them so we will see how it fairs. The same part is also available by special order from oriellys
Have not tried that brand ever. I tried the dorman ones when i was broke and they only lasted a few years (Considering i only average about 5-7000 miles per year on my 96). Just put on an international one that i got from riffraff a few weeks ago.
Here’s what I’m going to have to do for now, (kinda Christmas broke). I picked up a Dorman from O Reily’s and going to put it on. Then this spring I’ll change both sides out with OEM or International, when the money and the weather are better. Any tricks for pulling passenger valve cover?
Wish you luck on the Dorman! Just get the bolts out. The rear bolt is a bitch. Used small gear wrench and made it easier. I believe you have to tilt the rear of the cover outward, first to get it off easier. In reality its not too horrible and no air intakes to mess with. When assembling and plugging in all connections do a dry run and set the cover down and in place. Then remove it again to make sure none of the wiring was pinched or the injector harness locks became unlocked. If it looks good then put cover back on and tighten up.
I have found it easier to get the rear most and the ones next to the heater box out by reaching up from under the truck using a 1/4 inch drive ratchet, instead of fighting an extension and wabbly combo from the top side. You can remove the vacuum box from the heater box (2 screws) to give you a little more room.
Got it all done yesterday. Yup, back bolt PITA! Got it though. One of the inner connectors was melted pretty good on the glow plug pin. Fired it up and it was better than before, but still not right. In checking more things I found the ipc sensor full of oil in the connector. (Probably should have checked that first). By the time I found it all the parts stores were closed so I cleaned the connector real good with contact cleaner and q-tips, now I’ve driven it probably 20 miles, let it idle for a while and not even a hiccup. Runs better than it has for quite a while. I’ll get a new ipc tomorrow and hope that I won!!
Maybe I should start a new thread but here’s a thought I’m having. It had always bugged me that the glow plugs stay on for so long. Would it be advantageous to make the relay manually activated so they could be shut off sooner and maybe help the glow plug connectors last longer? Just a thought 🤔.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
