took the trip on a little day trip to the alignment shop. Got new tires and before driving it got the front end trued up... They had a hard time matching Heidt's spec for the MII front end especially on the camber. I told him to make it drive straight, not wear the tires and not pull to either side... only drove it about a mile after, but all seems good

next week the exhaust system... with 10" pipes off the headers I have to creep around now...

 

Just curious as to what the problem was, especially with a camber issue. Are you out of adjustment within the slots for the upper control arm ?

 

sorta, couldn't get the camber to set right without the upper control arms being all wonky... front all the way in and the back all the way out...

 

Good on ya John!

You don't have to creep around, run the tar out of that sucker! Keep the RPM's up a bit higher in 2nd gear and have at it......LOL

Bobby

 

Hey John,
That is one bright truck! Love the look.
Don't feel alone - we just took our truck in for an alignment on Friday.
We've got a Mustang II front end (No Limit) & they said it was maxed out as well.
Seems to be a common issue with these after market front ends.

I'm really glad your truck is up and driving! I'll keep an eye out for you when I drive through Alabama.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

John,

I took mine in as well and got the same story about camber. I also have the heidts. Those guys at first were saying the alignment can’t be done. Questioning if I welded it square. Saying we should put a chain and pull on the frame. Also saying if it was them they would remove and re install the ifs. They never heard of heidts. I was going to leave right then but it was all hooked up and I was pretty much already in to pay. After some him and hawing and some loosing of a arms back and forth it magically got into the Green tolerance. Drives great now. Seems like people just like to talk crap about these old trucks when we eat the cookies!

 

To be honest I would not trust those guys to drive my truck onto a ramp nevermind have at it with tools. If I ever do need to take it in I am blocking all exits to prevent road tests.

 

That story seems to highlight the level of skill of the typical technician of today. All they know is what the computer screen says. They have no knowledge of the theory or practical application of what they're doing. It's either "in the green", or it's not, and therefore something else must be the problem. It's certainly not with them.

I had a similar experience with a DD once. The tech came in to ask if my car had ever been in a wreck. I said no (and it hadn't), it was factory stock. One side was in the red and the other was in the green. Both sides were within .1 and right on the edge of the window, but the tech insisted one side was bad while the other was perfect, because it was in the green. I knew more about the numbers he was looking at than he did. I was having excessive tire wear and I wanted it changed. I told him where I wanted it set, and he refused to move the green side. I asked why, and he said because it was in the green. It was fine. I went elsewhere and got it done right.

 

funny you say that, I drove my truck on he ramp and watched every wrench he turned. I wanted to turn all the wrenches but they wouldn’t have it. Also, both side tierod lock nuts came loose a week later.

 

Ive been thinking about the alignment issues some of you experience and im looking to avoid the same when I install my suspension. Most if not all the manufactures suggest placing the spring hats centerline with the centerline of the crossmember, which put you close to Zero Caster, but my idea is placing the top hat offset of centerline towards the rear just a little bit, that would put the caster in a positive position from the start which could help when trying to get the camber and caster set during alignment . Im just guessing but it seems like the caster and camber settings are fighting each other. When the technician is trying the put the camber in spec he's loosing caster and when he's trying to put the caster in spec he's struggling with holding the camber position. I googled my idea and It seems that there are mixed reviews on doing so, Some installers agree and some say stick by the instructions of the manufacture. I found one manufacture suggesting the top hat be moved back off centerline in order to achieve more caster for the start.

 

Funny because the guy that put the MII front end in my truck said he used a tape measure to get it to where it could be driven. I have driven it a lot since getting it back and there is no wobble, sway or wandering at any speed. Guess he used a good tape measure!

Later!
Mr. Ed

 

See you already know more than most kids working the rack
What you say would be good if it gets you more adjustment where he was or you may run out of. Is there a way to know if you have the adjustment before welding it in?

My stock 81 F100 with twin beams you have to bend the beams for caster & camber, I set toe with a tape by myself and was off a little.
When I stopped by the shop that sold me the tires and asked if they could do the aligment I asked about the caster & camber adjustment on a twin beam, they did say they would have to be bent so I knew they knew what they were talking about. He then said they did not have a way to do this but said they also would not know if it would even need to be adjusted with out going on the rack and he was right.
He said all the right things and why they got the job a few mins. later and I was able to watch and other than toe all was in the green and they got that set.
In my case with tight new kingpins it does not want to return to center easily but he did say it would loosen up and return to center with miles and it has with just the 100 miles so far.

BTW it helps that I know just what all the adjustments do as I went to school for this when in high school too many years ago LOL
Dave ----