Hey all,

I hope this is in the right section but i just had a general question. Im looking at purchasing a 65 f100 (been looking for a 60s model for awhile)
and found this one for sale at a dealer of all places. Everything seems pretty solid, some rust in the rocker panels and door panels and such but overall pretty solid except for what looks like the cross member for the cab. Since i dont really have any help with this purchase im looking for some input. Would this be a deal breaker for yall, i got it down under 2000 for the price. It does run and drive and stops also. I should also say, the drivers front door rubs the fender when opening, was curious if yall thought there might be some alignment issues because of the crossmember. Thanks for any help. It is much appreciated.

 

Cab support ends are common replacement items it seems. I need to do mine.
Look behind the front wheels at the front cab mounts, another common replacement item.

If it runs and drives, I'd give 2K for it.

 

https://www.carolina-classics.com/ca...es-trucks.html

 

I wouldn’t! Always expect more issues than what the eye beholds....Cab braces reveal more than cosmetic rust repair. This is structural and you may be seeing only the tip of the iceberg.

 

Unless you do metal fab for a living, you're going to be spending a whole lot on body repair. The front edge of the hood has me leery too

 

If it runs, drives, steers, and stops, it should be worth 2k. Buy a hundred dollar wire welder from Harbor Freight, practice on old appliance panels. I see people paying 1500 bucks for a truck with no engine or transmission. Honestly, I paid 3k for mine, and it's really not any better looking than that one.
Just my 2 cents worth. your mileage may vary.

 

Dixie....if those repairs are routine to you, you’re much more adventurous than I am. I admire anyone who isn’t afraid of cutting out panels, cab mounts, braces....finding suitable replacements and welding them in, while keeping everything straight for a good final fit. That’s an art, in my book. I’ve seen it done, but My welding skills are not up to that task. I guess the potential owner has to determine his capabilities in that regard. I do believe, though, that there are better trucks out there for little more. I have seen them, but it’s easy to say, here in California. I’m sure that the gulf coast has less to offer, however....the west coast is certainly within driving and trailering distance. I would still be time and money ahead, in fact, there’s a 65 flareside not far from my house. I see it in a fertilizer yard every day....and I see others around as well.

 

I think people tend to underestimate what rust repair will cost. By the time you add up parts and time you could easily be better off spending far more for something rust free. Where you're located and your skill level play a big part in making that decision though. If it were me, I'd pass on it. Easy for me to say here in AZ. However, 2k for a running '65 short bed ain't a bad deal.

 

Agree with these guys, just know what youre getting. Body repair will be a must, but if youre paying someone else itll add up quick. After thats done you still have all the details, trim, engine, battery, suspension, safety items, etc. Even tires will run $800.

Otherwise, fair deal if you are mechanically inclined.

 

OK, I guess there are some valid points raised here. I learned to weld when I was 13, and have been doing it for 45 years. I also have been repairing car and truck floorboards with friends and family for at least that long. If I lived in the desert SouthWest, where rust free trucks are common, I would pass this one up. However, I grew up in the Southern US, and New Jersey. Rust free anything doesn't exist. My first car was a 1962 Mercury Comet. The weekend I got it, I pulled the floor mats out and patched up the drivers floorboard with sheetmetal from a discarded washing machine, a drill, and pop rivets. Dad supervised, and offered advice, but I did the work myself. I was 14.

That being said, with a minimal investment in hand tools, you can patch or replace a cab mount or crossmember without welding. Modern epoxies, like JB Weld, are actually as strong as a spot weld. I'm a Senior Engineer with Toyota, we use adhesives a lot building our cars. You can buy a cab mount, cut the old one out, and attach it with some small nuts and bolts. Once you are satisfied with the fit, glue it in with JB Weld, and reinstall the small nuts and bolts. Plenty strong, and it will last for years. Is it as pretty as one that was professionally welded in? No. Is it strong, and effective? Yes. Most importantly, you can do it for about 60 bucks. You can also make a cardboard template, cut out a piece of heavy sheet metal with a hacksaw, bend the metal around a 2x4, with a hammer, and make your own patches for a rusty cab mount. Cost? if you scrounge? Less than 5 bucks.

