I bought my 7.3EX in Aug 2018, and one of the things that has always kept me worried is getting stranded on the road due to lack of fuel to the engine as I've been there, and experienced it a couple of times. I've been wanting to perform the Hutch/Harpoon mod for a while, but have not attempted it due to 1. lack of appropriate work space, and frankly 2. being intimidated with bringing down the tank. I can't get the EX inside my 2 car garage and have a sloping driveway. So, it is tough to perform this work at home.

I am looking to find some help from the FTE folks that are familiar with this work and live in the DC/MD/VA/WV within reasonable driving distance(75-100 miles?) from 20171 that can lend their work space and a hand. I will bring everything that I have and will be needed to perform the mod - Tools, parts, brain and knowledge. I am not afraid to get my hands dirty and I'd like to learn this and help others when in need.

I spoke to a few mechanics around northern VA about this. Either they have no clue/understand the work involved, or they want too much money just 'cos I explained the work to them and they 'think' it will take them multiple days to complete the job due to the complexity. Frankly, I'd rather pay a fellow FTE member in cash/kind and then pay it forward.

 

The X tank is really, really easy to drop. (4) bolts, a fuel line disconnect tool and a floor jack. If I was closer, I’d be happy to help!!

A lot of folks seriously over engineer this mod. I’ve done dozens of them and spend about $20 in parts.

3/8” compression union
~6” of 3/8” tubing
~12” 5/16” fuel hose (30R9)
WIX 33972 filter
(4) fuel injection hose clamps

 

Some coolants will leave a whiteish residue in the area of the leak. Also, consider doing a leak test of the suspected area with the coolant level below the suspected leak. With the engine up to temperature, use a squirt bottle with a small amount of Joy mixed with water and squirt the leak area and look for “tiny bubbles” produced by air escaping, be patient as tiny leaks produce tiny bubbles and can be slow to show up.
Also, while the tank is opened inspect your level/float arm sending board for cracks. This can cause erratic level indications. I think there is a written procedure in the Tech Folder someone has created and Sous has made a PDF of the repair. Good hunting. Hope I’m not getting two threads mixed up in this one.

[img]blob:https://www.ford-trucks.com/2fdbdbf9-5255-4479-9adf-008daec72178[/img]

 

First as long as you keep the fuel above a 1/4 tank you’ll be fine. If I was closer I’d give you a hand.

A couple of tips, I used a floor jack to lower the tank and 2 ratchet straps one on each end to stabilize the tank on the jack as I lowered it. Leave a few inches of slack, lower jack, loosen straps, lower jack etc. Remember once it’s down a few inches you have to unhook tank from plumbing. Once tank is down, mark the tank, collar and sending unit in 2 places, this will ensure that you tighten it up back to the original torque.

Use true fuel injection clamps not worm clamps and fuel injection hose.
‘I used a Racor filter, I also left a loop of hose on both sides of the filter, That way if I ever have to replace the Racor filter itself I don’t have to drop the tank to attach a new hose from the tank to the filter. I can just simply snip off an 1 or 2” of hose and have fresh hose to slide on the barbs. See pic.

 

do you have a writeup or thread with more detail on whats pictured?

 

@KubotaOrange76 you can search the tech folder for a link to the write up. Here’s one.

 

Im with Sky on the over analyze of this project. Also on board with the loop Colorado does..

 

Drop tank (or remove bed) and remove pickup module.

Cut the return line hose hose in the middle of 180* bend and remove the mixing chamber/filters.

Measure depth of tank from the rim of the hole for pickup module. Use compression union to attach a length of tubing to the module long enough to reach the bottom of the tank. I put a 90* bend on the end of tubing so I can set the pickup directly on the bottom of the tank. (See pic above)

Point the (now 90*) bend in the return hose the opppsite direction of the 90* on pickup.

Reach inside tank and cut the fill and vent tubes as close to top of tank as possible. PVC cutter works great for this.

Put the module in tank and reinstall it.

Remove the flex hose from back of fuel pump and the steel line it attaches to. Install 5/16” hose with WIX 33972 between steel line and pump.

I like to heat the hose up a little so i can so I can push it past the ‘barb’ on the fuel pump. ONLY use fuel injection hose clamps. Worm clamps WILL LEAK (suck air).

99% of these trucks do not have an issue sucking air from QD fittings. If you are in the <1%, use hose from filter to tank and eliminate the QD fittings. You’ll be able to see if there are bubbles in the filter.

Ive done exactly this to several dozen trucks. Generally, the WIX 33972 filter will last 100’s of 1000’s of Miles (like the OE stuff did). It’s easy to look at it to see if it has collected any debris or water.

For anything above Stage 1.5 injectors, I will use the RACOR PS120 and dual stock fuel pumps. I also use ISSPRO fuel pressure gauge to turn on 2nd pump ‘automatically’ only when it’s needed.

 

While I greatly respect the author of this write up, I have issues with a couple of things.

The umbrella is a failure point. It will fail again. (I almost never find one intact) Putting a 90* bend on the end of the tube allows the pickup to rest directly on the bottom of the tank. We want this so any water/debris is removed from tank constantly - not creating an ecosystem in the bottom of the tank.

The extension for return line is not necessary. There is a chance of aerating the fuel if level is below the return hose and fuel ‘splashes’ in. But, in practice we see people run their tanks to EMPTY with no noticeable issues.

I use aluminum tubing because I have miles of short pieces left over from doing VO conversions.

I also forgot to mention while tank is out, remove the nozzle restrictor from filler opening.

 

I'll agree it's a very easy task, hardest part is threading the large plastic nut back on but warming it up helps. Second hardest part is keeping the hoses from getting pinched when re-installing tank, taking your time and constant checking as it goes into place will solve that. I'm on the opposite side of the country so wouldn't be much help.

 

thank you sir, i thought i saw that your picture included something different than the typical re-use of stock pickup foot which i liked. I was thinking of doing something along these lines to eliminate that piece, and was thinking of this due to my experience with dodge cummins fuel system setups ive modified.

Thanks for the part # on the wix, you just saved me some $$

Is that rubber hose on the end of the fuel pickup after the bend? just to keep it on the very bottom of the tank?

I plan to yank the bed to get rid of the nasty ghetto fab gooseneck hitch

 

No rubber hose inside the tank.

 

I, too, have done the H&H on an Excursion (and two F250's), and currently have a "too short" garage with a sloped driveway.

Back into the garage with the nose sticking out, and just do the work from the rear while on a flat surface. Even if the entire engine bay is outside the garage, you should be able to manage well enough with a floor jack and ratchet straps.

 

I too will use that Wix filter when I finally drop mine and perform the operation, I see that Racor as costly, unnecessary overkill. How do you insure that the intake 'L' is on the bottom of the tank and just right? OP, sorry, I'm just a tad too far for you to travel but otherwise, I have the perfect setup to do the job.

 

Thank you!


what is this black part made of?