When you run your fuel line are you going to bend up a new solid line or go with a flex line? Also assuming you start at the tank end and run the line to the front what route will your line take once it enters the engine bay?

 

I'm using the flex line. I have a fancy new tubing bender and thought about doing the hard line, but for now, I'll just use flex. Since the fuel comes into the driver side rear of the throttle body I'm going to route it down the back side of the engine.

 

That sounds like a nice clean route to go with the line. Thanks again.

 

What a great thread. I plan on doing this upgrade myself soon. Any more progress updates? Why did you opt for the in tank setup?

 

I haven't really had the proper time or opportunity to work on it lately, just stolen moments here and there. Here's a few things I've found. The oversized fuel tank was difficult to put in when I originally did it. It seemed that the bolts could have been about 1/2" longer. With the intank pump it seems like something is hitting somewhere but I can't pinpoint it. It goes in, it just seems like the top of the tank is a bit tall. The in tank is a lot quieter than a frame rail mounted. Also, I got the one holley sells because it has a built in regulator so you only run 1 fuel line versus 2 since you don't need a return or a mixing pot. I had/have a gremlin I'm trying to work through right now. So, wire harness is new and I have all connections made with factory crimps or solder and shrink wrap and I was pretty meticulous with my harness. I had an issue with my bauman controller for the E4OD when I first put it in, it wouldn't come on when I used the same hot wire that fed the dakota digital gauges. Picked another ignition on wire, and everything worked. Figured it was the computer boards and maybe some electronic harmonics. Whatever, it worked. Now, I'm having the same issue. if I turn the key on without the CDI unit connected to power, it powers like it should. I can then connect the hyperspark box and everything is good. Truck starts. However, it does occasionally stall. I attribute that to the fact it really hasn't had time to learn and it is making adjustments. Literally under 1% learned. Now, the crazy thing is, if I turn the key off, it stumbles and keeps running. everything is off in the cab including the holley computer. Fuel pump keeps running too. So power is backfeeding through the wires that make the fuel pump relay hot as well as the hyperspark and holley ecu. I believe it is the Hyperspark cdi box. I called holley, and they are sending me another one. Hopefully that fixes it. I can't button everything up until I know the cause. I will say while it's running, it runs better than it ever has. Throttle response is instantaneous. I'll have it done soon and get the final updates posted.

 

UPDATE: Ok, So I'm an ER nurse and I work nights. With the COVID pandemic it's been hard to find time to work on the truck and then I was talking to customer support at Holley and they've been on quarantine etc. But I figured out my issue today. It was totally my fault. I was having an electric feedback issue that was affecting my E4OD controller and some other issues with the Holley not going into learn mode. Well, it turns out that since I was running the Bauman before on a Carburetor that there's a different wire configuration for the Throttle Position Sensor. I didn't realize that. I had gotten the TPS breakout adapter and just plugged into the sniper. Only wire that needed to be hooked up was the green sensor wire to the Blue wire on the Holley TPS. With the carburetor version I had the orange wire hooked up which gave a 5v reference voltage. That's where my power feedback was coming from. It was just enough to cause all kinds of problems. I disconnected it and like magic everything started working right. It went into learn mode as soon as engine got up to temp. Now I need to put my wire harness back into loom and button everything up. I can finally move on to the next project.

Final thoughts: The Holley sniper and the hyperspark are very slick. It really is plug and play easy for most applications. Most of the issues I had were due to the E4OD I have installed and it was only because there was no clear cut info for this application. Holley tech support was really good to deal with. They sent me out another CDI box when I thought that was my issue. It's still in the box. I'll send it back shortly. The truck starts up quickly, easily, idles good, seems to have a lot better power. To be fair I didn't have the Holley 600 dialed in. I'm really going to enjoy playing with the tuning.

 

Glad that Holley tech support was able to help! The biggest weakness with the Sniper kit is electrical interference causing the system to misbehave. My goal is to eventually do the E4OD swap in my truck, so I'll be referencing your build in the future.

 

Still following. Still excited to see this coming together. Nicely done

 

Keep the Holley wires from the spark plug wires.

So far I love my Holley EFI. Will upgrade to the distributor and ignition box.

 

Kind of hard to avoid the spark plug wires. I really am not crazy about the wire loom, but for plug and play you get what you get. Unless you want to take the time to splice and add, etc. I've got a few things going on still, but my truck has been sitting, so the battery was run down a bit. No biggy, got it on the charger now. I also am getting some valve rattle. I got most to go away setting WOT advance and max advance to 24*. I'm not a tuner, so I need to read up on that. I set the starting timing at 12* but might back it down to 10* or 11*, but the low end is punchy. If I ease into the throttle, I don't get the rattle like I do if I just stomp it. Maybe it needs to finish the learn cycle. I'm at about 60%. How can I tell if the sniper wires are too close to the spark plug wires and they're interferring? I am using 8mm wires so should the added shielding be helping?

 

Your throttle needs to be in the upper 90s. The throttle deal on the Sniper is a little tight. Some people do the linkage upgrade.

You'll have weird electronic issues if you get RFI.

 

I second the recommendation on getting the Holley throttle extension. I would chirp the tires from a stop even when trying not to without it. After installing the extension the throttle is much more linear and no more inadvertent chirping.

 

There is also a video on Youtube about this swap. You will have to do some tuning on the Sniper screen with this.

 

Any issues with the in tank pump hitting the bottom of the bed?

 

If my install is anything to go by...yes. I have the Hyperfuel 40015 retrofit pump. I had to get longer 9/16" bolts to get the aux tank straps to go together. It's probably 3/4" too tall as the tank snugs up pretty tightly to the bed.