So, don't be afraid to try your hand at repairing a truck cab. If you are lucky enough to live in an area where rust free examples are reasonably priced, then look for a good one in your price range. If you live in the SE US, where rust is the norm, then buy what fits your budget and learn some new skills. Leading edges of hoods? We wire wheeled them to bright metal, used a propane torch and soldered up the holes. Old school repairs.

I'm 58, just last year I was helping a 16 yr old kid and his 38 yr old Dad tune up a 1964 Dodge Dart, slant six, then do the brakes. Neither of them had ever seen a points and condenser ignition system, much less drum brakes! A good time was had by all.

There is always someone who will offer advice, loan you a tool, or help you when you need an extra hand. This forum, and others like it, have a wealth of knowledge and advice available. Take advantage of the resources available, and get an old truck to play with.

I'm not trying to make this seem like it's easy, it's not. It is, however, a great hobby, and a lot of fun. You don't have to buy a ton of tools and parts to work on these older trucks.

My 2 cents worth.

 

I'm jealous of your geographical location! Arizona trucks are so rust free.......

But, I agree. Running and driving? 2K is a decent price as far as I'm concerned.

 

I grew up in NY so I can relate. AZ is full of old cars/trucks that most people only dream about. It's easy for us to say "find something rust free" but sometimes it's just not possible. Maybe not the best example, but here's what 2k can get you in AZ https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/c...039371051.html IMHO a bit overpriced since it's a long bed (and not a ranger)

 

Sigh....
That's a nice looking truck, and the price is right.

I'd be all over that, if I wasn't already working on the one I've got.

 

Thanks guys for all the input and i appreciate the link, I was trying to find that but I wasnt sure exactly what was supposed to be there. I am in Louisiana so some rust is typical but i do find it odd that out of the whole truck that the majority of the rust issues it had were those support ends so im going to go back and take a closer look. Thankfully i used to work at this dealer in service so i can get access to a lift and take a good look underneath at everything.

I should add ive had multiple fords although they were newer, sn95 with a 302, two broncos with 351w. Still have the 90 Bronco and it caught fire last year so ive been slowly rebuilding that when im not working. So im not afraid to dig in, welding is the only thing ive never done with a vehicle but i know it wont be easy either. Im leaning towards buying it, like ive said ive been looking for awhile and this is the best deal ive seen that isnt a pile of parts or needs to be rescued from a farm. Im not looking to make it a show truck, obviously i want it to look nice but a few minor body issues here and there doesnt bother me. Im buying a truck to use it as a truck, but i also want to be able to think clearly about the purchase which is why i came here.

I really do appreciate all the input! I should also add i enjoy working on cars, and never having anyone to teach me (grandpas died before i was born, dad was a carpenter and not good with cars) I learn by doing. I want to be able to rescue more trucks like this in the future so im hoping this would be a nice one to get started with those types of repairs.

 

The shortbed truck certainly has been bedazzled!!

I'd definitely pull that rubber mat out of the bed and have a good look there. The tailgate is 1964-66 style so likely original. Anything wrong with it? I see a couple of dings down low, but what is that above the "O" and slightly to its left? Take a good look at the front cab supports, sometimes a screwdriver can find crumbling pieces that the eye doesn't see. Radiator core support down low is another good one to check as well as frame under the core support. Cowl area and cowl drains are another area that can look solid if it was undercoated, but can sometimes be hiding problems to deal with. Take a good look at the floors from both inside and underneath. Pull back any carpet or mats so you can get a good look. Rear cab corners can sometimes have issues that a screwdriver or pick can find. Check doors along the bottom edges, if the drains at the bottom of the doors were plugged there can be lower door rust issues. It seems like a decent truck in the pictures, but the center cab brace you would want to deal with correctly. As long as you go in with eyes open and don't let your heart get in the way too much you'll know if you want to tackle it or not.

I'd plan on pulling the cab off to make the repairs easier to get at for those braces.

If you get a pic of the warranty plate I can decode it for you.