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Hey guys , just got a super clean 2000 f350 DRW 4x4 XLT , with 170,000 miles. Southern truck and has been garage kept so no rust. It has some creaking noise going on in the front end on passenger side, hoping it's not bearings. Was going to check EBP tube and some sensors to start. Then probably a hutch mod to follow. Any suggestions on what else to check would be great. Here she is...
Thanks guys , will get some more pics up soon, haha. I have the auto locking four wheel drive hubs and I think one of them was locked in. The detents have worn off so I can't tell which way I am supposed to turn them. According to the manual they are supposed to be turned all the way to the right but my passenger side was turned halfway to the left. Will this cause a lot of damage? The **** on the dash is at 2 wheel drive
Thanks guys , will get some more pics up soon, haha. I have the auto locking four wheel drive hubs and I think one of them was locked in. The detents have worn off so I can't tell which way I am supposed to turn them. According to the manual they are supposed to be turned all the way to the right but my passenger side was turned halfway to the left. Will this cause a lot of damage? The **** on the dash is at 2 wheel drive
check your vac lines. Mine was stuck locked and I didn’t know it when I bought it.
If don’t know history as already said ALL and I mean all the fluids. Coolant, differentials, transfer case, transmission, power steering flush... check for boost leaks around donuts on exhaust. Wouldn’t hurt to service hubs especially if replacing locking portion. Very few people grease the needle bearings when they’re supposed to. How are ball joints, tie rod ends, etc? She drive nice and tight??
Simple way I remember. Also, I agree that having auto locking 4x4 hubs is a wonderful thing.
Congrats on the new to you truck. I look forward to seeing more pictures soon.
Thanks Sous, I am slightly confused since everything I find on the internet agrees with you but my manual is saying the opposite. Not sure what to think...
check your vac lines. Mine was stuck locked and I didn’t know it when I bought it.
If don’t know history as already said ALL and I mean all the fluids. Coolant, differentials, transfer case, transmission, power steering flush... check for boost leaks around donuts on exhaust. Wouldn’t hurt to service hubs especially if replacing locking portion. Very few people grease the needle bearings when they’re supposed to. How are ball joints, tie rod ends, etc? She drive nice and tight??
she isn't driving as tight as I would like. I'm not the best with front ends yet but everything looks really good, even all the grease boots still look good. Most of those on my other truck (same year) are leaking some grease. Will try to Jack up the front tomorrow and do the ol' tire wobble test. Will have to do some research on the front hub matinence
It unfortunately had a k&n air filter when I bought it. I took a look at the turbo and it looks ok , and no play in the turbo shaft . Does everyone dislike k&n because it allows turbo dusting? Here is a pic , let me know what ya think.
well I feel like the biggest idiot now LOL. I thought it was the circle that moved not the arrow. I can't see the circle or the arrow on my Hubs
It happens brother! Just be grateful you made a mistake on something this simple and we were able to help you out.
Originally Posted by jstihl
Can anyone recommend what the best rear diff oil and transfer case oil would be?
Gear oil is kind of like engine oil. There are dozens of choices and thousands of people that think their choice is best for one reason or another. When I bought my truck, I changed all of the fluids out twice with Amsoil, except the engine has been Rotella T6 since I bought it. I have since changed the ZF6 transmission to Redline MTL and now to Redline High Temp ATF. The front and rear differential are still Amsoil. There is a premium cost involved with premium fluids, but on something like the differential that doesn't get changed very often, it didn't bother me to spend a bit more cash. I changed the fluids, ran it for a couple thousand miles and then changed the fluids again. This way I was sure that most of the differential fluid was good for years to come.
Transfer case I originally installed Amsoil ATF, but have since gone to the X-12 or whatever fluid that is apparently no longer available.
It happens brother! Just be grateful you made a mistake on something this simple and we were able to help you out.
Gear oil is kind of like engine oil. There are dozens of choices and thousands of people that think their choice is best for one reason or another. When I bought my truck, I changed all of the fluids out twice with Amsoil, except the engine has been Rotella T6 since I bought it. I have since changed the ZF6 transmission to Redline MTL and now to Redline High Temp ATF. The front and rear differential are still Amsoil. There is a premium cost involved with premium fluids, but on something like the differential that doesn't get changed very often, it didn't bother me to spend a bit more cash. I changed the fluids, ran it for a couple thousand miles and then changed the fluids again. This way I was sure that most of the differential fluid was good for years to come.
Transfer case I originally installed Amsoil ATF, but have since gone to the X-12 or whatever fluid that is apparently no longer available.
Thanks for the heads up on diff fluids sous, got under the truck today and what I thought was just the rear diff cover leaking, I then realized it's the pinion seal. Just my luck. Is this pretty difficult to replace ? I read a write up on fte earlier and it seems like a pita but it was the posters first time doing the pinion seal so not sure if he was making sound harder than it is...
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