2002 e250 ignition coil stripped bolt
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Joined: Dec 2019
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2002 e250 ignition coil stripped bolt
any creative tips to getting a stripped bolt out of my van? the 4th cylinder has been misfiring so I'm replacing the ignition coil but can't get the bolt loose to replace it. it's the first coil you see when you pull the doghouse off
I've tried
1.drilling into the bolt, attempting to extract that way. couldnt get it sturdy enough in my small space
2. welder told me he could attach a bolt to the top and unscrew it but when he saw it said it was too tight of a space and he'd have to remove parts to not burn anything
3. bolt gripping extraction socket heads
4. jb weld in a socket head which I let cute but wasn't enough, am attempting this again just in case
somebody has to have a good trick out there
I've tried
1.drilling into the bolt, attempting to extract that way. couldnt get it sturdy enough in my small space
2. welder told me he could attach a bolt to the top and unscrew it but when he saw it said it was too tight of a space and he'd have to remove parts to not burn anything
3. bolt gripping extraction socket heads
4. jb weld in a socket head which I let cute but wasn't enough, am attempting this again just in case
somebody has to have a good trick out there
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
The bolt has seized in the metal insert that's pressed into the plastic intake. This might be due just bad luck OR some ham-hand ape over-tighten that bolts and caused the issue you're having. You'll need to find some way to drill the head of the bolt off in order to lift the COP out of the way. Perhaps you could fit a Dremel tool into the space and grind or cut the bolt head away, In an extreme situation you could cut the COP mounting flange away which might be the easiest way to proceed. New Motorcraft COP's can be found on eBay and Amazon for under $30 without shipping--shop around for Motorcraft DG-508. PLEASE don't find the cheapest imported POS due cost alone---typically you'll be changing that one in a short while after its failed.
Once the COP is out CAREFULLY remove the bolt and seized insert so you do NOT DAMAGE the intake---its not overly fragile but its not cast iron or aluminum like in the good ole days.
Screw this part up and you'll learn to replace the entire intake---the OEM versions are about $240 plus gaskets etc and a world of cussing free or charge. This guy has a great way to properly replace the threaded insert although it does require a bit of tool and supply investment.
You could also remove the insert, CAREFULLY drill out the original hole slightly larger than the M6 X 0.8 bolt and use a Loctite 2 part epoxy thread restoration product. It wouldn't be as strong as replacing the metal insert but the COP's aren't under any huge stress, engine heat would be the biggest concern but the Loctite should be good up to at least 300* F.
Anyway, I hope this helps.
Once the COP is out CAREFULLY remove the bolt and seized insert so you do NOT DAMAGE the intake---its not overly fragile but its not cast iron or aluminum like in the good ole days.
Screw this part up and you'll learn to replace the entire intake---the OEM versions are about $240 plus gaskets etc and a world of cussing free or charge. This guy has a great way to properly replace the threaded insert although it does require a bit of tool and supply investment.
You could also remove the insert, CAREFULLY drill out the original hole slightly larger than the M6 X 0.8 bolt and use a Loctite 2 part epoxy thread restoration product. It wouldn't be as strong as replacing the metal insert but the COP's aren't under any huge stress, engine heat would be the biggest concern but the Loctite should be good up to at least 300* F.
Anyway, I hope this helps.
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thegreatgate
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